Ok, after the question being raised about a year ago, and nobody answering, I decided I might as well answer. I'll attach some pictures although most things will be pretty obvious once you're under the car.
The oil change on an F10 M5 is pretty basic, but there are a couple of tips to make things a little easier and/or less messy. There are also two tools I recommend - one necessary and the other that just makes things easier.
First, if you can find the oil pan drain plug (it's not in any way hidden), you'll know what to do; it's like almost any other drain plug you've ever seen. Unscrew it and the oil will drain. One thing I do before opening the drain is loosen the oil filler cap under the hood; it helps the oil drain. When installing the drain plug it should be torqued to 25Nm (18.4 ft. lbs.) with a new crush washer. The oil capacity with filter is 8.50 L (8.98 qts), 8.00 L (8.45 qts) without filter. The filter housing and cover hold 0.50 L (0.53 qts).
The harder part is the oil filter that is reached from below the car, next to the oil pan. The bottom of the engine block is covered by a metal plate; it's actually a subframe cross brace. There's also one behind the diff at the rear. There is an opening in it to access the oil pan and drain plug and another opening to access the oil filter that is located above the cross brace.
The only real way to unscrew the filter cover is with BMW tool 119240 or an equivalent specialty tool, unless you want to try to use one of those big "plier-type" that grips the filter cover, likely damaging the plastic filter cover, and you don't mind burning your arms on the nearby hot exhaust pipe. I have an Assenmacher Specialty Tool (
www.asttool.com) 86.5 MM, 16 flats socket - AST tool number V410. It uses a 22MM socket or wrench. Almost any generic slip-on filter wrench will be too big to fit through the hole in the subframe cross brace.
One of the biggest problems is getting the filter off without dumping oil all over the top of the cross brace. The filter cover covers only about half of the filter and the filter housing holds half a liter of oil. That means if you just unscrew the filter cover completely you'll dump about one-quarter liter of oil. At the dealer, where the techs rarely have time, the tool of choice to try to avoid this is "cardboard." What I do is after I've drained the oil pan I unscrew the filter cover until the rubber o-ring just clears the bottom of the threads; this allows the "excess" oil to run over the filter cover (and the tool) and into my oil lift drain. I let it drip for about 15 minutes at which time it's easy to unscrew the cover all the way and pull the cover with the attached filter straight down without spilling any more oil. No oil gets on the top of the cross brace. I pour a little less than one-fourth quart of oil into the filter before installing it to help get the oil flowing on startup. I then put 8 quarts in the engine, start it and check for leaks then go for a drive to warm the oil to operating temperature, check the oil level then top it up to full with the 3/4 quart left from the oil I put in the filter.
If you look at the Assemacher Specialty Tool (
www.asttool.com) online catalog take a look at AST's tool number OFAUD1000; it's a funnel with a fitting on the bottom just like the fitting on the oil filler cap. A quarter twist and it locks on the oil filler tube. You don't need to hold it and it can't move; makes adding oil neat and fast.
I'll try to attach a few pictures, although the oil change process is pretty basic -- other than avoiding the spilling of oil when removing the filter.