03-20-2014, 07:59 AM | #177 | ||||
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Legend 1 = Gear 2 = Exhaust Valve Closed 3 = Exhaust Valve Open 4 = Engine Speed
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03-20-2014, 03:56 PM | #178 | |
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I installed it right away, it took me about 20 min. And indeed, the ExhaustMeister is working! When you push "on" the valves are permanently open. In Idle standing still I hear no real difference since with the CP the valves are already open. But while driving there is indeed a difference in sound. It is more deep and bassy! Especially at low RPM you can hear the more powerful sound when you go off the throttle. At high speed resp. full throttle there is hardly a difference between the ExhaustMeister and stock (in my case CP). In total, the sound is slightly better! At first I was excited! But there is a BIG PROBLEM and I don't know if I'm the only one who recognized it: The ExhaustMeister seems to interfer with the B&O and the Radio reception! While driving and listening to radio I wondered why so many hissing sounds are suddenly heard. And it were the same radio stations I used to listen to. In fact, the EM seems to interfer with the antenna in some way I don't know. And the other sources of the B&O are concerned as well (CD, USB, Online Entertainment). Overall the sound of the B&O is weaker, the bass is gone, the heights are heavily hissing, voices are hardly to understand... the power and brilliance of the B&O is gone. And that's not a problem of the equaliser settings! After all that's not worth it in my opinion. I love to listen to music and I WANT a perfect B&O. And the exhaust sound of the CP with more throttle is the same as with EM, in my opinion. So I can do without the EM and deinstalled it. So, if anyone of you guys wants to have a brand new and fully functional ExhaustMeister, you can PM me. |
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03-20-2014, 08:35 PM | #179 | ||
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03-21-2014, 12:38 AM | #180 | |
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03-21-2014, 12:41 AM | #181 | |
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Update: The inside unit (the black one in the pic) measures : 6.5 cm long x 4.5 cm wide x 3 cm high. There is a little metal cube (on the left of the pic) that is bolted to the aluminum housing. Make sure you take care of that if you want to eliminate the aluminum case. Last edited by MCM5; 03-24-2014 at 02:39 AM.. Reason: Update : |
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03-21-2014, 04:17 AM | #182 |
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In my opinion the grounding was ok. There was another brown wire on the screw as grounding I connected it to. Maybe I try the grounding on another screw but I think this is not the problem.
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03-21-2014, 09:22 AM | #184 | |
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03-21-2014, 10:42 AM | #185 |
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I suspect your problem may be unrelated to the EM.
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04-13-2014, 09:20 PM | #186 |
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Quick question all. I had a 335 a couple years ago and did a mod where you just unplug the wire that leads to the vacuum sensor and it kept the flap open permanently. The drawback was that it would throw an error code that the dealer saw, but no CEL would come on. This mod worked like a charm and provided a noticeably deeper tone.
I would suspect that the vacuum valve works the same way on all BMWs. On the 335, when the sensor was powered the valve was closed...with no power (i.e. with the wire unplugged) it was open. Would seem to me that this is Exhaust Meister is a $130 on/off switch? I have my M5 on order, or else I would try this myself. Anyone ever give this a shot? -Mark |
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05-26-2014, 07:53 AM | #187 | |
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Was this issue with the B&O resolved? Was it due to grounding? Also, As per this thread : http://f10.m5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=814739 (and this post : http://f10.m5post.com/forums/showpos...7&postcount=19), this sounds like a very cheap $5 mod that one can do themselves without having to spend $129. I'm not saying $129 is not worth for this mod as there is too much electronics involved vs the wire, but am I right to assume that one can accomplish the same thing with the use of a metal wire? |
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05-26-2014, 08:49 AM | #188 | ||
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05-26-2014, 09:26 AM | #189 | |
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Anyways, I also paid $120k for the car, but to me if I can do the same thing myself for $5 a) I get to do something to my car myself which is cool, b) I don't waste money. Just because I can afford a 120k car does not mean I'm going to take 20 dollar bills and throw them out. It's just principle I guess. Same reason why I change my own tires, why I get them balanced in Michelin instead of BMW for 1/4th of the price and I put them on myself for free. Same reason why I do my own maintenance (oil, brakes, diff, etc etc). Not because I can't afford, but I just think a little more than the average Joe and calculate things to the smallest detail |
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05-26-2014, 10:42 AM | #190 | |
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05-26-2014, 01:07 PM | #191 | |
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Thanks. |
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05-26-2014, 04:07 PM | #192 |
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There is no chance of damage. There is no motor, the pressure from the vacuum line forces the actuator open.
You can use any uncoated aluminum wire. I got some at my local hardware store. |
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06-02-2014, 03:37 PM | #194 |
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I did the steel wire mod and the exhaust is much louder now (mine is CP). This also proves that this mod (which cost me $2.99 btw) does exactly what $129 exhaustmeister does. I'm glad I didn't order it. It took me exactly 12 minutes to do both exhausts (I actually timed myself) and it was my first try. Removing the panels in the trunk and programming the remote would have taken me just as long.
Now I realize when I m driving down the road, people keep turning back, so it must be much louder than before |
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06-02-2014, 08:17 PM | #195 | |
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06-03-2014, 04:41 AM | #196 | |
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weirdly, my values seem to be open most of the time anyway! I have checked this over dozen times by getting out of the car with the engine still running and they are both open. regardless of any sport or sport+ settings might be engaged. surely they wouldn't then close as I set off again would they? |
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06-03-2014, 05:54 AM | #197 | |
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06-03-2014, 06:47 AM | #198 | |
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