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      02-11-2013, 02:19 AM   #23
chudak18
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Originally Posted by BikeGeek View Post
Took us about 5.5 hours in my garage Saturday. Your write-up was great guidance.
Good to hear. Wish I had this reference, took me seven hours, mainly bc I had to figure out the rear deck disassembly. Lol pain in the buttox.
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      03-25-2013, 02:07 PM   #24
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i think i am going to have to come to your shop for this.
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      04-14-2013, 04:08 PM   #25
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For the rear springs I have seen another write up where they just removed the rear shelf speakers. Pop out the cover and then the speaker itself and you have access to the bolts that attach the strut to the body.

http://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=628336

Someone also mentioned that this was the method used by a professional mechanic when doing this job on a F10.

From your exerience, would this be easier than removing the shelf altogether?

Last edited by Boss330; 04-14-2013 at 04:20 PM.
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      05-01-2013, 08:02 AM   #26
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I just changed springs on my car (Eibach ProKit), a few things that I noticed:

Access to the rear strut mounting bolts is really easy through the speaker holes in the rear shelf. Just pop out the speaker covers and unbolt the speakers and the strut bolts are readily accessible.

Using a small telescopic jack instead of a prybar to press the suspension down eased up the strut removal process immensely (after the struts have been unbolted).

I did this both front and rear. In the front I was able to "jack down" the suspension so that the lower strut cleared the lower A-arm and the strut came out real easy.

Same in the rear, which also meant that I did not have to unbolt any other parts than the strut itself.

I actually found the rears to be the easiest and least labour intensive part of the job.

Really easy job apart from the spring compressor tool that I used which was an endless wrench turning excercise...

Last edited by Boss330; 05-04-2013 at 03:05 AM.
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      05-03-2013, 10:10 PM   #27
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Great write up and I just had my M5 done from the guys here in the Bay Area took about 4 hours but they've done a few and I gotta say it was a job we'll Done. Sonic MS
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      03-28-2014, 06:28 PM   #28
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What socket size for the point nut to remove the springs from the strut?
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      07-11-2014, 11:49 AM   #29
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Hi hope everyone is well. I have just had my M5 lowered and have struck a problem with the head lights. The sensors on the arms have been checked but no joy. The head light beam is simply leaning lower to the ground and will not light up the road. Im stuck. What do I do?

Will BMW look at it under warranty?
how else can the head lights be adjusted?
is this a natural cause because of the lowering?

Any help/ advice would be appreciated. Thanks
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      10-11-2015, 05:36 PM   #30
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I know this is old but just wanted to say thanks for this write up. Helped a lot doing my kwv3 install.
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      01-09-2016, 12:28 PM   #31
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This should apply to 2013 550 wouldn't you say?
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      01-09-2016, 12:36 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harry007 View Post
Hi hope everyone is well. I have just had my M5 lowered and have struck a problem with the head lights. The sensors on the arms have been checked but no joy. The head light beam is simply leaning lower to the ground and will not light up the road. Im stuck. What do I do?

Will BMW look at it under warranty?
how else can the head lights be adjusted?
is this a natural cause because of the lowering?

Any help/ advice would be appreciated. Thanks
Not sure if you got this issue resolved I think you might have Adaptive Headlight controller issue.
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      03-24-2016, 09:20 AM   #33
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AWESOME! I've been looking and this along with the other link posted from hamandcheese is very helpful as i'll be tackling on my KWV1 coilover install. BTW, any torque settings on any of the bolts when putting them back on?
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      05-23-2016, 04:35 PM   #34
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Excellent write up... Essentially identical to the F01 install.. minus the EDC plugs on top..

I hated life doing the rear... but unfortunately... I think I have a pinched wire somewhere... "EDC malf."

Clean car man!!
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      06-21-2016, 09:40 PM   #35
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will be using this soon. wonder if op is still around this board..
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      06-22-2016, 09:54 PM   #36
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Question about the rear strut assembly, if you don't/shouldn't remove the wire from the top bolt, how do you get the nut out and eventually the top hat to get the spring off?
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      08-24-2016, 03:03 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Day Laborer View Post
What socket size for the point nut to remove the springs from the strut?
Do we know the socket size needed now ?
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      08-31-2016, 04:51 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clubcsl View Post
Do we know the socket size needed now ?
It is 18.
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      09-01-2016, 03:54 AM   #39
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When hanging the front springs becareful to align the top mount with the plasti spring purch, theres an arrow on each- if you don't it will all go together but the 3 bolts that hold the purch have now where to go.

Otherwise its an easy job - just over an hour and I had both sides buttoned up and H&R's installed. Next I will do the back although I am happy with the raked stance.
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