04-06-2013, 02:47 PM | #23 |
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I was at my dealer yesterday and the service manager told me that he sees this with cars that have the brake sensor rubbing against the pad. They should remove the pad and try to correctly angle the sensor or shave some material off the pad. My car is scheduled to get this done on the 17th. Not sure if it will help. Mine is only happening on front left wheel
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04-06-2013, 03:25 PM | #24 |
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That's not cool. If these issues were addressed more than a year ago, BMW should have already figure out a proper fix, especially on a car they sell for $100k+
Someone should write to Brambo and ask if they had made the brake squeal intentionally because they thought car owners with their brake system want extra attention?
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04-06-2013, 10:12 PM | #26 |
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I have it too. Seems to me like the cold weather is doing it.
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04-06-2013, 10:56 PM | #27 |
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Steel brakes should not make noise if they are working properly (as opposed to ceramic brakes, where noise in high humidity situations occurs because of the materials) When steel brakes make noise, it's because the calipers are vibrating due to a number of reasons. It could be an uneven pattern on the brake disc, the pad material, or because of the expansion/contraction of the pad/disc material causes some kind of harmonic resonance in the caliper. Usually you can solve this with some caliper grease, or a change in the pad material. You can apply caliper grease yourself, but make sure you don't get any near the pad. If that doesn't solve the problem, then it's got to be a structural problem with the caliper or disc.
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04-06-2013, 11:07 PM | #28 |
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Mine started squealing today as well. But only below 5mph.
I have a feeling cleaning the brakes with hard braking should solve it. Unfortunately the peasantry around here like to clog the roads with their Priuses and cheap gas. So it is hard to get up to speed. On another note - has anyone tried stop tech posiquiet ceramic pads? Should be less likely to squeal than our metallic pads.
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04-06-2013, 11:08 PM | #29 | |
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04-07-2013, 12:15 AM | #30 |
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Many of you whom have this issue have all had brake pad or rotor replacements and have a noise issue thereafter.
You must properly bed in your brakes (break in procedure for breaks). Doing so will improve pedal feel, reduce or eliminate brake squeal, prevent brake judder, lower brake dust, and overall extend the life of your brakes. Brake pads and rotors that are brand new normally have a special coating on them to prevent rusting and corrosion while they are stored and shipped. Immediately after new rotors and or pads are installed you should drive normally for a while so that the brake pads can polish the rotors clean of any film. Avoid any sort of aggressive braking. It's extremely important that you do not start the bedding in process until after you have driven normally for long enough (around 70-100 miles to be safe) for the pads to polish the rotors clean. Once you are satisfied that all traces of the film is gone and your brakes are polished clean, you may start the bedding in process. Begin sometime in the early morning, in an area of very light or no traffic and be sure no cars are driving behind you as you will be braking in an unusual manner that others will not expect. Brake Bedding In Process: 1. Reach about 60mph and gently apply the brakes a few times in order to slowly bring your brakes up to their normal operating temperature. You want to ensure that you do not thermally shock the rotors and pads by skipping this step and starting this process with cold brakes. 2. Reach a speed of 60mph and aggressively brake down (hard) to 15mph. After braking down hard from 60-15, immediately bring the car back up to speed (60mph) and repeat for a total of ten aggressive near-stops. Do not substitute a higher speed as doing so will produce too much heat and create a negative result. Ensure that you absolutely do not come to a full stop, you only want to brake down to 10-15mph. If you come to a full stop and keep the brakes engaged, you could imprint pad material onto the rotors causing a negative result (vibration and uneven braking). While you want to brake hard from 60-15, you don't want to brake too hard to the point where the wheels lock and or the ABS system engages. You might start to feel some brake fading towards the end (7, 8 or 9th cycle) and smell the brakes, all of which is normal for the bedding in process. 3. After your last near stop (10th cycle), immediately bring your car back up to speed (above 50mph) and drive for about 5-7 minutes while using the brakes as little as possible. The goal here is to cool down your brakes. In order to do so, you need constant airflow and should stay off the brakes as much as you possibly can.. use engine braking as a substitute. Try to not become trapped in any scenario that requires you to come to a full stop. If you must come to a full stop, the best thing to do is to immediately let off the brakes once stopped (hopefully you are on level ground so you don't roll). 4. Optional: After you complete the cool down process, Perform an additional three-four near stop cycles, this time from 80mph to 15mph. Repeat three more times, then move onto the cool down process again to complete the bed in process. You should ensure that the brakes are cooled down before parking the car in order to prevent a negative result(s). You may or may not need to complete another bedding in cycle for a total of two bedding cycles. After you have cooled down the brakes, bring them back to normal operating temperature (as described in step one) and complete a second bedding cycle (steps 2-3). Once you have completed the above (after two full bedding cycles), you should notice a more firm pedal feel. Also, you may notice a very slight blue tint and grey film on the rotors. The blue film tells you that the rotors have reached break-in temperature and the grey film is brake pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor. These are both good indicators. The best braking performance occurs when there's an even layer of pad material deposited across the rotors. This will minimize or remove any squealing noise, increases braking torque, and maximize the life of the rotors and brake pads.
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04-07-2013, 04:57 AM | #31 |
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Hmmm, the M5 is a performance car, fitted with performance brakes.....if you treat them incorrectly they will squeal. Fact.
This is not a BMW thing as others have posted with other high performance marques. My advice is either come to terms with conditioning the brakes on a regular basis, or question your car purchase in future....Prius brakes for example don't squeal. |
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04-07-2013, 05:18 AM | #32 | |
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05-25-2013, 01:02 AM | #33 |
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Have about 1900 miles on my M5 . Have driven it in temps from 50 degrees to 100 degrees. Brakes always squealing when coming to a stop. Beyond annoying for such a great car. I have 0% interest in taking it to BMW of manhattan as they are crooks/ awful.
Has anyone solved this problem yet or have any helpful information to say when bringing the car to a BMW dealer? Thanks and appreciate any help . |
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05-25-2013, 05:54 AM | #34 |
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Avinch... You gave me the same advice in another post. So I took mine to the dealer for the same squeal at about 2 - 3 miles per hour. The dealer took the pads off, shaved them, cleaned the rotors and applied a solution to the rotors. They told me they were essentially new again and that I needed to take it easy on braking for the first 150 - 200 miles. I plan on bedding them in after that using your instructions. Question is will I need to do this on a regular basis or is this a one time thing? By the way the warped rotor issue I mentioned with the Stoptechs I had was not abuse / misuse on my part. I followed the same bedding procedure to the letter though Stoptechs didn't require the 3 additional 80 mph cycles. It wasn't until they sent me a different pad combo for the rotors I had that eventually fixed the problem. Anyway hoping your instructions work and that I don't run into a ticket happy highway patrolman in the process. Thanks...
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05-25-2013, 06:58 AM | #35 |
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I've come to the conclusion the squeal is due to the brake pad dust. Now I have no idea why this brake pad dust is different than on any other BMW but just let me believe. I've had my dealership put all new pads on which only helped for about 300miles. About once every two weeks I take the hose and spray the inside of the wheels real good and get in between the pad and rotor to make sure all the black crap is flushed out. Seems to work very well
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05-25-2013, 07:38 AM | #36 |
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Guys it this your first BMW? It's my 6th and all of them have had brake squeal. When I search Porsche forums they have the same issue. What I read suggests it is an inherent characteristic of steel brakes with metallic pads. Ceramic pads on steel brakes would be quieter but would reduce braking power which is why this model is used by Lexus but not by BMW M nor by other performance car makers on their steel rotors.
If you don't want brake squeal, get a CCB or swap out the pads for ceramic ones (which will likely reduce braking distance marginally but reduce squeal and dust).
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05-25-2013, 08:17 AM | #37 |
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I'm not sure I'd recommend CCB brakes over the standard brakes for no break squeal , the CCB will likely squeal more during cold, wet and moist conditions.
It's also interesting to see how many folks complain about this , same as oil consumption. Not sure why this is but I have none of these issues whatsoever. No oil consumption after 5800mls and no squeal at all (and that's also true for all my previous BMWs) Maybe all the mountain pass driving/breaking did make a difference
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05-25-2013, 08:54 AM | #38 | |
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Still no oil burn for me though.
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05-25-2013, 09:02 AM | #39 |
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I'm curious - all previous e60 M5 owners, did you experience brake-squeal too?
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05-25-2013, 09:32 AM | #40 |
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Never had a Car never mind BMW with brake squeal / squeak
The M5 I had for 4 days had NO such problems, I never bed my brakes in with high speed stops EVER, and never get problems, I just treat them lightly for 1000 miles or so, and away we go. Sorry baking in Disks to me is madness.
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05-25-2013, 11:53 AM | #41 |
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I've had this brake issue and it was really bad. Took my car to the dealer and im not sure what they did but I have never heard a squeal or squeak after that in any temp that I usually drive in. I sent my buddy who has an M5 there also because his brakes were bad too and now his are fine too.
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05-25-2013, 11:58 AM | #42 | |
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05-25-2013, 12:23 PM | #43 |
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@Rich65 no you will not have to perform the bed in procedure more than once unless you have new pads or rotors installed or squealing comes back due to:
1. Parking the car with hot brakes (results in the pad depositing material on an area of the rotor therefore causing squealing). You should always cool the brakes down before parking if the brakes are very hot. 2. Aggressive braking during the first 200-250 miles of new rotors or pads being installed (you can't bed in or brake very hard during the first 200 miles due to the film on most all new rotors and sometimes the pads) 3. Incorrect bedding in process (such as if you come to a full stop while bedding in.. pads will deposit material onto rotors) If you wait 200-250 miles after new rotors/pads (and should wait for that period after whatever your dealer applied onto the brakes), then perform the bedding in procedured mentioned about, and follow general rules thereafter (like not parking the car with very hot rotors), you should be able to avoid brake squeal issues.
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05-25-2013, 01:02 PM | #44 | |
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