BANG!!! And now I'm stranded in Virginia Beach, VA

[TinCanSailor]

Fantastic!

[1320racer]

Originally Posted by TinCanSailor

Outstanding! I am very excited for you. See if you can get pictures of the tear down and a first start video. I recently returned home after mine sat for 2 months and there is nothing like getting in, starting it up and driving this great car with no worries of engine failure in the back of my mind.

Raza, Mike and the team have an incredible depth of knowledge and a sincere commitment to customer service. Just good people.

Unfortunately, I was not able to get any tear down or initial start pictures or videos. I received the vehicle several weeks ago and all is well thus far.

I need to drive about 300 more miles and then the break-in oil change is due at 1200 miles. Mike, the General Manager at RK Autowerks, has always been very responsive to my emails and calls. He suggested that in Maryland, I should use 5W-40 or 5W-50 synthetic motor oil due to the cool winter temperatures. He mentioned, that in Texas, they use 15W-50 because of the higher temps.

Update: NAPA has a sale on Mobile 1 Full Synthetic 5w-50 at $5.99/quart.

Per RK Autowerks recommendation, my driving for the first 1200 miles has been gentle with no consistent periods of the same rpm. I have kept my rpms below 4200 rpms and have not gone beyond 1/2 throttle.

Now I’m looking forward to an early spring and hopefully getting out to meet others from the forum.

Let me know if any of you are interested in renting an airport in the DMV region for roll races.

If this works out to be an annual event, I want this to become a fundraiser for cancer research.

[TinCanSailor]

Mike, Raza and the RK team still take time to chat back on occasion. I've got nothing but high praises for RKAutowerks

In a few hundred miles you are going to have the best ownership experience possible. I am looking forward to hear more about your progress in the days, weeks and years ahead.

[brawley]

Man, just went through this exact process, and then some. Long story short, diff mount broke, damaged diff, axles, drive shaft and gas tank. 2 months later, I have it back and doing my 1200 mile break in period. Total cost, $16k from a dealer. My cost, $500 for insurance deductible.

[1320racer]

Originally Posted by brawley

Man, just went through this exact process, and then some. Long story short, diff mount broke, damaged diff, axles, drive shaft, and gas tank. 2 months later, I have it back and doing my 1200 mile break-in period. Total cost, is $16k from a dealer. My cost, $500 for insurance deductible.

I am so glad Brawley that things worked out for you as well. I will do some searching on the forum to see if you’ve listed more details of your vehicles recent story as well as list your warranty company.

I just changed my oil for the break-in service and I’m just over 1300 miles now. I’m honestly afraid to go much beyond 1/2 throttle as the new AS4 Michelin rear tires just spin due to the frigid air temps. Today’s high temperature is only 29 degrees Fahrenheit. Supposedly, late next week, the forecast indicates the mid 50s so I hope to stab the throttle a few times then.

I’m thinking about sending the oil to be tested for the first few oil changes. I’m just curious what they’ll find. With the new motor, it was nice not needing to top off the oil during the break-in. The oil level indicator remains completely full. The original motor drank nearly an entire quart every 850 miles when driven modestly, and swallowed an entire quart every 700-750 miles if driven aggressively.

Be safe and enjoy your M5.

[1320racer]

I'm afraid I may have an issue with my new motor. When beyond half throttle, I get a code for random misfires and specific codes for misfires on cylinders 1, 3, and 4.

I have cleared the codes multiple times but eventually, when beyond half throttle, I receive the same error codes… random misfire and misfires on cylinders 1, 3, and 4.

The new motor did have new plugs and coils installed and now has 9,200 miles. Any suggestions or ideas would be appreciated before I change the plugs and move the coils?

I have been looking but have not found similar scenarios on other F10 M5s. Is a code typically seen when the HPFP is failing?

[M5_Raz]

Have you checked the injectors?

[1320racer]

Good idea! Unfortunately, my scanner is too low-end to test the injectors. I’m wondering if HPFP is failing on bank 1 (cylinders 1-4).

Bosch Fuel Pump; HPFP on Engine
2013 BMW M5 4.4L V8 (S63B44B)
P/N: BS-13518604232
$131

https://www.autohausaz.com/cart

[M5Rick]

Originally Posted by 1320racer

Good idea! Have tried but my scanner is to low end to test. I’m wondering if HPFP is failing.

Bosch Fuel Pump; HPFP on Engine
2013 BMW M5 4.4L V8 (S63B44B)
P/N: BS-13518604232
$131

https://www.autohausaz.com/cart

If ancillaries like the HPFP were moved from your spent PU as they probably were then it's possible that it may be failing.

[1320racer]

The problem with my engine not running correctly has been found and the issue has been easily resolved.

As I lifted my plastic engine cover to begin the process of changing the plugs and coils again, I noticed the hose clamp at the passenger side turbo had slid backward and off the charge hose. I re-installed the hose clamp at the turbo inlet and the engine runs normally again.

Take care and have a great weekend everyone!

[mwat]

What a wild ride of a thread, I enjoyed reading it.
Good to hear all is well now. I got some good insight on dealing with private warranty companies.

[TinCanSailor]

Man so glad to hear ya got it pinned down. How has the last week been?

[1320racer]

Originally Posted by TinCanSailor

Man so glad to hear ya got it pinned down. How has the last week been?

I was back in Virginia Beach, VA with family and friends for a few days. We had some really fun times this trip.

[1320racer]

Hoping you are all well.

I’ve been away from the forum for a bit. I am chiming in with a general update after installing new rotors and pads, courtesy of FPC Euro’s lifetime warranty.

I have driven over 38,000 miles and the rebuilt motor continues to run well and uses no oil. I no longer experience “finicky” drivetrain errors do to plugs or coils. I have not needed to replaced plugs and coils, which is often recommended every 10-15k miles, when running a tune.

So far my stage 1 tune with downpipes has been enough fun me. I am reluctant to let others drive the car. Even when the road is warm and dry, I feel accelerating aggressively below 60 mph is very often a handful.

When not traction limited, and with a Density Altitude (DA) at or below 2,500 feet, the vehicle runs an okay 1/4 mile time. Unfortunately, our F10 M5s are not designed to launch well. The majority of 1/4 mile runs I manage are between 11.5-11.9 seconds between 124-127 mph. My best 1/4 mile pass so far is 11.2 seconds at 129 mph.

It is spring break here in Maryland this week and I hope the weather cooperates to allow me to check the suspension, motor and trans mounts and, replace the rear differential fluid. It is time to enjoy some road trips and maybe go to a few tracks.

[TinCanSailor]

Originally Posted by 1320racer

Hoping you are all well.

I’ve been away from the forum for a bit. I am chiming in with a general update after installing new rotors and pads, courtesy of FPC Euro’s lifetime warranty.

I have driven over 38,000 miles and the rebuilt motor continues to run well and uses no oil. I no longer experience “finicky” drivetrain errors do to plugs or coils. I have not needed to replaced plugs and coils, which is often recommended every 10-15k miles, when running a tune.

So far my stage 1 tune with downpipes has been enough fun me. I am reluctant to let others drive the car. Even when the road is warm and dry, I feel accelerating aggressively below 60 mph is very often a handful.

When not traction limited, and with a Density Altitude (DA) at or below 2,500 feet, the vehicle runs an okay 1/4 mile time. Unfortunately, our F10 M5s are not designed to launch well. The majority of 1/4 mile runs I manage are between 11.5-11.9 seconds between 124-127 mph. My best 1/4 mile pass so far is 11.2 seconds at 129 mph.

It is spring break here in Maryland this week and I hope the weather cooperates to allow me to check the suspension, motor and trans mounts and, replace the rear differential fluid. It is time to enjoy some road trips and maybe go to a few tracks.

Great to hear the update and sincerely glad to know the car has been on its best behavior.

I am considering CF driveshaft and forged axles to help with the durability of the car when it comes to launching.

Post up some track shots or video.

[1320racer]

I have an axel seal leak causing the gear oil in the differential to run low and overheat. The diff still kind of works but it is noisy and clunky. I sourced a used differential and it goes in this week. I am also installing new motor mounts and doing a DCT transmission service.

Some of the Parts:
Use differential with 41,000 miles
Seals for axles
Pinion seal (may not be needed)
Differential gear oil with limited slip additive
One time use axle bolts
Motor mounts with associated hardware
Air filters
DCT transmission service

[TinCanSailor]

I had to have the seals on my diff replaced a little over a year ago. It was such a slow leak that it was hardly noticeable. My car sits in the same spot in the garage and no trace of fluid could be seen there by my indy shop caught it when I had the car in for the RKAutowerks diff brace install.

[1320racer]

Originally Posted by 1320racer

I have an axel seal leak causing the gear oil in the differential to run low and overheat. The diff still kind of works but it is noisy and clunky. I sourced a used differential and it goes in this week. I am also installing new motor mounts and doing a DCT transmission service.

Some of the Parts:
Use differential with 41,000 miles
Seals for axles
Pinion seal (may not be needed)
Differential gear oil with limited slip additive
One time use axle bolts
Motor mounts with associated hardware
Air filters
DCT transmission service

It appears the noises and clunky feeling from my drivetrain is not all from the differential. My transmission is not slipping but is noisy and seems to shift very hard into most even gears…
First to second gear, hard shift
Second to third gear, shift seems normal
Third to fourth gear, hard shift
Fourth to fifth gear, shift seems normal
Fifth to sixth gear, hard shift
Sixth to seventh gear, I will need to check

Question:
Does anyone have suggestions for a reputable DCT transmission rebuilder? I believe I only want OEM clutches. I’ve read there can be issues with a good number of higher performance clutches…or have things changed and there’s now a great upgrade at a reasonable price?

[TinCanSailor]

My Deka clutch experience has been an expensive waste of time and money so far. I am back to factory and plan on tuning the car to perform in a manner not to exceed the oem clutches

[1320racer]

Any input would be appreciated…

Ive been away for a few months, last week my rear differential was swapped with a low mileage used diff. Unfortunately, my car is now indicating there’s a drivetrain error. I am waiting to hear what the exact code/error is but I believe they need to remove the electrical component from the original diff and place it on the new used diff.

Or, maybe they can possibly clone the original electrical e—differential component part by programming.????

[M5Rick]

Originally Posted by 1320racer

Any input would be appreciated…

Ive been away for a few months, last week my rear differential was swapped with a low mileage used diff. Unfortunately, my car is now indicating there’s a drivetrain error. I am waiting to hear what the exact code/error is but I believe they need to remove the electrical component from the original diff and place it on the new used diff.

Or, maybe they can possibly clone the original electrical e—differential component part by programming.????

I heard this too that it's not a direct swap with the electric bit needed from the original worn out diff, why its like this is just silly.

[1320racer]

The installer spent almost 2 hours programming to remove the errors. They didn’t charge me for that time since they’d been told/suggested to just swap the electrical part. I will check but it may be a servo within the e-differential.