05-30-2017, 06:04 PM | #45 | |
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GL Anyone hating on meth. Clearly don't know the purpose of it. If you're - or + 700hp you clearly need some cooling agents for back to back passes or if you are just in hot area as well. What owner doesn't like engine that breathes cold air. Lol. Op. Try putting those jets but spray them inside a water bottle if you are using M1. If you are using boost juice you can spray them leave them out and do a test purge..... - are the jets bad? -are the nozzles spray or squirt? Lol - can it be bad nozzles also |
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05-30-2017, 06:30 PM | #46 | |
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thats a good point, i'll whip the jets out tomorrow and check those too, gotto get to the bottom of this |
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05-30-2017, 09:22 PM | #47 |
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Here are some pic's of the PCV/CCV system, valve location and what they look like inside plus and what the turbo look like from the 'normal' oil mist passing this system. When you up boost you up the crank case pressure and thus the pressure on this PCV system and valves.
If I was keeping my car I would definetly re-route the PCV system through oil catch cans. You could disconnect the PCV valves, blank the open ports on the turbo inlet housings to stop unmetered air getting in then clean the turbo inlets and hoses and houses and go for a drive. Note any oil already in the exhaust takes an age to burn off. |
05-31-2017, 03:17 AM | #48 | |
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This is extremely helpful thanks, and could be a tell tale sign of what the problem is. For the avoidance of any doubt, do you mean: 1) disconnect the PCV valve, block off the air induction side, and leave the rocker cover breather port completely open? to see if solves problem? 2) also the photo of the turbo inlet with oil in it, where you're quite zoomed in i cant tell what pipe your looking in to, if you could point to which one that is my mechanic waiting to jump on it Sorry for the ignorance i just don't want to fumble this valuable advise |
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05-31-2017, 04:33 AM | #49 |
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1) Yes, disconnect the valve from the induction tube/boxy housing and tap up the induction side. Unless you can jerry rig some hose off the valves to a catch bottle or can (anything will do), just don't seal as they need to vent, if you can't jery rig something, just leave them open- do some short journeys and build up the amount of throttle/boost/over run as you don't want to make an unholey mess over the negine or risk a fire from oil on the turbos (unlikely, will probably just smoke a lot - but better safe than sorry) 2) the photo shows the turbo outlets that join to the charge pipes and onto the intercoolers, probably where you have the water/meth injectors? The charge pipe / area in the phot you are asking about is shown as #4 here: Then I have added another photo someone else posted of both turbo outlets to show that some oil is normal and finally I have circled both the accordian hose and boxy induction housing that will need wiping clean and noting the valves to disconnect. |
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05-31-2017, 01:09 PM | #50 | |
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We been talking quite a bit on PM, but just wanted to say your a true gentleman, we have our work cut out now, will report back to you, thanks again |
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06-03-2017, 06:49 AM | #53 |
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UPDATE - FOUND THE PROBLEM
Ok so after a few sleepless nights, we found the problem. One of my meth connections was leaking and sprayed nearly pure meth over the back of the engine then caught fire fortunately it caused almost no damage other than melting a big hole in the breather pipe which i found out has to remain pressurized on WOT else shit happens, see here: http://m5carblog.blogspot.co.uk/2013...ntilation.html its says it particular "In turbo mode (at higher RPMs) it is very important that this path is closed, as we do not want pressurized air leaking into the crankcase, instead of going into the cylinders." So i bought a new pipe for £35, and has solved the problem immediately with no more smoke coming out the back. Now i just got to secure those connections properly, what a nightmare, thanks for all your help guys - |
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06-03-2017, 01:37 PM | #55 |
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Glad you resolved this brother.
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06-03-2017, 04:58 PM | #57 |
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06-04-2017, 05:56 AM | #59 |
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Great news. And luck escape.
Are you using push in connectors or compression connectors (screw on)? The compression fittings are best. If using push fittings,make sure the nylon pipe is cut clean and square, pushed fully home and then pull back to make sure the barbs bite into the hose. Push pull the hose a coupleof times to make sure its all the way home and secure. |
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06-04-2017, 11:44 AM | #60 | |
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Hi bud was using compression but one side must have shook loose, have now actually changed to a high grade (non-AEM) "push fit" and having no problems as of yet |
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06-05-2017, 02:00 PM | #61 |
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Subbing because I'm curious as to what the problem is and the resolution.
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06-05-2017, 03:38 PM | #62 |
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The problem and solution were described a few posts above yours...
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