EGR issue? Loose or cracked hose?

[1320racer]

During normal driving, the engine seems to run well and gas mileage has not been impacted. Error codes after hard acceleration are:

P0305
Cylinder 5 - misfire detected
Status: Confirmed
----------------------------
P1400(10)
DPFE Circuit Low Input
Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve actuator - circuit malfunction
Status: Pending, Confirmed, Test failed since last DTC clear, Test not completed during this operation cycle, Warning indicator requested
----------------------------
P1405(10)
DPFE Sensor Upstream Hose Off Or Plugged
Exhaust Gas Recirculation System Valve 3 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation System Valve 3
Status: Pending, Confirmed, Test failed since last DTC clear, Test not completed during this operation cycle, Warning indicator requested
----------------------------
P1400(01)
DPFE Circuit Low Input
Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve actuator - circuit malfunction
Status: Pending, Confirmed, Test failed since last DTC clear, Test not completed during this operation cycle


I’ve cleared codes and after another hard acceleration, the same codes return. Does anyone have any insight?

I’ve looked, but saw no apparent hoses that are cracked, loose, or disconnected.

Where is the EGR located? I can’t seem to see it and found nothing researching forums and searching the web

Thanks in advance for suggestions!

[TinCanSailor]

Were those codes pulled using a BMW-centric scanner or a generic scan tool? IIRC the first 1000 OBD codes are "common" across all manufacturers above that number manufactures have more latitude on the use and definition. The misfire is pretty clear but the EGR is a little weird. I did dig through newtis.info and although there is reference to exhaust-gas recir; I could find a location on the engine and did not have much luck on realoem.com.

You could be getting some unmetered air or perhaps something like the upstream o2 sensor is getting data that is out of tolerance or MAF snesors are old/dirty.

You can pull the number 5 ignition coil and plug and swap it to a different cylinder to see if the misfire condition follows. If you decide to swap the positions get a good photo of the plug and double check the gap if you are running something other than BMW M plugs.

[1320racer]

Thanks for the feedback and suggestions TinCanSailor.

My vehicle was at a leather shop the last two days and most of the aging leather issues (except the adhesive on leather dashboard) are being taken care of. I ordered new engine air filters and when installing them, I will do as suggested. I’ll inspect plug number 5 as well as swap coils 5 and 6.

Thanks again and I’ll report back my findings.


Update: I neglected to add that when picking up my car late yesterday, it smelled as if the engine was running rich after idling for a few minutes as I spoke to the guy who did the leather work.

[1320racer]

ERROR CODES AND LIMP MODE CAUSED BY A BAD COIL

After disconnecting the battery, and then the MAF sensor connector, I loosened the clamps and removed the engine’s air intake system (USA driver side). Next, I cleaned the inside of the air box and replaced the engine air filter.

Then I disconnected the flip-style wire connection to coil to plug number 5. I tried unsuccessfully to remove the coil from the top of the plug with my fingers and then a screw driver. No luck! It didn’t budge! I recalled watching a video addressing this issue where the tech looped a heavy duty wire through the top of the coil and pulled. After pulling several times, the coil finally came loose.

The outside of the coil was covered a yellow powdery substance, similar to yellow chalk dust. My guess is that it was dried up car soap and water that made its way to the coil after I cleaned the engine.

I replaced the coil and the plug with an extra set and reinstalled everything. After the engine was warm, I made 8 pulls without any errors.

[TinCanSailor]

Originally Posted by 1320racer

ERROR CODES AND LIMP MODE CAUSED BY A BAD COIL

After disconnecting the battery, and then the MAF sensor connector, I loosened the clamps and removed the engine’s air intake system (USA passenger side). Next, I cleaned the inside of the air box and replaced the engine air filter.

Then I disconnected the wire to coil to plug number 5. I tried unsuccessfully to remove the coil from the top of the plug with my fingers and then a screw driver. No luck! It didn’t budge! I recalled watching a video addressing this issue where the tech looped a heavy duty wire through the top of the coil and pulled. After pulling several times, the coil finally came loose.

The outside of the coil was covered a yellow powdery substance, similar to yellow chalk dust. My guess is that it was dried up car soap and water that made its way to the coil after I cleaned the engine.

I replaced the coil and the plug with an extra set and reinstalled everything. After the engine was warm, I made 8 pulls without any errors.

Right on! Congratulations

[m5dream]

Originally Posted by 1320racer

ERROR CODES AND LIMP MODE CAUSED BY A BAD COIL

After disconnecting the battery, and then the MAF sensor connector, I loosened the clamps and removed the engine’s air intake system (USA driver side). Next, I cleaned the inside of the air box and replaced the engine air filter.

Then I disconnected the wire to coil to plug number 5. I tried unsuccessfully to remove the coil from the top of the plug with my fingers and then a screw driver. No luck! It didn’t budge! I recalled watching a video addressing this issue where the tech looped a heavy duty wire through the top of the coil and pulled. After pulling several times, the coil finally came loose.

The outside of the coil was covered a yellow powdery substance, similar to yellow chalk dust. My guess is that it was dried up car soap and water that made its way to the coil after I cleaned the engine.

I replaced the coil and the plug with an extra set and reinstalled everything. After the engine was warm, I made 8 pulls without any errors.

glad to hear its fixed.. stock engine? how many miles on car? r u tuned?

[1320racer]

Purchased car with Dinan Stage-2 piggy back tune and ~47k miles. Piggy back tune, on my particular vehicle, actually made engine less powerful. Search my posts as I have dynos showing this.

At around 80k miles ( I will double check mileage later ) I had a stage-1 tune by tuning tech installed. At close to 90k miles, motor blew from a stuck/faulty injector on cylinder 2. I had rkautowerks do my stock motor rebuild and they were GREAT from start to finish!

Now the car is just shy of 120k miles (30k miles on rebuilt motor) and engine runs like a top.