Replaced driver's door pull, now switches don't work after reconnecting.

[phillyd]

Hi everyone,

I have a 2013 F10 M5. I got the infamous sticky door pull handles (scratched and melted soft plastic) and did a DIY job to replace the part. The part number is 51-41-7-225-873. I followed the instructions as per this YouTube video:

The only difference is I didn't disconnect all of the connectors that go into the door panel. The only connector I disconnected was the one that goes into the switch assembly with the switches for the windows, rear view mirrors, etc. It's the white one with the 12 pin holes in the video that you can see from 2:27 to 3:18 or so. When I was disconnecting it, I was a little rough and ended up breaking the little plastic rotating bracket that clips around the back of the connector.

I replaced the door pull, reconnected the connector (with the broken bracket), and reassembled the door. I tested a couple of the window switches and they worked, once. However, the next time I tried to use a switch on that panel, a few minutes later, none of the switches worked any more, meaning I can't roll down/up any windows, operate the rear view mirrors, or roll up/down the rear sunshade from the driver's side any more. I then got a "Active Blind Spot Detection Deactivated" malfunction message. I leaned over to the passenger door and tested that window switch. It worked, but when rolling that window up I got a "Anti-trap Function Deactivated" error message. I managed to fix the anti-trap deactivation by doing a reset procedure with the window switch (again, I looked it up on YouTube).

Thinking that the issue might be the broken plastic bracket on the connector housing, I ordered a new socket housing repair kit (part no. 61-13-2-471-237). When it arrived I installed it, and the connector clipped in snugly into the switch assembly, but this didn't fix the issue. I then thought that I might have damaged something in the switch assembly, so I ordered a new one of those (part no. 61-31-9-241-956). I installed it today. No change.

It looks like the problem is with the connector, I think (?) with the actual wires inside the plastic housing. In reading around the internet and forums, it seems that connectors can be finicky sometimes and refuse to work after being unplugged. Maybe the wires were displaced the first time I pulled out the connector and re-connected it?

Anyone here have any experience working with electrical connectors on BMWs? Any advice or ideas would be appreciated. I'm getting a little tired of having to open my door to enter/exit parking garages and I want to leave taking the car to a repair shop as a last resort, since I don't relish the idea of paying for hour$ of diagnostics.

Thanks.

[technician117]

Originally Posted by phillyd

Hi everyone,

I have a 2013 F10 M5. I got the infamous sticky door pull handles (scratched and melted soft plastic) and did a DIY job to replace the part. The part number is 51-41-7-225-873. I followed the instructions as per this YouTube video:

The only difference is I didn't disconnect all of the connectors that go into the door panel. The only connector I disconnected was the one that goes into the switch assembly with the switches for the windows, rear view mirrors, etc. It's the white one with the 12 pin holes in the video that you can see from 2:27 to 3:18 or so. When I was disconnecting it, I was a little rough and ended up breaking the little plastic rotating bracket that clips around the back of the connector.

I replaced the door pull, reconnected the connector (with the broken bracket), and reassembled the door. I tested a couple of the window switches and they worked, once. However, the next time I tried to use a switch on that panel, a few minutes later, none of the switches worked any more, meaning I can't roll down/up any windows, operate the rear view mirrors, or roll up/down the rear sunshade from the driver's side any more. I then got a "Active Blind Spot Detection Deactivated" malfunction message. I leaned over to the passenger door and tested that window switch. It worked, but when rolling that window up I got a "Anti-trap Function Deactivated" error message. I managed to fix the anti-trap deactivation by doing a reset procedure with the window switch (again, I looked it up on YouTube).

Thinking that the issue might be the broken plastic bracket on the connector housing, I ordered a new socket housing repair kit (part no. 61-13-2-471-237). When it arrived I installed it, and the connector clipped in snugly into the switch assembly, but this didn't fix the issue. I then thought that I might have damaged something in the switch assembly, so I ordered a new one of those (part no. 61-31-9-241-956). I installed it today. No change.

It looks like the problem is with the connector, I think (?) with the actual wires inside the plastic housing. In reading around the internet and forums, it seems that connectors can be finicky sometimes and refuse to work after being unplugged. Maybe the wires were displaced the first time I pulled out the connector and re-connected it?

Anyone here have any experience working with electrical connectors on BMWs? Any advice or ideas would be appreciated. I'm getting a little tired of having to open my door to enter/exit parking garages and I want to leave taking the car to a repair shop as a last resort, since I don't relish the idea of paying for hour$ of diagnostics.

Thanks.

Have you checked fuses and relays?

[phillyd]

technician117 If it were a fuse issue, wouldn't the car-wide circuit subsystem for that specific fuse not work? For example, when I use this fuse map for the F10: https://fuse-box.info/bmw/bmw-5-seri...uses-and-relay

and look for fuses related to windows I see fuses 7, 8, 9, 17, 18, and 32 listed.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but if any of those fuses were burnt out then none of the windows would work, right? It wouldn't just be a driver's side switch issue.

[spielnicht]

Had the same issue recently when I replaced my door handle. Turned out the rear window lockout button was stuck because the felt on the rear of the switch was pushing the whole switch assembly forward. Check that.

[phillyd]

Originally Posted by spielnicht

Had the same issue recently when I replaced my door handle. Turned out the rear window lockout button was stuck because the felt on the rear of the switch was pushing the whole switch assembly forward. Check that.

Checked it again, that particular switch isn't stuck. The rear view mirror adjustment switches and rear sunshade switch also don't work anyway, so it's not just the window switches. Thanks for the suggestion though.

[AlisterB]

I would have a close look at the connector and ensure all the pins are correctly seated in the housing.

[technician117]

Originally Posted by phillyd

technician117 If it were a fuse issue, wouldn't the car-wide circuit subsystem for that specific fuse not work? For example, when I use this fuse map for the F10: https://fuse-box.info/bmw/bmw-5-seri...uses-and-relay

and look for fuses related to windows I see fuses 7, 8, 9, 17, 18, and 32 listed.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but if any of those fuses were burnt out then none of the windows would work, right? It wouldn't just be a driver's side switch issue.

I agree that you would think more stuff wouldn't work. That said, it's electrical diag 101. Check fuses and connections before moving on to more detailed diagnosis. It won't take long. Also, there might be a door module. Some cars have them. They control everything in/out of the door. If that fuse is blown, you won't get power to the switch.

If you don't want to dig for fuses but you have the switch readily available to remove, you can probe for power at the connector.

[phillyd]

Update on this: I gave up and took the car to my local shop, down the street from me. I get a call 20 minutes later to tell me that both the old and new switch panels work fine. They reassembled the door panel and car was ready to go 10 minutes later.

Don't know where I goofed up here , but I'm guessing it was something dumb like not seating the connector deep enough into the switch panel.

[rockyfeller]

I think it must have been something simple like bent pins in the connector. That's all.

[denflyads]

I have the same issue now... Just did the door handle fix yesterday, and also broke the little bracket...windows worked fine until this morning when I drove some 50 miles. I arrived, turned windows down and they just stopped...luckily the key fob window closing works still...(just not on the mirror). Must be that it unseated a bit during the ride. Will have to look tomorrow or so.. if anyone else has an idea (besides bringing it to the stealer)

Cheers,

Dennis

[SuperF10]

Originally Posted by denflyads

I have the same issue now... Just did the door handle fix yesterday, and also broke the little bracket...windows worked fine until this morning when I drove some 50 miles. I arrived, turned windows down and they just stopped...luckily the key fob window closing works still...(just not on the mirror). Must be that it unseated a bit during the ride. Will have to look tomorrow or so.. if anyone else has an idea (besides bringing it to the stealer)

Cheers,

Dennis

Same problem here. Just did the door handle trim replacement and the switches all worked fine for a day. Now none of them are working. I’m pretty sure the connector is fine because it clipped back to where it was supposed to. I guess I’m going to have to take the door panel back off.

[denflyads]

So, for me it was the connector that clips in....the actual connector that is inside this CLIP and now does not make good contact. I had initially replaced this CLIP connector with another but I now left out the "CLIP" connector and directly connected the black connector with the wires to the pins. Now it works like a charm.
It is difficult to get out again as the CLIP connector would aid that but I am assuming I will not be taking it out any time soon.

Cheers,

Dennis

[Jcosta]

Originally Posted by denflyads

So, for me it was the connector that clips in....the actual connector that is inside this CLIP and now does not make good contact. I had initially replaced this CLIP connector with another but I now left out the "CLIP" connector and directly connected the black connector with the wires to the pins. Now it works like a charm.
It is difficult to get out again as the CLIP connector would aid that but I am assuming I will not be taking it out any time soon.

Cheers,

Dennis

THIS IS THE ANSWER! I had the same exact issue that everyone is describing when replacing the door trim. I broke the little bracket on the clip, and when I clipped it back in, none of the switches worked (windows +mirrors). After messing with if for a while, I noticed that the only way the switches would work is if I placed significant pressure on the clip while it was seated. It seems that without that bracket, there is not enough pressure on the clip for it to seat correctly. Per Dennis, I used a screwdriver to break the CLIP open to get to the black connector directly. I then plugged that in, and boom, it worked. Thanks Dennis! Hopefully others don't break the CLIP bracket, but if they do, this is the answer to fix it.

[Spur1]

IT WORKS !! : I changed the melted door handle on my 535i after watching Youtube and buying the part. Reassembled everything only to find the windows would not move up and down, nor the wing mirrors. Took the door card off once more and tried forcing the connector in and other options without success. Read the Bimmerfest posts and breaking the small connector housing seemed dramatic, was this the solution ? ,... YES !! Do not be afraid this is a brilliant fix . Thanks Dennis.

[M5Rick]

Why has it have to be such a run-around at what should be a simple fix.