05-25-2017, 02:23 AM | #1 |
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On going steering wheels issue. NEED HELP !
So, my buddy has a 2012 UK-spec RHD F10 M5 (only 26k miles) and he has been getting a steering wheel vibration for the last month to month and a half. It is to the point where his wife is even annoyed at driving the car so they rarely drive it now. I told him I'll ask the people on the forum for better fidelity and guidance so he can get it fixed for good. This is what he has done so far...
- Changed out to 4 brand new wheels and 4 brand new tires because the vibration was there even with stock wheels and tires. Went to 7 different balance shop and got them road force balanced and all came out perfect. - vibration doenst occur when braking - vibration occurs from 78-85mph. However, the vibratoin kicks in around 60-ish when he drives the car first thing in the morning after parking over night...and then goes away throughout the day, but the 78-85mph vibration is still present. - He's been to 4 different alignent shops and got them done with hunter digital alignment machines - The wheels have all 4 hub-rings, brand new rings, only 3 weeks old. - got it lifted up at 4 different shops and didnt notice any play in any of the arms or suspension components...can't really see the bushing unless you take the arms off. - the rims are not bent and there are no defect tires, except the right side rear, which he will replace today or tomorrow. but that's the rear, shouldnt really cause a bad vibration in the steering wheel. WHAT can he do at this point to get this resolved. - front lower ctrl arms with all bushings?? (thrust arms the samething as lower ctrl arms?) - thrust arms with all bushing? - maybe both, if theyre 2 different parts? ANY help will be greatly aprreciated guys. thx!
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05-25-2017, 11:07 AM | #3 | |
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Quote:
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05-25-2017, 07:33 PM | #4 |
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Yes, the pistons can stick in the calipers and cause brake bind and a shimmy.
Best bet is the take the pads out, one pad at a time and work the pistons in and out, should move freely with a firm finger push not a tyre leave or screw driver!! |
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06-22-2017, 02:26 AM | #5 |
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So far, what's been done:
1- Road force balance-- no difference 2- Replaced tires 3x-- no difference 3- Replace both front rotors-- no difference 4- Replaced both front thrust arms w/ bushings- no difference 5- Replaced both front lower Ctrl Arms with bushings-- no difference 6- Had alignment done to the car 6x, weighted-- no difference 7- Checked the brakes and it is not stuck-- no difference out of options now... any feedback or advice will be GREATLY appreciated!
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06-22-2017, 06:10 AM | #6 |
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Try shocks, if valving is stuck or worn can allow wheel wobble which wouldn't normally be an issue.
Also when you say checked brakes, not stuck, did you push each indivual piston in and out and only need finder pressure to retract (front brakes)? |
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06-22-2017, 08:03 AM | #7 |
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I've checked the shocks with a suspension shop, and there's no play or dmg. I haven't tried pushing in the pistons in and out on the caliper but just spinning the wheel and the rotor, we didn't hear any screeching, or play.
My buddy still have tie-rods to replace cuz some people said it CAN be the tie-rods and also to reprogram after arms installation, which he has yet to do. But, will reprogramming fix the problem? (I highly doubt a software is causing this much headache) My buddy's jsut out of options now cuz after all this, he's down to steering cloumn, steering shaft, etc, which is SHIT ton of money. At that point, he's just gonna get rid of the car...He doesn't want to do that but he's really running out of options...
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06-22-2017, 07:14 PM | #10 |
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This would be a long shot but maybe something to do with the active M differential? It could be locking and unlocking a tire and causing the car to yaw back and forth slightly which may show up in steering wheel. Maybe you could somehow unplug it and see if it doesn't vibrate.
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