Have you wish you shouldve gotten CCB

[SFT33]

If you can afford the CCBs get them. They are great. Unsprung weight is noticeable, they look amazing and stop on a dime. I have zero regrets.

[ur20v]

I hope I can find a good used set or the new cost comes down markedly, I miss them from my GT3, awesome brakes.

[Rearview]

Originally Posted by SFT33

If you can afford the CCBs get them. They are great. Unsprung weight is noticeable, they look amazing and stop on a dime. I have zero regrets.

Common sense prevails!

[TrevorM3]

Originally Posted by SFT33

If you can afford the CCBs get them. They are great. Unsprung weight is noticeable, they look amazing and stop on a dime. I have zero regrets.

you must be a robot.

[gblansten]

Originally Posted by F10M5Manual

Youre right!!!
And no warranty on them breaks also!!!

Im surprise it will last 100k as what they say.

If they are broken then I don't want them.

[NightM]

Originally Posted by gblansten

If they are broken then I don't want them.

Yeah once they break
You pay replacements.

[gblansten]

Originally Posted by F10M5Manual

Yeah once they break
You pay replacements.

Good point

[ur20v]

They will easily last 100k as long as not tracked. Tracking will depend on the driver as to how much they increase the wear as for breaking, use wheel guide pins that screw into the wheel bolt holes so the wheels don't drop on them when being changes and change the pads at +50% and they are robust.

Has anyone actualy HAD CCB? I have and love them and would spec any performance car I could with them.

[NightM]

Originally Posted by ur20v

They will easily last 100k as long as not tracked. Tracking will depend on the driver as to how much they increase the wear as for breaking, use wheel guide pins that screw into the wheel bolt holes so the wheels don't drop on them when being changes and change the pads at +50% and they are robust.

Has anyone actualy HAD CCB? I have and love them and would spec any performance car I could with them.

Well.
dmetuning
@m6beast are the hardcore ones with ccbs so well see at the end of the year.

[Phatcat]

Originally Posted by ur20v

They will easily last 100k as long as not tracked. Tracking will depend on the driver as to how much they increase the wear as for breaking, use wheel guide pins that screw into the wheel bolt holes so the wheels don't drop on them when being changes and change the pads at +50% and they are robust.

Has anyone actualy HAD CCB? I have and love them and would spec any performance car I could with them.

I have CCB, although I admit I chose it mostly for looks.

[ur20v]

But now you have them I would guess you rate them and are please with the investment?

[Phatcat]

Originally Posted by ur20v

But now you have them I would guess you rate them and are please with the investment?

For normal use it is not a good investment at all if you are talking about performance wise, stock brake is good enough.

[SFT33]

I am not a robot.

I have them and am happy with purchase. I am sure by the time they need to be replaced the cost will probably have come way down.

They are expensive, complete overkill and probably unnecessary - but - so is my piano black trim, full leather and individual paint.

So far, I love them. They look absolutely ridiculous and when I pulled up next to a M235i the other day with blue calipers it made me feel superior.

[Phatcat]

Originally Posted by SFT33

I am not a robot.

I have them and am happy with purchase. I am sure by the time they need to be replaced the cost will probably have come way down.

They are expensive, complete overkill and probably unnecessary - but - so is my piano black trim, full leather and individual paint.

So far, I love them. They look absolutely ridiculous and when I pulled up next to a M235i the other day with blue calipers it made me feel superior.

Exactly why I chose the CCB, lol.

[Rearview]

Don't want them. Had them on a ZR1 along with the now famous C6 ZR1 80-85mph vibration.

I'll hang onto the $9+k for wheel cleaning supplies

[Silver TT]

Does BMW actually say they will last 100k miles under normal street use?

I am looking at buying a pre-owned 2014 or 2015 Comp Pack car and most do not have the CCB but a few do. I was initially avoiding them but if they last 100k and they are not unsafe in rain (can't imagine they are actually unsafe if BMW approved them for a street car) then that is the direction I will likely go if the rest of the car is as I want spec wise.

[TrevorM3]

Originally Posted by SFT33

I am not a robot.

I have them and am happy with purchase. I am sure by the time they need to be replaced the cost will probably have come way down.

They are expensive, complete overkill and probably unnecessary - but - so is my piano black trim, full leather and individual paint.

So far, I love them. They look absolutely ridiculous and when I pulled up next to a M235i the other day with blue calipers it made me feel superior.

are you being sarcastic, or are you this big of a douche in real life?

[Silver TT]

Originally Posted by Silver TT

Does BMW actually say they will last 100k miles under normal street use?

I am looking at buying a pre-owned 2014 or 2015 Comp Pack car and most do not have the CCB but a few do. I was initially avoiding them but if they last 100k and they are not unsafe in rain (can't imagine they are actually unsafe if BMW approved them for a street car) then that is the direction I will likely go if the rest of the car is as I want spec wise.

Just to elaborate a bit on this question, I read this review and I was wondering how many of you feel the same way? I get the brake dust thing, but my wife will be driving this car occasionally (which is why I am getting a normal car instead of something only a lunatic would drive) and the last thing I want is a hesitant brake pedal or brakes that need to be warmed up before being 100%.

---------

Peeling off the highway and onto back roads we made good use of the optional M Carbon Ceramic brakes which had good overall feel but seemed to need a few heavy braking applications to loosen up. Once warmed a bit, the ceramic discs feel confidence-inspiring but in my limited use and not necessarily scrubbing off major speed, I would personally have a hard time ponying up the $9,250 when equipping my own M6. That said, the shelf life of the ceramic brakes is reportedly equivalent to the life of the car meaning that the first owners could potentially never need to worry about brake changes. This is a go-to option for anyone planning to show their M6 some track time but that’s likely a very small segment of M6 buyers.


http://www.bmwblog.com/2013/10/29/20...-drive-review/

[lemetier]

Originally Posted by Silver TT

Just to elaborate a bit on this question, I read this review and I was wondering how many of you feel the same way? I get the brake dust thing, but my wife will be driving this car occasionally (which is why I am getting a normal car instead of something only a lunatic would drive) and the last thing I want is a hesitant brake pedal or brakes that need to be warmed up before being 100%.

---------

Peeling off the highway and onto back roads we made good use of the optional M Carbon Ceramic brakes which had good overall feel but seemed to need a few heavy braking applications to loosen up. Once warmed a bit, the ceramic discs feel confidence-inspiring but in my limited use and not necessarily scrubbing off major speed, I would personally have a hard time ponying up the $9,250 when equipping my own M6. That said, the shelf life of the ceramic brakes is reportedly equivalent to the life of the car meaning that the first owners could potentially never need to worry about brake changes. This is a go-to option for anyone planning to show their M6 some track time but that’s likely a very small segment of M6 buyers.


http://www.bmwblog.com/2013/10/29/20...-drive-review/

These are the only 2 questions I'd ask.

- Do you plan to drive the car for a decade or accrue annual mileage?

- If you do get to the point of replacement, are you willing to spend up to an additional $15k for the service on top of the initial cost?

[Silver TT]

Originally Posted by lemetier

These are the only 2 questions I'd ask.

- Do you plan to drive the car for a decade or accrue annual mileage?

- If you do get to the point of replacement, are you willing to spend up to an additional $15k for the service on top of the initial cost?

I plan to keep the car for about 2yrs until I can get a decent deal on the new gen M5 or E63s (need to see reviews and performance tests on both before deciding).

What I am most concerned about is the wet weather / cold weather stopping performance and/or feel of the CCBs.

[lemetier]

Originally Posted by Silver TT

I plan to keep the car for about 2yrs until I can get a decent deal on the new gen M5 or E63s (need to see reviews and performance tests on both before deciding).

What I am most concerned about is the wet weather / cold weather stopping performance and/or feel of the CCBs.

I posted this on the F8x forum a while back. It covers all the concerns you're asking about and then some.

Originally Posted by melvyn

Really enjoyed reading your posts.
I had them retrofitted and don't use them on a track, I find them excellent on the road and 100 per cent better than the steel brakes they replaced despite other people thinking they are overkill and won't get them up to temperatures.I am understanding now that they are a different Carbon compared to others which you say won't be any use on the road under 300c.Can I ask you what sort of braking you need to do to get these over 600c, where I live were lucky not to have a national speed limit like the rest if the UK, I can get up to speeds of 135mph and come on the brakes down to 70mph, this is the fastest stretch and after that it's like anything up to 100-70.This is done over a 10 minute period then a half hour drive normal driving to do it again.I should explain its on a one way system we have put in place for the Isle of Man TT festival of which you are allowed to use the racing line to give the fans some freedom to enjoy.
I note your point about abrasive liquids on the discs while washing , I use a PH snow foam and don't shampoo the wheels .Am I doing right by this. Thanking you.

I appreciate the feedback and glad my contributions have helped in some way. The tone with the M5/6 crowd is quite different compared to this one. Making any comment that deviates from the illusion MCCB are a faultless, perfect, and completely wear resistant system results in a conviction without trial.

Eliminating the track use component, Isle of Man and Germany are the two near perfect locations where MCCB are designed to utilize their performance benefits to the maximum extent possible. Other markets where the abrasive wear is an advantage are simply a convenient coincidence. My knowledge of Carbon Composite Brake systems is a culmination of the not only the professional involvements I have with the automotive industry (OEM's, aftermarket, car care, and Motorsport entities), but also high speed rail and aviation. I don't contribute in this depth if I harbor any reservations as to the validity of the statements I make.

In all brake systems, 100c (212f) is the shared and initial temperature critical point. All brakes are susceptible to moisture absorption so the temperature at which liquid-vapor change occurs most violently is not a coincidence. Any data on a brake systems behavior below this point are nearly impossible to obtain. No regulatory entity requires the brake system or component of to be evaluated below this point separate from a type specific (complete vehicle) application. The 300c temperature point (up to 400c is the point for other cars depending on total mass) is the temperature at which oxidation fatigue doesn't occur and abrasive friction/kinetic force is at its optimum for the given mass to be decelerated. The way BMW has the DSC/ABS circuit programmed is key to how this occurs and what feedback the driver experiences. Brake Fade Compensation is utilized with MCCB, but the mechanics of it are very different to the characteristics exhibited in more common applications. It is not difficult to achieve this temperature quite quickly. To go above 400c is a bit harder in normal driving. 500c becomes significantly more difficult in an M3/M4 simply due to the total vehicle mass. Not knowing which specific route you drive most often (I do know the Isle of Man fairly well though) 500c isn't hard to reach there with the potential speeds and required deceleration. 600c is most likely touched and slightly exceeded, but sustained exposure above 600c is unlikely unless you go from 135mph+ to zero and cease all forward movement entirely. Another situation where prolonged exposure to 600c+ become likely is repeated shallow braking. The shorter the duration and less frequent the application the better. Once up to normal temp, 5 hard but short cycles that peak above 600c with cooling between is far less fatiguing than 5 soft but long cycles that peak above 600c.

When the MCCB brakes are "cold", the system will apply maximum pressure at the caliper at all times. On the other end, the resistance translated back through the brake pedal is degraded, and pedal position is not equal to the braking force.

To make it somewhat simple, I'll use a numerical range to represent Braking Action and pedal position.

Normally, 10% of pedal travel equals 10% of braking force. The amount of pressure at the caliper to achieve this is quantified by the master cylinder and circuit bias.

On MCCB below 100c, 1% of pedal depression will result in 99.9% braking pressure. It also will result in 1% resistance returned to the pedal and cause the driver to depress it further. This is by design. If the primary electronic servos were to fail, the system remains fully hydraulic (as long as that system is functioning). However, due to the nature of cold/saturated Carbon Ceramic Brakes, full force is required on the pedal to achieve acceptable deceleration rates.

With a fully functioning system, as the estimated temperature increases towards optimum, and the deceleration value relationship to pedal position begins to equal out, the less artificial feedback imposed to the pedal. At this point, the pedal position, system pressure, and relative resistance of the pedal, are for the most part, equally related. BMW's do not have temperature sensors on the brake systems in any production vehicle. All of this estimated by calculating numerous parameters. If you, or anyone else for that matter, want a simple way of knowing what temperatures are occurring, there are special paints that can be discreetly applied to the rotor hat in a small spot. As with any Composite Brake rotor hat, do not try to remove this once dry. The anodizing of the hat is very important and would be damaged. Most of these paints have a single reaction characteristic (the color changes as soon as a temperature point is exceeded). Newer types will not only change color once the specific temperature is exceeded, but they also will display specific characteristics to determine duration above the points.

When it comes to valeting, I do have direct experience and training with regards to Carbon Composite Brakes. Although one of our engineers at ProDrive is a bit overreactive and convulses over water when it comes to them, there are real precautions that should be taken. Even pH neutral cleaners are risky as they all will leave some sort of salt residue behind. This is usually absorbed by the pad and rotor. When heat is applied to the brakes, these salts burn off creating a gas that breaks down the delicate carbon fibers. Foam applications make this worse. The best approach is to first use steam to clean the wheels. It's sufficient enough to remove any residue without saturating the pads. Nothing more than a follow up dry wipe is needed (though I don't suggest reusing any towel that has been used for this). Before foaming the bodywork, take some larger towels and cover the wheels to prevent the foam from contacting the brakes. Once the bodywork has been rinsed, remove the towels and use a blower remove water from any remaining crevices and focus on the brakes as well.

It's a bit of a journey from where you are, but Parc Ferme in Bournemouth have a class specific to dealing with Carbon Composite Brakes and valeting. It, along with their other courses are quite valuable for the professional or DIY owner.

[thxbuff2001]

The CCB really has great stopping power even with the M5 weight. I have to keep it easy braking as it really stops abruptly. I have 2 other cars with CCB(Pcar and Speciale) and it takes getting used to with M5.

I thought maybe I am hard on the brakes but no, it just stops. Besides that, brake dust is none. I plan to DD the car thats why I bought a car with one.