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      01-23-2017, 04:28 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mister2d View Post
Perhaps it's just that the DFR matches the line level the way it should. The FiiO is an external DAC with preamp and volume controls. Probably too much fiddling to get right while the DFR is just a USB dongle with no switches or controls.
Good point. DFR's digital volume control, microcontroller and DAC chip that probably allow it to maintain its performance in a variety of environments.
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      01-25-2017, 03:17 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by ConsumerFanatics View Post
Good point. DFR's digital volume control, microcontroller and DAC chip that probably allow it to maintain its performance in a variety of environments.
Well I didn't say all that. lol. The FiiO DAC has the same thing. All I'm saying is that the output is probably matching the input level automatically.
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      01-26-2017, 03:40 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by mister2d View Post
Well I didn't say all that. lol. The FiiO DAC has the same thing. All I'm saying is that the output is probably matching the input level automatically.
I understand...the DFR has a digital volume control that acts as a proxy for the source device. In other words, changing the volume on your iPhone digitally controls the volume level output of the DFR. Not sure if the DAC chip or the microcontroller play a role in it working with the car better than the FiiO or not, but those components in the DFR are superior, FWIW.
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      01-26-2017, 03:53 PM   #26
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Alright buddy. I'm not here to discuss any one product's superiority, just the basic principles behind audio. They don't change from device to device.
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      01-26-2017, 11:52 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by mister2d View Post
Alright buddy. I'm not here to discuss any one product's superiority, just the basic principles behind audio. They don't change from device to device.
I'm not trying to tout one product over the other, just stating, lazily, the facts. Apologies for that. Looking at the specs, the DFR has components that are better or I guess more current. Totally get that audio is audio is audio but I also am genuinely interested why one would sound better than the other. Like I said, I don't know if the components are the reason, but could be? Sorry if you think I'm arguing.

Last edited by ConsumerFanatics; 01-27-2017 at 12:07 AM..
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      04-04-2017, 05:36 PM   #28
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Sounds like I'm not the only one doing this with an Audioquest DragonFly. I've got an older 2008 M3 that just has an aux input.

My previous setup was some kind of aftermarket 1st gen iPod interface that was installed by the previous owner. It sounded ok however it kept locking up since I had to use a 1st gen to 2nd gen 30 pin connector to a 30 pin to lightning connector.

Then I started using a Rockford Fosgate all in one bluetooth to aux plug that also had USB charging so I can keep my phone charged. This worked ok too and sounded as good as the previous setup. It let me stream wirelessly to the audio system and gave me ability to charge the phone... it sounded as good as playing a CD in the car.

Fast forward a year and I found myself looking at ways to integrate my headphones with my iPhone 7 since there was no longer a 3.5mm port. I've got two sets of headphones: B&W P7 and B&W C5 Series 2...

So I read and picked up an Astell and Kern XB10 which is a small little bluetooth DAC/ Amp. This worked great with my headphones and was a noticeable improvement over the Apple lightning adapter.

One day out of curiosity I decided to plug the A&K XB10 into the aux input of my car. It sounded like a completely different system. Wider sound stage, not just louder bass, but textured. The sound stage had more dimensionality to it. However I didn't like that the device wouldn't turn on and off automatically with the car and it's bluetooth signal kept hijacking the connections from the cars hands free system when it came to accessing siri or making calls.

So recently I took the plunge and picked up a Dragonfly Red... mainly to use with my headphones when I don't need to use the bluetooth A&K amp. So I tried it in my car... iPhone 7 to a generic lightning to lightning extension cable (so that all I have is one cable going to the phone) to the Apple CCK where I have a lightning cable connected on the lightning port to a USB 2.0 plug in my center armrest to keep it all charged and the Dragonfly Red connected to the USB side of the CCK with a short 3.5mm cable going into the aux input.

With my iPhone set to 3/4ths of max (any higher and I am getting pops as if the dragonfly amp is clipping)
- I'm noticing a nice wide soundstage
- the soundstage is very 3 dimensional
- the bass is very textured, clear, stronger
- It sounds like a completely different system
- hands off my calls and siri to the car's bluetooth with no problems
- With everything tucked away under the arm rest I just have 1 cable coming up to my iPhone mount which passes the audio and keeps the phone charged

My A&K bluetooth adapter sounds similar however the A&K sounds more like a wall of sound and seems to exagerate the bass notes more where as the Dragonfly sounds more balanced and 3 dimensional.

Since I don't want to keep taking the Dragonfly out of the car... I'm thinking of just getting the cheaper Dragonfly Black that I will just leave in the car now. I'm hoping the Black will give a similar enough experience.

Also I thought Tidal on the iPhone with dragonfly can't decode and output the higher resolution files? what color does the LED on your dragonfly turn when outputing tidal via iPhone?
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      04-03-2018, 09:32 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ConsumerFanatics View Post
I'm not trying to tout one product over the other, just stating, lazily, the facts. Apologies for that. Looking at the specs, the DFR has components that are better or I guess more current. Totally get that audio is audio is audio but I also am genuinely interested why one would sound better than the other. Like I said, I don't know if the components are the reason, but could be? Sorry if you think I'm arguing.
I just wanted to circle back on the DragonFly DAC. I just purchased one since I am using a S9+ instead of my LG v20 quad DAC. And I must say that the DragonFly DAC is absolutely superb! So accurate, so crisp, and well defined sound. I wish I bought this earlier. Many thanks for recommending this even though I acted like a knucklehead.

This DAC though... just wow. I have the 1.5 Black since I wasn't sure if the Red was $100 better.

The only thing I need to do is come up with a better setup that charges my phone at a decent rate. As it stands right now, I can play through the DAC and charge, but my phone discharges faster than it can charge.
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      04-04-2018, 06:27 PM   #30
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So one thing I didn’t understand from this thread was whether the HU will play FLAC files off the hard drive, as there seem to be mentions of comparisons of playing FLAC off of USB stick. I wasn’t aware that format was supported.

Is it?
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      04-04-2018, 08:48 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TLK View Post
So one thing I didn’t understand from this thread was whether the HU will play FLAC files off the hard drive, as there seem to be mentions of comparisons of playing FLAC off of USB stick. I wasn’t aware that format was supported.

Is it?
The factory head unit plays 24-bit flac and wav files. I have a bunch loaded onto the hard drive.

What's being discussed here is using an external DAC to render the music instead of the built-in factory one.
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      04-06-2018, 05:21 PM   #32
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When you guys are using the AUX input of your NBT HU's for external DACs:
  1. What do you set the AUX input volume to?
  2. What are you setting your phone/DAC output volume(s) to?
  3. Did you flatten the NBT's EQ? Twiddle EQ on your phone?

Here's an interesting discussion from some time back: https://f10.5post.com/forums/showthr...=media+formats

The remark about there being some static protection inline that might cause rolloff at both ends is interesting? Do you think that's true? Have you done any spectrum analyzer measurements to see if that's the case?
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      04-07-2018, 03:40 PM   #33
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I haven't done any spectrum analysis since that would be overkill. Plugging in the DAC and listening to your music is the easiest method for me.

The B&O system comes alive even though the low end rolls off at about 100 Hz. There's plenty bass to feel under the two front seat subs.

As far as the audio adjustments, I leave my aux volume adjustment at 0 (it's plenty loud!), with the bass / treble controls being flat. I do adjust the EQ slightly for my tastes though.
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      04-07-2018, 08:55 PM   #34
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By 0, you mean at the center tick?
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      04-08-2018, 08:51 AM   #35
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Quote:
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By 0, you mean at the center tick?
Correct. The dial starts at 0 (meaning no adjustment) and then increments by 1 upwards. At least on my car it does.
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      04-08-2018, 06:17 PM   #36
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Still not sure what you mean. You mean 0 bars, or you mean half way filled with bars (e.g. at the center tick mark)? See the pic I posted above out of the owner's manual. Thanks.
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      04-10-2018, 08:36 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TLK View Post
Still not sure what you mean. You mean 0 bars, or you mean half way filled with bars (e.g. at the center tick mark)? See the pic I posted above out of the owner's manual. Thanks.
My car doesn't have the screen from the image you posted. Instead, it just starts at 0 and increases upwards.
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