12-02-2023, 04:13 PM | #1 |
Mark
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Multiple malfunctions
Hi, I’m hoping with the wealth of experience and knowledge out there, some of you might be able to help.
I’ve got a 2012 M5, had it for eight years, 55k on the clock, and it’s generally been in good health. A couple of days ago I started the car, and one after another I got malfunction after malfunction. Here’s the list: Brake system drive moderately Restraint system Pedestrian protection system Driving stabilisation failure Steering drive moderately Rear axle differential lock Before taking it to a garage, I wanted to have an idea of what the issue might be. Surely each of these can’t be faults? The weather has been cold for a few days, so could it be that? The car battery is less than a year old, I’ve ran a test on it, and it’s fully charged and in good health. I’ve also (after seeing other references) disconnected the comfort access from all door handles, and the problem remains. The. CA doesn’t work on all doors, so thought isolating them might help but to no avail. Does anyone have any ideas what the problem might be? Anyone experienced this before? Is it a big fix or maybe something nice and easy to resolve? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks, Mark |
12-02-2023, 04:34 PM | #2 | |
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I gather the new battery was coded in after it was fitted. |
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12-02-2023, 04:46 PM | #3 |
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Definitely sounds like a battery related issue to me. I would put the car on a charger for a couple of days, reset the codes, and see if it does it again.
You can also unplug the battery for an hour after charging it, just to reset it. |
12-02-2023, 05:41 PM | #4 |
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I don’t have a reader. Maybe I should look into one if they can give me decent information on the issues. And they can cancel errors? Is it almost like a reset and can resolve the issue? I didn’t fit the battery, so not sure about the coding.
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M5Rick60090.50 |
12-02-2023, 05:43 PM | #5 |
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A kind gentleman at a local car parts shop tested the battery for me, and it was showing 97% charge and good health. Like you I suspect something battery related. Or maybe a fault connection? It surely can’t be all six of these functions of the car have broken.
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12-02-2023, 07:56 PM | #6 |
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Sounds very similar to a condition we had with our E93 when the steering angle sensor was out of zero/alignment.
When you said that you isolated the CA did you remove the fuse? If you have a smartphone get BimmerLink and an approved adapter. No regrets on buying this tool.
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12-03-2023, 02:33 AM | #7 | |
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OBD2 readers come in many types and prices so can't advise which one would suit you, I have a cheap one which I used to cancel any CEL's but after replacing the plugs at a dealer it now stays off. |
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12-03-2023, 03:51 PM | #8 | |
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I might look into Bimmerlink as I’ve seen a few people reference that online. |
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12-03-2023, 03:55 PM | #9 | |
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M5Rick60090.50 |
12-03-2023, 04:03 PM | #10 |
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Registering a new battery resets the algorithm back to optimal charging voltage for the specified battery, then it will have to be coded no matter what it's specifications.
Last edited by M5Rick; 12-03-2023 at 04:09 PM.. |
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12-03-2023, 04:32 PM | #11 |
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As others have said, I’d get an obd2 scanner and reset the codes. I got mine many years ago for $100 from Autozone.
It’s a basic one that can read codes and reset them. I don’t need more than that because it’s not worth my time, I just take it to my mechanic if basic troubleshooting doesn’t work. Buy one and try it. As a bonus, it works for other cars too. I had a misfire in my S-class once and got a tow quote for $400. The car would barely move and shake. I plugged in the reader, reset the codes, and drove it home without problem. Turned out to be a bad O2 sensor. |
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12-06-2023, 07:57 PM | #12 |
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You have a battery draw causing low battery voltage at cranking, and the subsequent faults that follow. The reason your battery tested good at the parts store is because it was recharged while driving there. Have the draw diagnosed ( preferably by someone competent).
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