Multiple malfunctions

[mwnbr]

Hi, I’m hoping with the wealth of experience and knowledge out there, some of you might be able to help.

I’ve got a 2012 M5, had it for eight years, 55k on the clock, and it’s generally been in good health.

A couple of days ago I started the car, and one after another I got malfunction after malfunction. Here’s the list:

Brake system drive moderately
Restraint system
Pedestrian protection system
Driving stabilisation failure
Steering drive moderately
Rear axle differential lock

Before taking it to a garage, I wanted to have an idea of what the issue might be. Surely each of these can’t be faults? The weather has been cold for a few days, so could it be that?

The car battery is less than a year old, I’ve ran a test on it, and it’s fully charged and in good health. I’ve also (after seeing other references) disconnected the comfort access from all door handles, and the problem remains. The. CA doesn’t work on all doors, so thought isolating them might help but to no avail.

Does anyone have any ideas what the problem might be? Anyone experienced this before? Is it a big fix or maybe something nice and easy to resolve? Any advice would be appreciated.

​Thanks,
Mark

[M5Rick]

Originally Posted by mwnbr

Hi, I’m hoping with the wealth of experience and knowledge out there, some of you might be able to help.

I’ve got a 2012 M5, had it for eight years, 55k on the clock, and it’s generally been in good health.

A couple of days ago I started the car, and one after another I got malfunction after malfunction. Here’s the list:

Brake system drive moderately
Restraint system
Pedestrian protection system
Driving stabilisation failure
Steering drive moderately
Rear axle differential lock

Before taking it to a garage, I wanted to have an idea of what the issue might be. Surely each of these can’t be faults? The weather has been cold for a few days, so could it be that?

The car battery is less than a year old, I’ve ran a test on it, and it’s fully charged and in good health. I’ve also (after seeing other references) disconnected the comfort access from all door handles, and the problem remains. The. CA doesn’t work on all doors, so thought isolating them might help but to no avail.

Does anyone have any ideas what the problem might be? Anyone experienced this before? Is it a big fix or maybe something nice and easy to resolve? Any advice would be appreciated.

​Thanks,
Mark

Have you an OBD2 reader, if not I'd get one and investigate the codes in turn and try to cancel them, it could be a glitch and it can happen on these.
I gather the new battery was coded in after it was fitted.

[M5_Raz]

Definitely sounds like a battery related issue to me. I would put the car on a charger for a couple of days, reset the codes, and see if it does it again.

You can also unplug the battery for an hour after charging it, just to reset it.

[mwnbr]

Originally Posted by M5Rick

Have you an OBD2 reader, if not I'd get one and investigate the codes in turn and try to cancel them, it could be a glitch and it can happen on these.
I gather the new battery was coded in after it was fitted.

I don’t have a reader. Maybe I should look into one if they can give me decent information on the issues. And they can cancel errors? Is it almost like a reset and can resolve the issue? I didn’t fit the battery, so not sure about the coding.

[mwnbr]

Originally Posted by M5_Raz

Definitely sounds like a battery related issue to me. I would put the car on a charger for a couple of days, reset the codes, and see if it does it again.

You can also unplug the battery for an hour after charging it, just to reset it.

A kind gentleman at a local car parts shop tested the battery for me, and it was showing 97% charge and good health. Like you I suspect something battery related. Or maybe a fault connection? It surely can’t be all six of these functions of the car have broken.

[TinCanSailor]

Sounds very similar to a condition we had with our E93 when the steering angle sensor was out of zero/alignment.

When you said that you isolated the CA did you remove the fuse?

If you have a smartphone get BimmerLink and an approved adapter. No regrets on buying this tool.

[M5Rick]

Originally Posted by mwnbr

I don’t have a reader. Maybe I should look into one if they can give me decent information on the issues. And they can cancel errors? Is it almost like a reset and can resolve the issue? I didn’t fit the battery, so not sure about the coding.

Before anything the battery must be registered, without registering it could shut down electrical systems, put it into limp mode or even prevent it from starting. If it was a BMW service agent dealer who did then it should be fine.
OBD2 readers come in many types and prices so can't advise which one would suit you, I have a cheap one which I used to cancel any CEL's but after replacing the plugs at a dealer it now stays off.

[mwnbr]

Originally Posted by TinCanSailor

Sounds very similar to a condition we had with our E93 when the steering angle sensor was out of zero/alignment.

When you said that you isolated the CA did you remove the fuse?

If you have a smartphone get BimmerLink and an approved adapter. No regrets on buying this tool.

Yeah I removed Fuse2. It looked fine but I swapped it with another 5A, and problem remained.

I might look into Bimmerlink as I’ve seen a few people reference that online.

[mwnbr]

Originally Posted by M5Rick

Before anything the battery must be registered, without registering it could shut down electrical systems, put it into limp mode or even prevent it from starting. If it was a BMW service agent dealer who did then it should be fine.
OBD2 readers come in many types and prices so can't advise which one would suit you, I have a cheap one which I used to cancel any CEL's but after replacing the plugs at a dealer it now stays off.

It was an independent garage that specialise in BMW’s that installed the new battery. But given it was about a year ago I’d have thought there would have been problems before now if it wasn’t registered. By registering, what exactly is that?

[M5Rick]

Originally Posted by mwnbr

It was an independent garage that specialise in BMW’s that installed the new battery. But given it was about a year ago I’d have thought there would have been problems before now if it wasn’t registered. By registering, what exactly is that?

Registering a new battery resets the algorithm back to optimal charging voltage for the specified battery, then it will have to be coded no matter what it's specifications.

[M5_Raz]

As others have said, I’d get an obd2 scanner and reset the codes. I got mine many years ago for $100 from Autozone.

It’s a basic one that can read codes and reset them. I don’t need more than that because it’s not worth my time, I just take it to my mechanic if basic troubleshooting doesn’t work.

Buy one and try it. As a bonus, it works for other cars too. I had a misfire in my S-class once and got a tow quote for $400. The car would barely move and shake. I plugged in the reader, reset the codes, and drove it home without problem. Turned out to be a bad O2 sensor.

[Solo_M_Tech]

You have a battery draw causing low battery voltage at cranking, and the subsequent faults that follow. The reason your battery tested good at the parts store is because it was recharged while driving there. Have the draw diagnosed ( preferably by someone competent).