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      06-18-2014, 05:40 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by Tylerstar View Post
Im using the Jb4 firmware. I have the N63-2 model, is there any difference?
I have the new firmware on my M5 and M6 but using JB3 on M5. As for the M6 Im using JB4 with stage 2 board plus firmware that terry had me upload. The JB4 is for using the meth integration.

I still have my other board incase my methanol pump goes out for some reason I can swap boards and set up JB3 again for 5lb boost increase. All I have to do is unhook fuse that goes to pump for safety measures and keep on rollin.
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      06-18-2014, 05:57 PM   #46
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Thank you sir.
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      06-21-2014, 07:38 AM   #47
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Can anyone tell me if the resonator delete along with turner axle back will give me any more sound than the turner alone? Also if I have both resonators and cats removed will I get code lights? The car is still just too quiet with turner alone. I need to do more. Advise ??
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      06-21-2014, 08:34 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mbmw5
Can anyone tell me if the resonator delete along with turner axle back will give me any more sound than the turner alone? Also if I have both resonators and cats removed will I get code lights? The car is still just too quiet with turner alone. I need to do more. Advise ??
Yes. Deeper and a bit More volume. I have res delete and love it.
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      06-21-2014, 09:10 AM   #49
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Originally Posted by Mbmw5 View Post
Can anyone tell me if the resonator delete along with turner axle back will give me any more sound than the turner alone? Also if I have both resonators and cats removed will I get code lights? The car is still just too quiet with turner alone. I need to do more. Advise ??
If I was you I would do DPs and leave resonator alone. My M6 has DPs catless and straight pipe in the back basically cut mufflers off. It's perfect crazy loud when kicking it and comfortable ride when cruising. Even at idle you can hear it good. Might drone a bit at low rpm but a couple of gear adjustments you can find a happy medium.
Plus the catless DPs you'll get some great power gains in the midrange where as for the resonator just sound.
Even though mine have no cats they have cat material in rear 02 bungs and I don't have a cel.
Good luck
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      06-21-2014, 05:50 PM   #50
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What spinny said.. It really brings more life to the TTV8. I think M6's advice is spot on, if your not happy with the downpipes then you can also delete the resonators. I was very pleased with the extra growl after deleting them when I had Catless DP X Turner. Not really much louder just a better sound IMO.

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      06-21-2014, 09:23 PM   #51
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Guys, thanks for the input. I'll let you know how I make out.
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      06-27-2014, 01:44 AM   #52
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Ended up running a Gtr with full Asr bolt ons, a tune, and maybe more. It was pushing 700-800hp to the crank. We went from a 40 and everytime he would stay about 1-1.5 cars ahead of me. Maybe some better shifting by me and a 60 roll and I could of reeled him in. I was running full 110 with +3 boost.
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      06-27-2014, 05:12 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tylerstar View Post
Ended up running a Gtr with full Asr bolt ons, a tune, and maybe more. It was pushing 700-800hp to the crank. We went from a 40 and everytime he would stay about 1-1.5 cars ahead of me. Maybe some better shifting by me and a 60 roll and I could of reeled him in. I was running full 110 with +3 boost.
Hi Tylerstar, just my experience n opinion for 110 easily u can run +5 to +6psi. I'm running +6psi with 100 octane VP race gas with no misfire or what so ever n the power is just like super! Just as easily as a proper run in. For those that r running pump gas with 3 or less than that psi, trust me if u don't is OK. There wouldn't be any misfire if u run it properly. U need to let the car adapte to the AF, go to N54forum to look for the method on how to let it adapte properly. Thanks
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      06-27-2014, 01:50 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tylerstar View Post
Ended up running a Gtr with full Asr bolt ons, a tune, and maybe more. It was pushing 700-800hp to the crank. We went from a 40 and everytime he would stay about 1-1.5 cars ahead of me. Maybe some better shifting by me and a 60 roll and I could of reeled him in. I was running full 110 with +3 boost.
Give him another run....
While you're running 100 octane bump it up to 5lbs. Do a couple of third gear full throttle pulls and cruise a bit afterwards. Then park it for a while,Let the car sleep. the more it sleeps meaning ignition turns the more it adapts to the new airflow.
Be patient, after a couple of days and mileage you'll notice a huge difference. And remember the more you run it the more it will eventually heat soak. Be smart as you play save race runs by mostly cruising then let her rip.

As for a meth set up its more consistent and the power up in the higher rpm just keeps pulling doesn't drop at all and best of all doesn't heat soak.

Good luck and enjoy your ride.
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      06-27-2014, 02:10 PM   #55
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Definitely have to re run. This is exactly what I figured, I knew it would take time to adapt to the new boost so I didn't bother. From a 60 I know I woulda tore him up. Definitely gotta get her on a dyno soon .
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      06-27-2014, 02:51 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tylerstar View Post
Definitely have to re run. This is exactly what I figured, I knew it would take time to adapt to the new boost so I didn't bother. From a 60 I know I woulda tore him up. Definitely gotta get her on a dyno soon .
Try 50 mph in 3rd gear, lower the tire pressure in the rear to low 20's and front tires to almost 50.
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      06-28-2014, 12:30 AM   #57
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Originally Posted by greentrbo95gst View Post
Try 50 mph in 3rd gear, lower the tire pressure in the rear to low 20's and front tires to almost 50.
Will definitely have to give that a try, what will lowering the pressure's in the rear do?
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      06-28-2014, 03:43 AM   #58
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Will definitely have to give that a try, what will lowering the pressure's in the rear do?
Are you racing on the track? If so lowering the psi will give a little more grip and that's if you're running drag radials. If your running on the street I would leave it at 35psi.

For example when I have my drag radials on the street I keep psi at 35 but at the drag strip I lower to 25psi. You have a prepped track which the tire gives a little helps with traction even setting your suspension to comfort mode.

As for you doing a 40 or 60 mph roll on the street I'd leave the psi alone. I would recommend a drag radial that's for sure. I'd practice between using 2nd and third gear at both mph and see where the sweet spot is.

2nd gear at higher mph will help from not spinning as easy for the torque isn't as strong as it is down lower rpm. Third gear sweet spot is around 70 or 80 mph.

2nd gear sweet spot is around 50 or more depending on your power curve. Anything lower you'll spin your tires.

Just take some time playing and see where your car performs better.
We have different set ups and power curves so my car will react differently to yours so the things I'm telling you might not work to your advantage.

To be more simple just play with both gears at different mph and see which gear you have less wheel spin and a strong surge.

Enjoy man!
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      06-28-2014, 06:52 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m6beast View Post
Are you racing on the track? If so lowering the psi will give a little more grip and that's if you're running drag radials. If your running on the street I would leave it at 35psi.

For example when I have my drag radials on the street I keep psi at 35 but at the drag strip I lower to 25psi. You have a prepped track which the tire gives a little helps with traction even setting your suspension to comfort mode.

As for you doing a 40 or 60 mph roll on the street I'd leave the psi alone. I would recommend a drag radial that's for sure. I'd practice between using 2nd and third gear at both mph and see where the sweet spot is.

2nd gear at higher mph will help from not spinning as easy for the torque isn't as strong as it is down lower rpm. Third gear sweet spot is around 70 or 80 mph.

2nd gear sweet spot is around 50 or more depending on your power curve. Anything lower you'll spin your tires.

Just take some time playing and see where your car performs better.
We have different set ups and power curves so my car will react differently to yours so the things I'm telling you might not work to your advantage.

To be more simple just play with both gears at different mph and see which gear you have less wheel spin and a strong surge.

Enjoy man!
Just sharing, after I install the drag radials toyo R888 285/20 F, 315/20 R my car just can't spin wheel anymore even on 1st gear. I don't know is bcos the tyres r too grip or the tyres r too wide at the rear? I'm using the stock wheels with it n running 6psi with race gas.

When we race my friends all say my car is just like hopping to the front n pull away. I use to spin wheel even on 3rd gear rolling with my PSS. I'm running it with 32psi front n 30psi rear. Maybe my is a GC so much heavy so compare to coupe which is lighter?
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      06-28-2014, 11:59 AM   #60
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Everything look good for still running 93 octane?

So 4th gear pulls for awhile to help the MAF adjust right M6?
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      06-28-2014, 12:01 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m6beast View Post
Are you racing on the track? If so lowering the psi will give a little more grip and that's if you're running drag radials. If your running on the street I would leave it at 35psi.

For example when I have my drag radials on the street I keep psi at 35 but at the drag strip I lower to 25psi. You have a prepped track which the tire gives a little helps with traction even setting your suspension to comfort mode.

As for you doing a 40 or 60 mph roll on the street I'd leave the psi alone. I would recommend a drag radial that's for sure. I'd practice between using 2nd and third gear at both mph and see where the sweet spot is.

2nd gear at higher mph will help from not spinning as easy for the torque isn't as strong as it is down lower rpm. Third gear sweet spot is around 70 or 80 mph.

2nd gear sweet spot is around 50 or more depending on your power curve. Anything lower you'll spin your tires.

Just take some time playing and see where your car performs better.
We have different set ups and power curves so my car will react differently to yours so the things I'm telling you might not work to your advantage.

To be more simple just play with both gears at different mph and see which gear you have less wheel spin and a strong surge.

Enjoy man!
How is your 60 foot with 25psi? I am cutting better times with about 20-21 psi. My tires were still chirping a bit at 25psi. At 21 I can't sense any wheel spin.
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      06-28-2014, 12:56 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m6beast View Post
Are you racing on the track? If so lowering the psi will give a little more grip and that's if you're running drag radials. If your running on the street I would leave it at 35psi.

For example when I have my drag radials on the street I keep psi at 35 but at the drag strip I lower to 25psi. You have a prepped track which the tire gives a little helps with traction even setting your suspension to comfort mode.

As for you doing a 40 or 60 mph roll on the street I'd leave the psi alone. I would recommend a drag radial that's for sure. I'd practice between using 2nd and third gear at both mph and see where the sweet spot is.

2nd gear at higher mph will help from not spinning as easy for the torque isn't as strong as it is down lower rpm. Third gear sweet spot is around 70 or 80 mph.

2nd gear sweet spot is around 50 or more depending on your power curve. Anything lower you'll spin your tires.

Just take some time playing and see where your car performs better.
We have different set ups and power curves so my car will react differently to yours so the things I'm telling you might not work to your advantage.

To be more simple just play with both gears at different mph and see which gear you have less wheel spin and a strong surge.

Enjoy man!

Lowering the tire pressure on the street helps tremendously especially in our cars with lots of torque and less grip. The last two shift s3ctor events I tried many different techniques for roll racing and the sweet spot for our cars is 50mph 3rd gear and 26 psi in pilot sports.
I use drag radials on the strip and 21 psi did not work for me. It had too much grip and the car would bog. 23-24 made a big difference and I got a 1.7 flat 60 foot.
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      06-28-2014, 03:09 PM   #63
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Strongly advise anyone running the stock 2.2lbs to increase to at least 3.5 if you have easy access to 93octane love it.

Car was happy as a clam doing 4th gear pulls and that 2nd gear 40
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      06-28-2014, 07:20 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greentrbo95gst View Post
Lowering the tire pressure on the street helps tremendously especially in our cars with lots of torque and less grip. The last two shift s3ctor events I tried many different techniques for roll racing and the sweet spot for our cars is 50mph 3rd gear and 26 psi in pilot sports.
I use drag radials on the strip and 21 psi did not work for me. It had too much grip and the car would bog. 23-24 made a big difference and I got a 1.7 flat 60 foot.
Thanks for this, I have been trying to figure out the sweet spot. Do you think it would be better to start off in 3rd from a 60? I find from a 60 the pull is very very strong once it catches grip and I perfect the shift in 2nd.
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      06-28-2014, 07:44 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335iRlz View Post
Strongly advise anyone running the stock 2.2lbs to increase to at least 3.5 if you have easy access to 93octane love it.

Car was happy as a clam doing 4th gear pulls and that 2nd gear 40
U can even do 4.5 if u have access to 93 octane. My 0 problem, we need to let as much owner understanding this as possible so all of us can move to the next level in terms of the power of the engine than there will be a break thru. I strongly believe the S63TU can do more than what others r thinking of.

2007 N54 stock engine with fbo, at the present already can achieve 700+rwhp so why can't our 2012 S63TU technology do that or even more? For me it is only The lag of enough people playing with it so there isn't enough demand for the tuner to explore more to break thru the power. This is the 1st turbo charging engine that BMW is putting into their M cars, I don't think they will put in lousy stuff into the engine like piston, rod or any other parts so the engine should be strong enough to hold more than what others can really think.

Lastly I want to thank M6beast again for his sharing n advice on the adaption methods so more n more of us can understand more about the power level of this engine rather than just worry n stop rising boost level after the 1st round of misfire.
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      06-28-2014, 10:59 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andym3100k View Post
Just sharing, after I install the drag radials toyo R888 285/20 F, 315/20 R my car just can't spin wheel anymore even on 1st gear. I don't know is bcos the tyres r too grip or the tyres r too wide at the rear? I'm using the stock wheels with it n running 6psi with race gas.

When we race my friends all say my car is just like hopping to the front n pull away. I use to spin wheel even on 3rd gear rolling with my PSS. I'm running it with 32psi front n 30psi rear. Maybe my is a GC so much heavy so compare to coupe which is lighter?
It's all of the above but most of all the tires are the best I've ever used for grip. You won't get any wheel spin unless you find some gravel lol. G
Glad to see it working out. Now try burn out mode and see how she takes off! Good luck

Last edited by m6beast; 06-28-2014 at 11:25 PM..
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