04-02-2016, 10:09 PM | #1 |
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BMS JB4
What does installation entail with this tune? I had Stage 1 on my N63 and it was a 15-20 min job. I will not splice wires but want the flexibility of the JB4 vs their Stage 1. I looked on their website and its not clear what is involved. Per my other thread, i am leaning to Dinan Stage 1 although i'd lise my extended warranty which is not too cool since i bought the car vs lease. Thx
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04-03-2016, 07:09 PM | #2 |
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04-03-2016, 08:05 PM | #4 |
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04-03-2016, 08:11 PM | #5 |
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Guys -
The JB4 + BCM is a plug and play unit with the F10 M5. Not sure where you guys are seeing any splicing. I have a write up in the DIY on the upgrade from stage 1 to JB4. I did not have the BCM at the time however, the BCM plugs into the boost Plugs located behind the left inter cooler. It's a 1-2 hour job tops for everything. Now that I've done it a few times, will be less than an hour for me.
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04-03-2016, 08:19 PM | #6 |
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Stage 1 - the only thing missing in this guide is installing the OBD cable into the cabin. It's an easy Job. When upgrade the stage 1 to JB4 all your doing is replacing the stage 1 board and adding an OBD2 cable. If you purchase all together BMS does all the pre wiring.
http://www.burgertuning.com/instruct...e1_install.pdf BCM Installation guide From All_motor http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showpo...1&postcount=56 From BMS Lots of addl photos are needed here. Some basic directions to get the ball rolling. Note the BCM pairs should not be mixed up. With earlier ones we plug them in to each other and with new ones we also add a zip-tie so you know which pair is which. If you mix them up the net result will be too much boost in one bank and not enough in the other. Bank2 boost is shown as "IAVG" in JB4 logs. 1. Disconnect negative battery terminal. 2. Insert the BCM BLUE wire in to the JB4 DB25 connector position #1. 3. Connect the ground fork to the shock tower or any other suitable chassis ground. 4. To reach the wastegate connectors you're going to need to loosen and pull aside the passenger side intercooler. 5. Remove the passenger side "charge pipe" from the top of the intercooler, loosen the hose clamp securing the intercooler to the throttle body, and any bolts securing the intercooler in place 6. Unplug the two large water hoses. A quart or two of coolant will leak out. I used tap water later to refill but OEM IC coolant would probably be a better long term fluid. 7. Rotate the intercooler out of the way exposing the two boost solenoids. Plug the BCM module in to each being careful to keep the male/female pairs separate. They are not interchangeable. 8. Put it all back together but don't refill the IC yet in case you made a mistake and need to take it apart again. 9. Reconnect battery and start the car a few times to ensure there are no fault codes coming up. Assuming those look OK top off the IC coolant fluid.
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04-05-2016, 07:21 PM | #7 | |
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04-08-2016, 06:32 PM | #9 | |
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Everything can be reverted back to stock without worrying about covering up any mess. Dinan is a great performance option as well. And with Dinan, you get their warranty backed program as well. Cant go wrong with either but I like Dinan for many reasons. JB4 is mainly for the user that wants to push their engine to the limits while being able to control specific parameter's, add methanol, catless delete, etc. |
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04-13-2016, 02:05 PM | #10 | |
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04-21-2016, 09:36 AM | #11 |
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Zero splicing, I think you just scanned over an found the Stage 1 to JB4 conversion where you connect the OBDII port to the old connector.
Not needed with the newer PnP kits
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