Time to Rebuild or Move On??

[M5Rick]

Originally Posted by SCD-1983

Based on their website and the vast experience of my engine specialist, the following characteristics are provided:

All King Bearings are specifically engineered to withstand the highest loads and RPMs generated by today’s top competition engines. All King Performance Engine Bearings feature:

“Bull’s Eye Tolerance”. King engine bearings have the closest wall tolerances in the industry, with all shells matched to 0.0001".
Increased Height. Greater rod bearing height improves bearing-to-bore contact/heat transfer and reduces spin potential at high RPM.
Improved Oiling. Mains feature enlarged, chamfered oil holes.
Medium Eccentricity. This enables optimum load distribution and improved oiling.
Dowel Holes. Most rod bearings are available with or without dowel holes.
Narrowed Design. Mains and rods are narrowed for large-radius crankshafts.

They are well known, as well as ACL bearings.

I'm certainly in with the improved oiling, the rest I'll take on word of mouth

[C-dub]

Blaxwil Any updates? Tried to PM you, but your box is full.

[Blaxwil]

C-dub I’m still in the process of weighing out my plans including who will do the work. I’m leaning toward TJ with Pure Performance.

I now have to decide on a stock or forged motor. I’m leaning toward a forged build using Mr. Vanos forged internals. Understanding this will provide a solid platform for anything I want to do later. I have some Pure Stage 2 turbos sitting in my garage waiting for some action. However, going beyond 750hp will require upgraded clutches and I don’t trust SSP or Deka.

So as I type out a reply to you, I can feel myself going with a forged motor, stock turbos and a tune that keeps everything reliable while using the stock clutches.

[lucid21]

I would treat a rebuild like a house renovation project. It will most likely cost more than you think/plan for. Part of it will be, "while we are in there we may just as well also..." and part of it may be discovering damage/issues you were not aware of before the tear down. Too bad you can't buy an engine direct from BMW anymore. Competency of the rebuilder will be key. In Boston, I would recommend German Performance. Good luck.

[MarcF10]

Originally Posted by Blaxwil

C-dub I’m leaning toward a forged build using Mr. Vanos forged internals. Understanding this will provide a solid platform for anything I want to do later. I have some Pure Stage 2 turbos sitting in my garage waiting for some action. However, going beyond 750hp will require upgraded clutches and I don’t trust SSP or Deka...

Hi there. I would also pick option 2.

In my opinion if you are aiming for an all rounder, it's best you kept modifications within reason. Forged internals by Mr. Vanos is a solid option. He is well known and trusted in the UK. He uses arrow pistons and acl bearings if i remember well but it's worth checking his website for information.

The Pure turbos are bigger but the main benefit is the internals of the turbo that are optimised to spin more efficiently with less friction compared to the OEM. Some people keep the OEM shell and only modify the internals with different rotors etc - you get the picture.

Upgrading some OEM elements with better quality-improved after market parts is a vote of confidence for reliability and enjoyable drives. You don't have to go balistic or stretch the motor to the very limit if you don't have to.

Upgrading the clutch with reinforced parts is always advisable when you are modifying this car. However there is a strict process you have to follow as recalibrating the clutch and the gear box is not a straightforward project and there are risks that have been mentioned on this forum time and time again. You have to proceed with caution and refer to experienced garages that know the tolerances and the correct setup.

Good luck mate and keep us posted!!!

[Blaxwil]

Update:

Decided to allow TJ with Pure Performance in Texas so the work. Actually drove the car 10 hrs / 700 miles as I wanted to personally meet TJ and visit his shop. As expected, there were zero issues on the drive. The car drove so well, that I forgot I was going for an engine rebuild. Upon arriving, TJ saw the light blue smoke and also heard a slight misfire. We discussed a few options and landed on rebuilding using forged internals.

I was impressed with TJ’s knowledge and most importantly, the organization of the shop. The build will include:

* Engine Overhaul
* Deep clean and wash down
* Carrillo Forged Pistons
* ARP Rod Bearings
* F10 Valve Stems
* Pure Stage 2 Turbos
* F90 Fuel Injectors
* F90 HPFP / LPFP

This will match up well with the Fabworx Downpipes and Eisenmann Sport Exhause

Will need custom tune to marry everything together while keeping the daily driven concept in mind. The goal will be to maintain reliability so HP and TQ will be well below what the build can handle.

TJ has been great to work with and I’m excited about the outcome. Photos coming soon.

[Blaxwil]

As good as I thought I took care of my car, the engine was a complete mess. After removing the engine, they found evidence of a massive oil leak coming from somewhere. Probably masked by the short 3k-5k oil change intervals I did religiously throughout my 150k miles of ownership.

TJ convinced me to upgrade the clutch. We went with Project Gamma’s clutch that’s rated for 1000+ HP. Holding onto my stock clutches just in case they don’t work out. However, I feel confident for some reason that they will based on several cars that he’s installed them on. Those cars have 5000+ miles on them with no issues. Fingers crossed.

All the work has been done. The car is currently being driven and getting constant checks for leaks and other concerns. It will undergo a few oil changes as a break-in oeriod and hopefully I’ll have the car back within 3 weeks of dropping it off.

[co_pa]

Well, that was quick. Hope the break-in goes smoothly and you've got it back to enjoy as planned.

Looks like you dodged a ticking time bomb!

[SpeedProtocol]

that was really quick turn around.

[Blaxwil]

IKR. I was planning on making a trip next week to check on the progress. He’s been communicating the entire time which has kept informed all the way. Part of the adaptation and break-in period, the car was driven to a local body shop to get the front bumper resprayed. Was sick and tired of the rock chips.

[AHall]

Originally Posted by Blaxwil

IKR. I was planning on making a trip next week to check on the progress. He’s been communicating the entire time which has kept informed all the way. Part of the adaptation and break-in period, the car was driven to a local body shop to get the front bumper resprayed. Was sick and tired of the rock chips.

Did you upgrade the piston rods? What city in Texas is the shop located?

[Blaxwil]

Yes I did. The rods were upgraded to Carillo forged rods. Located in Houston

[KurtsM5]

I'd take it to Solo Motorsports for diagnostics. A compression/leakdown test will tell you if it needs rings or seals. I wouldn't be comfortable with someone telling me "maybe" anything.
The Lawrenceville location has a specialist who's been working on Ms for a long time.
https://solomotorsports.net/

[Blaxwil]

Solo Motorsports does all my work. They performed the compression test then recommended valve stems or piston rings as the next step. Was tired of the piece meal repair and went for the full deal. I will continue to use them for service.

Update -

Car is done. TJ at Pure has been extremely pleasant to deal with. Delivering as promised on everything awe discussed. He’s been driving the car around town for the break-in period. No CEL’s, leaks or issues thus far. Another week and I should have her back home.

[KurtsM5]

Cool, which location do you use?

[Blaxwil]

Ian at the Johns Creek location is my guy. I’ve been to the one in Lawrenceville and the downtown location as well. Each location has a specialist type technician guy. Lawrenceville performed my dyno years ago after I modded my car.

[Ghost_e90m3]

How’s the car running?

[Blaxwil]

Car is running great. Gets shipped back to me this weekend. I’ll update the thread after I get it back and drive around for a few miles.

[M5_Brandoe]

Good luck. I just received my car back from TJ about 3 weeks ago. Best decision i have made. Only have been able to put about 200 miles on it this far. I had went with option #2.

His customer service and knowledge is top notch. He has been keeping in touch even after the car has returned.

[Blaxwil]

I think your car left on the day I arrived with mine. Good luck. What oil did you go with? He’s giving me a choice of what brand 5W-50 I want to go with.

Redline
Motul 8100
Ravenol
Liquid Moly
Castrol Edge

I’ll make a decision soon. Leaning toward Motul but I had so much success with LM.

[M5_Brandoe]

Originally Posted by Blaxwil

I think your car left on the day I arrived with mine. Good luck. What oil did you go with? He’s giving me a choice of what brand 5W-50 I want to go with.

Redline
Motul 8100
Ravenol
Liquid Moly
Castrol Edge

I’ll make a decision soon. Leaning toward Motul but I had so much success with LM.

Haha nice !

I’m doing 5w50 I was thinking the same as you, but I’ve always used liqui moly. Motul 8100 I heard some great news. Think I’m going to make the switch.

[SCD-1983]

Originally Posted by M5_Brandoe

Haha nice !

I’m doing 5w50 I was thinking the same as you, but I’ve always used liqui moly. Motul 8100 I heard some great news. Think I’m going to make the switch.

I’m currently using Ravenol RUP 5w40 as break-in oil and will then switch to Motul 300v Competition 5w50 after the run-in period. All high hp builds here use 5w50 and Motul is a top brand.