How much earl are you burning?

[erm324]

'16 M5, just hit 4k miles and "minimum oil level +1 qt" came on, added 1qt good to go

[Vitacura]

Guess when my M5 comes in I will go ahead and pick up a qt at the dealer to have it in the garage if I get the notification to add oil. Just in case.

[MBBM5]

I keep a qt of oil in my trunk and normally have to add one every 1500-2000 miles. 22k miles, 8/13 build for 14MY.

[lemetier]

Originally Posted by Vitacura

Guess when my M5 comes in I will go ahead and pick up a qt at the dealer to have it in the garage if I get the notification to add oil. Just in case.

Use the firm break-in and the chance of oil consumption/dilution drops drastically. Nothing needs to "seat" in the motor, but the rings and cylinder walls need to temper completely to keep everything nice and snug. Try to drive long enough to bring fluids to temp after cold starts, (don't let it sit and idle to warm up). Use Efficient or Sport Throttle Mode for the first 500 miles or so, avoid rapid lift-off of the throttle (fuel blow by under vacuum is the worst offender with this motor despite all the systems it has to minimize this), and don't be afraid to gently wind it all the way out after the first 100 miles. 500 rpm increments every 25-50 miles starting at 5200rpm (efficient and sport keep the throttle demand under 80% unless the kickdown stop is depressed). Drive moderately for a few more miles, and allow the car to breathe before shutting down. Suggest for the transmission, D2 for most driving and M1 occasionally to modulate engine speed out of the low range for the first 600 miles, then D3 or M1/2 (but avoid lugging it at low rpm and heathy throttle loads) for the last 600 miles.

Tires will need 150-300 miles to reach normal adhesion levels, and brakes shouldn't be babied nor should they be aggressively bedded in either for the first 1200miles. After that, they can be properly bedded in to remove any glaze should it accumulate.

After the initial 1200miles, slowly begin maxing everything out (except Launch Control) until 1500-1800 miles.

From then on, keep the shiny side up, the red lights facing the rear, and hold on tight.

[Vitacura]

Great info, thanks! I am taking delivery at the Performance Center and will keep those points in mind on our drive home and thereafter.

[Rearview]

Miamiten - great advice on shiny side up and red lights in rear! Loved that. I might add the occasional red, blue flashing lights in the rear as you are 'winding her out'!!

[lemetier]

Originally Posted by Rearview

Miamiten - great advice on shiny side up and red lights in rear! Loved that. I might add the occasional red, blue flashing lights in the rear as you are 'winding her out'!!

[Rearview]

Bring it on, Mr. Experienced High Credentials!

Are you Crockett or Tubbs?

Give me a break.

Troll? I think you misinterpreted my response ... when I said i loved your comment, I actually did. Unbunch your undies, Rico Suave.

[lemetier]

Originally Posted by Vitacura

Great info, thanks! I am taking delivery at the Performance Center and will keep those points in mind on our drive home and thereafter.

Congratulations. Ask if Jim Millard is available for your track time. If he's there and this is your first Fxx M Car, and/or don't have much prior HPDE Training, ask him to take you on a full lap in a Wraith or Ghost V Specification first followed by a couple rounds of the skid pad before switching to an M5. Those two Rollers are just big, forgiving F10's and they'll demonstrate nearly the same characteristics at the absolute limit but allow one to get there a bit more gradually and better recognize the signals. M5 can be a handful to drive spiritedly and requires a lot of attention to recognize when she's had enough and is ready to bite back.

[JNoSol]

Originally Posted by mpirestate

I have 2014 just reached 20k miles. Not a single drop of oil added.
I think excessive oil burning happens pre 2014 cars.

Anyone can confirm that LCI S63Tu are less likely to burn oil? I think it's based on break-in and luck.

[patb23]

'14 with comp pkg and at almost 40k miles and have never had to top off the oil.

[lemetier]

Originally Posted by JNoSol

Anyone can confirm that LCI S63Tu are less likely to burn oil? I think it's based on break-in and luck.

There have been some programming updates and hardware changes over the entire duration of production. The software updates should have been applied to all applicable cars during service visits. Most of these don't correspond to "LCI" as that was purely cosmetic for the M5.

The Sept '14 and later builds with revised Wastegates will be the least likely to suffer from oil consumption/dilution, since they were the last major mechanical component remaining in the system.

[lemetier]

Originally Posted by apexlocator

Have you checked your intake pipes for oil, particularly the passenger side?

I think this is important and worthy of a separate thread in this forum. There shouldn't be any liquid oil in the fresh air intake tracts on an S63TU and its presence indicates a problem somewhere in the CCV System. S63TU has two separators, with catch cans for each bank on the labyrinth separators, and two more filters down stream.

[lemetier]

Under pressure...