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      08-21-2020, 07:11 AM   #1
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Exhaust manifold leak confirmed by Indy and BMW dealer

Many have been extremely helpful and I have not even been on this forum long. Thanks in advance for any advice that's offered!

What else should be replaced (or looked at closely) while the engine is taken apart to replace both exhaust manifold gaskets. Maybe I should start a go fund me page for two w.4 turbos / Pure Turbos and two 200 cell down pipes

AKTIV Automotive and BMW of Silver Spring have arrived at the same conclusion. My M5 has an exhaust manifold leak on the US passenger side. The estimates include parts, labor and shop fees to replace both passenger and diver side exhaust manifold gaskets.
AKTIV Automotive: ~$1,550 - $250 (Concord payment) = $1,300
BMW Dealer: ~$4,500 - $250 (Concord payment) = $4,250

CONCORD WARRANTY: NOT A COVERED UNDER CONCORD Vehicle Service Plan, OFFERED $250.00 COURTESY ASSIST PAYMENT Even though it clearly states within my Concord Premium VSP, I called Michael and he offered $250 to assist with covering the cost of the repair.
Here's where it all began (Click Here)
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Last edited by 1320racer; 08-21-2020 at 07:28 AM..
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      08-22-2020, 01:43 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1320racer View Post
Many have been extremely helpful and I have not even been on this forum long. Thanks in advance for any advice that's offered!

What else should be replaced (or looked at closely) while the engine is taken apart to replace both exhaust manifold gaskets. Maybe I should start a go fund me page for two w.4 turbos / Pure Turbos and two 200 cell down pipes

AKTIV Automotive and BMW of Silver Spring have arrived at the same conclusion. My M5 has an exhaust manifold leak on the US passenger side. The estimates include parts, labor and shop fees to replace both passenger and diver side exhaust manifold gaskets.
AKTIV Automotive: ~$1,550 - $250 (Concord payment) = $1,300
BMW Dealer: ~$4,500 - $250 (Concord payment) = $4,250

CONCORD WARRANTY: NOT A COVERED UNDER CONCORD Vehicle Service Plan, OFFERED $250.00 COURTESY ASSIST PAYMENT Even though it clearly states within my Concord Premium VSP, I called Michael and he offered $250 to assist with covering the cost of the repair.
Here's where it all began (Click Here)
Have them replace the cylinder head to head vent pipe. It's a trouble item as it is notorious for cracking. Part number #: 11537843262. It won't take them but 5min to replace as they will already have ever apart to do it for the manifold gaskets. For the price BMW is changing, I would assume they are doing it already. New turbo oil return lines are not a bad idea too of your over 70k miles. And of course CCV tubes if more then 50k miles.
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      08-23-2020, 10:19 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck View Post
Have them replace the cylinder head to head vent pipe. It's a trouble item as it is notorious for cracking. Part number #: 11537843262. It won't take them but 5min to replace as they will already have ever apart to do it for the manifold gaskets. For the price BMW is changing, I would assume they are doing it already. New turbo oil return lines are not a bad idea too of your over 70k miles. And of course CCV tubes if more then 50k miles.
Thanks for providing very helpful advice and for including the part number too!
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      08-24-2020, 07:04 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck View Post
Have them replace the cylinder head to head vent pipe. It's a trouble item as it is notorious for cracking. Part number #: 11537843262. It won't take them but 5min to replace as they will already have ever apart to do it for the manifold gaskets. For the price BMW is changing, I would assume they are doing it already. New turbo oil return lines are not a bad idea too of your over 70k miles. And of course CCV tubes if more then 50k miles.
Purely from a curiosity standpoint, why the need to replace the turbo oil return lines and what/where are the CCV tubes? Are they the PCV hoses between the valvecovers and intakes?
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      08-24-2020, 08:16 AM   #5
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While on the web I will saw pics where someone had wrapped the turbo oil lines in a heat resistant material ...similar to the top of engine turbo coolant lines. I also read there's a "canister" that is suggested to be replaced when this job is done. I will try to re-locate and insert the part numbers if all turns out to be pertinent/true.


Edit:
I just sent this info to AKTIV asking if these should be replaced along with the manifold and turbo flange gaskets and if so, the additional cost to do so...

Head to head vent pipe
https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-2...uine-bmw-part/ $50
OR alternate source
https://www.fcpeuro.com/BMW-parts/M5...ds=11537843262 $58

Turbo oil return lines
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-8-11427844987 $58
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...14-11427844986 $65
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      08-24-2020, 11:35 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by technician117 View Post
Purely from a curiosity standpoint, why the need to replace the turbo oil return lines and what/where are the CCV tubes? Are they the PCV hoses between the valvecovers and intakes?
The oil return lines have a tendency to coke up (get blocked with burned oil) on hotV engines due to the proximity of the oil return lines to the exhaust manifolds. This is less of a problem on the M5 as most M5's are not condemned to grocery-getter/daily driver routines that subjects the entire system to extreme temps then the n63 in a 550i or X5 but it still can happen so it's as a purely preventive maintenance. It will add about 150 dollars in parts and nearly no labor since the turbos are already out. Should however down the road they get blocked/cokedup, it would cost 1 to 2k in labor to replace so why I mentioned it.

This happened to me on my x5, I was told the turbos were shot as or was burning so much oil (quart every 100, yes 100 miles). Found the turbos were fine, just blocked return lines forced the oil back into the intake. Surprised the engine never fouled out. The carbon builup was extreme, I had to Dremel the carbon out of the exhaust manifold, it was hardened like steel, walnut blasting did nothing.

I'll post up some pics of all the extended heat sheilding I did on my engine later tonight for anyone interested. It made a difference in performance and engine cooling and worth it if you have to take your turbos off, especially if you track/drive your M hard or it is a daily driver in th city (debate which is harder on the engine...) Yep the CCV is what runs from the valve covers to the intakes.

Last edited by Sophisticated Redneck; 08-25-2020 at 01:14 AM..
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      08-25-2020, 01:07 AM   #7
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Below are pics of the heat shielding I added to the head to head coolant hose, turbo oil return lines, engine valley, and turbo heat shields to an N63 in a X5. The S63TU in the F10 M5 is very similar and everything done here will apply.

Interestingly the engine would never dip below 205-210F even with the 90c thermostat upgrade. After I added the heat shielding, I now average 190-195F, and this is in Arizona that is currently 115 out. Link to heat shielding used below also

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YJERW40 (use the non adhesive version)
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      08-25-2020, 05:56 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck View Post
The oil return lines have a tendency to coke up (get blocked with burned oil) on hotV engines due to the proximity of the oil return lines to the exhaust manifolds. This is less of a problem on the M5 as most M5's are not condemned to grocery-getter/daily driver routines that subjects the entire system to extreme temps then the n63 in a 550i or X5 but it still can happen so it's as a purely preventive maintenance. It will add about 150 dollars in parts and nearly no labor since the turbos are already out. Should however down the road they get blocked/cokedup, it would cost 1 to 2k in labor to replace so why I mentioned it.

This happened to me on my x5, I was told the turbos were shot as or was burning so much oil (quart every 100, yes 100 miles). Found the turbos were fine, just blocked return lines forced the oil back into the intake. Surprised the engine never fouled out. The carbon builup was extreme, I had to Dremel the carbon out of the exhaust manifold, it was hardened like steel, walnut blasting did nothing.

I'll post up some pics of all the extended heat sheilding I did on my engine later tonight for anyone interested. It made a difference in performance and engine cooling and worth it if you have to take your turbos off, especially if you track/drive your M hard or it is a daily driver in th city (debate which is harder on the engine...) Yep the CCV is what runs from the valve covers to the intakes.
Thanks for taking the time to reply/explain. I consider myself pretty knowledgeable on BMW's and do all of my own work, but I don't have a lot of S63/N63 experience yet. It's refreshing to see a technical post, and one based on some facts/common experiences.

I will absolutely inspect/service these areas if I have my turbos out or suspect an issue that could be related. Thanks again.
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      08-26-2020, 08:34 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by technician117 View Post
Thanks for taking the time to reply/explain. I consider myself pretty knowledgeable on BMW's and do all of my own work, but I don't have a lot of S63/N63 experience yet. It's refreshing to see a technical post, and one based on some facts/common experiences.

I will absolutely inspect/service these areas if I have my turbos out or suspect an issue that could be related. Thanks again.
No problem, I've been playing with these engines for a few years now so know my way around them pretty well (recently pulled the heads to do a carbon cleanup and mild port and polish job). They are complex as any twin turbo engine that can push a 5300lb tank to low 12s would be... but when they are running right, it is addictive....
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      08-26-2020, 02:43 PM   #10
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Thanks everyone for the great info.

The shop working on my M5 (AKTIV Automotive) called this afternoon after removing the turbos and verified the exhaust manifold bolts were loose causing the exhaust leak. I wish this would have happened during the first 5 yrs / 50k miles.

Next, they had already called my warranty company (Concord) since there could be a major problem regarding the cylinder heads. Apparently they've found dried coolant. I hope to determine if and where the coolant leaked from as I am going to look at the motor tonight after work.

I just did a bit of digging and can't seem to locate our vehicles having this issue on F10/F13 platforms.
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      08-26-2020, 05:33 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1320racer View Post
Thanks everyone for the great info.

The shop working on my M5 (AKTIV Automotive) called this afternoon after removing the turbos and verified the exhaust manifold bolts were loose causing the exhaust leak. I wish this would have happened during the first 5 yrs / 50k miles.

Next, they had already called my warranty company (Concord) since there could be a major problem regarding the cylinder heads. Apparently they've found dried coolant. I hope to determine if and where the coolant leaked from as I am going to look at the motor tonight after work.

I just did a bit of digging and can't seem to locate our vehicles having this issue on F10/F13 platforms.
Dried coolant? Did they tell you were they found it? If it was found in engine valley after the turbos were removed, it's most likey came from the head to head coolant vent pipe I mentioned earlier. There is a plastic y-connection on that vent pipe that loves to crack. Other source are leaking coolant tubes to the turbos.
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      08-26-2020, 11:34 PM   #12
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After turbos were removed we found...

Here are pics after the turbos were removed.

Top Pic
As you can see, the cats are on there way out after 76k miles. A Google search seems to indicate I have 8 years 80k miles of catalytic converter coverage (Click Here). Your thoughts?

Bottom Pic
The coolant seems to be coming from the passenger side, third from the front (cylinder 3?).
  • Vehicle's engine has not gotten hot for at least the last ~31k miles.
  • Has not had engine coolant added since I've owned it, which is from ~45k miles to ~76k miles.
  • I also have not smelled the sweet smell of coolant.

Unfortunately, I can tell this definitely is dried coolant. This may have just started leaking and I hope this not the case. I hope this is very old dry coolant stains and the leak was fixed years ago.


.
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