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      04-24-2017, 07:36 PM   #23
Msizzle
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ugh I'm waiting on mine to come in, had jb4+bcm and meth with no issues at all, got a tune and the car didn't go 1 mile without the clutch slipping. In my opinion there is no point to a tune without it
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      04-24-2017, 09:06 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPowell View Post
I have had my Spec R kit (clutches, baskets, etc) since December and I was super anal on the break in. I put 500 miles on it before I went WOT the first time. I manually shifted the car and most of it was done with city driving so I was changing gears a lot. I had ABR here in Houston do the install since they are the SSP authorized installer/vendor for our area. The guys their did an amazing job and had it done quickly, always keeping me up to date on things.

I have to say I went from clutch slip on my 680rwhp setting (4th gear dyno so probably 700+ if I used 5th gear from my testing previously, but I do not like 185-190mph dyno pulls) to none just tire spin in second on the R888s and crisp responsive shifts at wot. I'm going to be going downpipes, exhaust, Pure S1 and Meth sooner or later so for sure needed the clutch upgrade!

Driving around normal in D1 you would never know it had aftermarket clutches in it at all. Kris and the guys/girls over at SSP have made a hell of a product!
Mr Powell, I will eventually go this route and also have Alex and the guys at ABR do mine as well. Would like to see how they feel in person one day if you're ever up for a meet and greet.

Chris
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      04-25-2017, 12:30 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lerxst M6 View Post
Mr Powell, I will eventually go this route and also have Alex and the guys at ABR do mine as well. Would like to see how they feel in person one day if you're ever up for a meet and greet.

Chris
Yeah I am down if I remember correctly you are towards Lake Jackson right? We can figure out a day to meet up. Waiting on my new front tires that should hopefully be here tomorrow because I have an impact bulge on one of my front tires thanks to a pot hole.

I'm interested to hear the AWE in person, wish you had catless downpipes because that's what I think I'm going to end up going with.
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      04-25-2017, 02:32 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPowell View Post
Yeah I am down if I remember correctly you are towards Lake Jackson right? We can figure out a day to meet up. Waiting on my new front tires that should hopefully be here tomorrow because I have an impact bulge on one of my front tires thanks to a pot hole.

I'm interested to hear the AWE in person, wish you had catless downpipes because that's what I think I'm going to end up going with.
Sounds good to me. I'm actually Pearland area just south of 518 and 288.
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      05-05-2017, 10:17 AM   #27
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How much does it cost to upgrade the clutch? Parts and labor?
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      05-05-2017, 08:45 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dk79 View Post
How much does it cost to upgrade the clutch? Parts and labor?
Varies by dealer. Parts labor all vary per dealer.
Like DP install or Intake install lol
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      05-06-2017, 02:44 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by ARC550 View Post
Varies by dealer. Parts labor all vary per dealer.
Like DP install or Intake install lol
Just a rough estimate?
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      05-06-2017, 07:29 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by dk79 View Post
Just a rough estimate?
I talked to two dealers about an install. One estimated $1,100 and the other $1,700, but that didn't include them removing the stock clutch and assembling the SSP clutch before installation.

SSP was good enough to offer to assemble the clutch for me if I sent it to them, free of charge. Since the stock DCT clutch comes as a built unit from the parts department, I'm not sure if the dealer will feel comfortable assembling an aftermarket part for you. An independent shop may be the best option.

SSP has a very helpful 48 page (mostly pictures, with pertinent instructions) clutch assembly PDF if you want to do it yourself.
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      05-06-2017, 10:54 AM   #31
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Parts and labor ~$3500 +/-

For the spec R clutches
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      05-06-2017, 01:58 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Used2be View Post
I talked to two dealers about an install. One estimated $1,100 and the other $1,700, but that didn't include them removing the stock clutch and assembling the SSP clutch before installation.

SSP was good enough to offer to assemble the clutch for me if I sent it to them, free of charge. Since the stock DCT clutch comes as a built unit from the parts department, I'm not sure if the dealer will feel comfortable assembling an aftermarket part for you. An independent shop may be the best option.

SSP has a very helpful 48 page (mostly pictures, with pertinent instructions) clutch assembly PDF if you want to do it yourself.
Can you send me the link please. I plan on doing it next weekend.
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      05-06-2017, 02:01 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Used2be View Post
I talked to two dealers about an install. One estimated $1,100 and the other $1,700, but that didn't include them removing the stock clutch and assembling the SSP clutch before installation.

SSP was good enough to offer to assemble the clutch for me if I sent it to them, free of charge. Since the stock DCT clutch comes as a built unit from the parts department, I'm not sure if the dealer will feel comfortable assembling an aftermarket part for you. An independent shop may be the best option.

SSP has a very helpful 48 page (mostly pictures, with pertinent instructions) clutch assembly PDF if you want to do it yourself.
Thanks
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      05-06-2017, 02:09 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by Mcc420 View Post
Can you send me the link please. I plan on doing it next weekend.
Kris sent me the .pdf file in an email. I don't know if he wants it generally distributed, so it'd be best if you called SSP directly. I can't imagine he wouldn't give it to you, but I'd rather play it safe.
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      05-13-2017, 11:04 PM   #35
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Anyone know how to use the clutch removal tool? I'm doing this now and can't get the clutch packs out of the tranny. I tried texting Kris to no response.
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      05-14-2017, 09:32 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apexlocator View Post
Parts and labor ~$3500 +/-

For the spec R clutches
Better get the billet baskets also, just in case you decide to push the 700-750 envelope. Heat does bad things to the stock units.
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      05-16-2017, 12:33 PM   #37
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You guys are welcome to share the PDF anytime. PM me your email address and I would be more than glad to send you the instructions.

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      05-16-2017, 01:44 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilb View Post
Better get the billet baskets also, just in case you decide to push the 700-750 envelope. Heat does bad things to the stock units.
I heard the basket was not necessary ?
what does an upgraded one do ?
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      05-16-2017, 02:21 PM   #39
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilb View Post
Better get the billet baskets also, just in case you decide to push the 700-750 envelope. Heat does bad things to the stock units.
I heard the basket was not necessary ?
what does an upgraded one do ?
Kris is best to respond to this, but the stock baskets are 2 pieces welded together. His billet units are 1 piece and significantly stronger, therefore no welds subjected to extreme heat and potential failure.
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      05-16-2017, 02:38 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilb View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 550Reasons View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by evilb View Post
Better get the billet baskets also, just in case you decide to push the 700-750 envelope. Heat does bad things to the stock units.
I heard the basket was not necessary ?
what does an upgraded one do ?
Kris is best to respond to this, but the stock baskets are 2 pieces welded together. His billet units are 1 piece and significantly stronger, therefore no welds subjected to extreme beat and potential failure.
Rear diff/bracket snap before his upgraded (non-billet) baskets will break
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      05-17-2017, 08:54 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 550Reasons View Post
I heard the basket was not necessary ?
what does an upgraded one do ?
The output baskets transfer the torque load from the engine thru the drivetrain. The factory output baskets are 2 pieces and are made out of stamped metal. The 2 pieces are welded together, and this is the weak link in the design. The factory does this to save money. We have seen several of these baskets break over time. We tell everyone that is building one of these cars to replace the baskets at the time of the clutch installation. Most of the basket failures we have seen are around the 700-750 wheel torque range. If a basket fails under full acceleration, it could send the engine into free rev and you can easily loose that engine.

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