Spark Plug Change

[kefler]

Originally Posted by djseto

I had my plugs done today under the factory warranty at 39K miles. I asked my Advisor how much the service would have cost me.

$846. Definitely looking for DIY when warranty is gone...

I have a CPO, 25k miles now, and the service records don't show plugs having been done. How do you know when its necessary? iDrive indication?

[djseto]

Mine was CPO as well. The only way I knew was when the car was due for service was via an email with BMW assist telling me it needed to be done. Assuming is was always dealer serviced, you can ask your service advisor, but mine told me the car will tell you when it's needed.

[ur20v]

Plug change isn't to bad or complicated, once you get stuck in its obviuos.

For those who have sent your ECU's out for a tune you are half way there.

Remove filter lids and MAF sensor plugs just for access.
Remove the plasitic engine cover
Remove the torx screw and the pul up on the ecu/intercooler header tank- don't need to disconnect the hoses , just move out of the way
Remove the 2 screws at the top of each ecu and all connectors to the ecus', note you have to start one end first as the clips at the other can only be released when the connect next to them is removed
Don't need to remove the cooling hoses from the ecus as they can now be just moved out of the way.
Remove the bracket that holds the ecus and the plastic engine cover you removed earlier. There are 4 torx screws - 2 each side, then just unclip the various wires (lamda etc) and remove.

Now you can access the coils, lift up and away from the connectors and the connector is released, you may need to pry up gentally while pulling up on the coil using the connector clip -its what it is designed for.

Make sure you have the correct multi-hex spark plug socket BMS do a nice cheap one that has a magnet in it to keep the plug in the socket.

Remove and replace gapped plugs, I gapped to 22.

reverse the above and way to go. should take about 2 hours for the first time, probably an hour once you have the nack with the ecu connectors etc.

Easy really.

Note I have the weeping gasket on one bank so there was a smalla amount of oil in 2 plug holes - I wiped them clean for now - the gaskets will be a REAL pain as all the injectors and high pressure ppes will need to be removed plus a lot more stripping down and wires/connectors to move.

[ur20v]

A few photos so you get the idea - it is quite obvious when you get stuck in...

[TheHouseWon]

Thanks for your contribution, ur20v!

[ur20v]

I will post a tool list (just need to get the torx sizes) but here the short list:

2 torx sizes of screw driver or allen key
Flat blade screw driver
3/8 Rachet
6" 3/8 extension
14mm Multi hex plug socket ( http://www.burgertuning.com/N54_BMW_...t_adapter.html )
Small pry bar to help lift the coils

I didn't take any photos of the indivdual coils etc as they are easy to see when you swing the ecu's out of the way - you can do three plugs each side then need to move the ecu again.

Hardest part is dealing with the electrical connectors for the ecus but just take your time (note one you have release the ecu connectors you have to release each cable from the black plastic ecu holders.

Just get stuck in - I have done a lot harder plug changes!!

[allmotor_2000]

Don't need to remove all that stuff. I posted a DIY... 45 mins tops

[ur20v]

I agree you can cut corners and get below an hour Allroad - BUT for the first time its easier to remove so you can see what you are doing and not fighting the ecu's etc.

Last thing you want to do is cross thread a plug plus the first time the plugs are changed the coils tend to be 'stuck' in the head and need some easing.

[ur20v]

I wasn't having problems but changing the plugs and coils has made the engine reall smooth, its quite a difference that I wasn't expecting but appreciate none the less.

[Demon Barber]

Can someone please provide me with the oem spark plug gap and torque values, as I am planning on doing this job myself one night this week. I have all the tools needed, just need to be sure of the values. I know plugs should come pregapped, but I never trust them.

Thank so much guys.

[ur20v]

If your tuned go with a 18-22 gap, I went 22.

As for torque I just bottomed the plugs on their gaskets by hand then did a 1/4 turn to slighly crush the gasket but that comes from experience- if you are unsure the torque setting is 23 nm or 24 ft pounds.

Just make sure you have th correct spark plug multi hex tool.

[TrevorM3]

would OEM plugs be ok to gap if tuned? or should i go a different direction and get different plugs.

AA Piggyback here. Car is running fine with it, just in case...

[KMORGSM5]

Originally Posted by TrevorM3

would OEM plugs be ok to gap if tuned? or should i go a different direction and get different plugs.

AA Piggyback here. Car is running fine with it, just in case...

Trevor,

i think you are fine. What boost are you running with your piggy?

My stock ones have been fine on 23psi

[mister2d]

Originally Posted by ur20v

If your tuned go with a 18-22 gap, I went 22.

As for torque I just bottomed the plugs on their gaskets by hand then did a 1/4 turn to slighly crush the gasket but that comes from experience- if you are unsure the torque setting is 23 nm or 24 ft pounds.

Just make sure you have th correct spark plug multi hex tool.

Sounds like he's unsure.

By the way, 23 Nm does not equal 24 ft-lb. This is wrong info and could lead him or others to screw up their car.

[allmotor_2000]

You guys need to wander over to the DIY section. I did a write-up for plugs...

[SERBM5]

So Ecu Tuned,down pipes, and intakes. M5 F10 Gap @ 22 ?

[VADER332]

Originally Posted by ur20v

If your tuned go with a 18-22 gap, I went 22.

As for torque I just bottomed the plugs on their gaskets by hand then did a 1/4 turn to slighly crush the gasket but that comes from experience- if you are unsure the torque setting is 23 nm or 24 ft pounds.

Just make sure you have th correct spark plug multi hex tool.

23nm is equal to 16.96 ft pounds.

[TheHouseWon]

Originally Posted by TheHouseWon

12120035531 = ngk 5992 1 step colder.

12120039634 = Stock

12120039664 = Ngk 97506 2 steps colder

DIY by allmotor:

http://f10.m5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1316336

Just consolidating info on this. Make sure you verify before doing it! 23 nm or 17 lb/ft for torque specs. Gap at .018-.022

I'm gonna get 'stuck in', as ur20v would say, next weekend

[2016-M5]

Originally Posted by ur20v

Plug change isn't to bad or complicated, once you get stuck in its obviuos.

For those who have sent your ECU's out for a tune you are half way there.

Remove filter lids and MAF sensor plugs just for access.
Remove the plasitic engine cover
Remove the torx screw and the pul up on the ecu/intercooler header tank- don't need to disconnect the hoses , just move out of the way
Remove the 2 screws at the top of each ecu and all connectors to the ecus', note you have to start one end first as the clips at the other can only be released when the connect next to them is removed
Don't need to remove the cooling hoses from the ecus as they can now be just moved out of the way.
Remove the bracket that holds the ecus and the plastic engine cover you removed earlier. There are 4 torx screws - 2 each side, then just unclip the various wires (lamda etc) and remove.

Now you can access the coils, lift up and away from the connectors and the connector is released, you may need to pry up gentally while pulling up on the coil using the connector clip -its what it is designed for.

Make sure you have the correct multi-hex spark plug socket BMS do a nice cheap one that has a magnet in it to keep the plug in the socket.

Remove and replace gapped plugs, I gapped to 22.

reverse the above and way to go. should take about 2 hours for the first time, probably an hour once you have the nack with the ecu connectors etc.

Easy really.

Note I have the weeping gasket on one bank so there was a smalla amount of oil in 2 plug holes - I wiped them clean for now - the gaskets will be a REAL pain as all the injectors and high pressure ppes will need to be removed plus a lot more stripping down and wires/connectors to move.

is there any way of doing this without unplugging the ECU's, that would scare me

[allmotor_2000]

Originally Posted by 2016-M5

is there any way of doing this without unplugging the ECU's, that would scare me

You can... just harder to reach and more scratches on your hands!

There is no issue in pulling the ECU's... I have done it at least 50 times and nothing happens!

[Used2be]

Originally Posted by 2016-M5

is there any way of doing this without unplugging the ECU's, that would scare me

BMW, or whoever designs them, does a great job with their electrical connectors. They are pretty much fool proof and it is easy to determine if you haven't attached them properly. Just don't spill any fluids into them when they're apart.

[TheHouseWon]

And while the ECU's are out, send them in for a tune