cost of an M5 caliper

[m5hadoop]

Today I took in my car for service to get the rear brake pads replaced. Just got a call from my SA telling me that the tech found that the one of the calipers had completely seized up and that there is no way for them to remove the pads and fix this without putting on a completely new caliper.

They won't do this under warranty because of my documented track use. Have 10k miles on it and am on my 4th set of tires, had my front pads replaced twice, front rotors once and this was the 2nd replacement of the rear pads.

I'm happy to pay for consumables that have excessively worn as a result of my track days (tires and pads), but a seized up caliper is something else.

They claim that a caliper replacement is going to cost at least $1500.

Seems a bit steep for a caliper. Anyone know whether this is the going rate for a new caliper?

[TrevorM3]

1500 to replace AND install? or just parts?

glad to hear you're driving the shit out of the thing though lol

[TrevorM3]

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...m6-34217848313


and diagram for confirmation


http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=34_1825


they are trying to rape you as usual. buy it yourself, and take it to a reputable mechanic.

360x2=720 so.. the rest is labor? that's too expensive imo.

[fhaze3]

4 set of tires? 2 set of front pads, one set of rotors, and one set of rear pads, in 10K miles?

Originally Posted by fhaze3

[SakM_5]

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...FRJbhgodXc8HGw FRONT




https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/34217845815/ REAR

[m5hadoop]

Thanks guys for the links to the replacement parts. This is the ammunition I needed to follow up my SA. I'm guessing the "at least $1500" includes labor. The tech already worked 90 minutes to try and see if he could unseize the caliper.

The car is my daily driver, but only have a 4 mile commute, so a high percentage of the 10k miles is track time. The severe brake wear is because in reality the car is too heavy to track too often (Thunderhill will kill your brakes) and likely part of my driving style where I had the bad habit of not braking enough for sharp turns at Sonoma while still trying to force the car through it. Getting better at it...

I've decided that if I want to continue to attend 5 or so track days a year I need a lighter car

[apexlocator]

Wow, 1500 for that anemic rear caliper? and he said "at least" too.

Gotta love the immense power of the M5, but you are right in your conclusion that it is just too heavy and costly to track (I'm talking road coarse/ autocross). Pick up a light, "disposable" track car (s2000, 350z, miata, etc) and have fun and be able to better perfect your driving skills. Consumables/maintenance will be less also.

Originally Posted by m5hadoop

Thanks guys for the links to the replacement parts. This is the ammunition I needed to follow up my SA. I'm guessing the "at least $1500" includes labor. The tech already worked 90 minutes to try and see if he could unseize the caliper.

The car is my daily driver, but only have a 4 mile commute, so a high percentage of the 10k miles is track time. The severe brake wear is because in reality the car is too heavy to track too often (Thunderhill will kill your brakes) and likely part of my driving style where I had the bad habit of not braking enough for sharp turns at Sonoma while still trying to force the car through it. Getting better at it...

I've decided that if I want to continue to attend 5 or so track days a year I need a lighter car

[MyF15+F85]

I would LOVE to see that seized caliper ( I'm not buying it ! )
Germans design this thing to the max ( temps )

The only thing that I see possible to fail are the pins holding pads...
Which means that it is serviceable ...

Still I would want to get the caliper from the dealer to examine it.

If they will say that they need to send it back, somewhere for rebuilding or there is core charge, I would not buy into it.
Personal opinion
Good Luck

[Used2be]

Originally Posted by m5hadoop

The severe brake wear is because in reality the car is too heavy to track too often (Thunderhill will kill your brakes) and likely part of my driving style where I had the bad habit of not braking enough for sharp turns at Sonoma while still trying to force the car through it.

I've decided that if I want to continue to attend 5 or so track days a year I need a lighter car

I'm not completely up to speed with the way BMW uses the rear brakes for car control, but if you use MDM mode for road track use and put the car into slides or other situations where the control mode kicks in, that rear brake might get quite a workout. With all the power the car has it is scary to switch off the nannies completely, but I think you might find the rear brake won't be melted if you do.

That said, the dealer is not your friend with those prices!

[JMD]

Well,...I was told that a brake job for an M5 is around $3k!, and I assumed that was for bads and rotors. No calipers! So, I just soaked it all in and thought,...well, a car with 560Hp needs lots of stopping power! It is what it is.

I just know this, folks that buy these cars out of warranty had better have a bank roll on the side.

[m5hadoop]

Quick update: Supposedly something had melted due to overheating on the track and that caused the caliper to seize. I did not notice any reduced braking performance.

The price was not just for the caliper but also the actuator (for e-brake?) and housing. It wasn't quite clear why all those parts would need to be replaced. I'm getting it looked at by an independent BMW mechanic on Monday. Rebuild kit might be one of the options.

Originally Posted by Used2be

I'm not completely up to speed with the way BMW uses the rear brakes for car control, but if you use MDM mode for road track use and put the car into slides or other situations where the control mode kicks in, that rear brake might get quite a workout. With all the power the car has it is scary to switch off the nannies completely, but I think you might find the rear brake won't be melted if you do.

This is something that was suggested to me a while ago and had kind of forgotten about it simply because I didn't feel comfortable completely turning off TC. In hindsight I wish I had tried this sooner.

[m5hadoop]

Took my car to an independent BMW mechanic and there was nothing wrong with the caliper. In the end all I needed was new rear brake pads which is why I took the car to my dealer in the first place. No need to replace the caliper itself, the housing and the e-brake actuator. Let's just call it a dealer being overly aggressive in trying to replace parts.

Anyway, I highly recommend Bavarian Motorsport in Milpitas. A shop run by true BMW enthusiasts who like to track their cars. Lots of M expertise.

[TrevorM3]

you should definitely post the dealership. save another member the trouble, and money. that is unacceptable.

[BarryB]

Originally Posted by m5hadoop

Took my car to an independent BMW mechanic and there was nothing wrong with the caliper. In the end all I needed was new rear brake pads which is why I took the car to my dealer in the first place. No need to replace the caliper itself, the housing and the e-brake actuator. Let's just call it a dealer being overly aggressive in trying to replace parts.

Anyway, I highly recommend Bavarian Motorsport in Milpitas. A shop run by true BMW enthusiasts who like to track their cars. Lots of M expertise.

Which dealership in the Bay Area gave you this BS? Also who is your service advisor? Would like to avoid these people.
Please share.

[ur20v]

... all good ideas but before you do that you need a 3rd part engineer (like the AA or RAC etc) to access the caliper etc... if your dust seal and piston are damaged BMW may have been right and your indy have given you a band aid unintensionally - when you push the piston back to get the caliper off to change the pads, any pitting on the piston and splits in the dust shield become hard to impossible to access... these parts suffer on the track for te reasons already given above...

Just saying be VERY sure of your facts before you ruin any relationship you have with your dealer and SA, they can be make-or-break with these cars especially as you track the car and you don't want to be left holding the baby if you lunch the gear box or engine...

[m5hadoop]

Originally Posted by BarryB

Which dealership in the Bay Area gave you this BS? Also who is your service advisor? Would like to avoid these people.
Please share.

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