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      05-08-2014, 03:38 AM   #23
Racer Louis
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DIY Oil Change

Ok, after the question being raised about a year ago, and nobody answering, I decided I might as well answer. I'll attach some pictures although most things will be pretty obvious once you're under the car.

The oil change on an F10 M5 is pretty basic, but there are a couple of tips to make things a little easier and/or less messy. There are also two tools I recommend - one necessary and the other that just makes things easier.

First, if you can find the oil pan drain plug (it's not in any way hidden), you'll know what to do; it's like almost any other drain plug you've ever seen. Unscrew it and the oil will drain. One thing I do before opening the drain is loosen the oil filler cap under the hood; it helps the oil drain. When installing the drain plug it should be torqued to 25Nm (18.4 ft. lbs.) with a new crush washer. The oil capacity with filter is 8.50 L (8.98 qts), 8.00 L (8.45 qts) without filter. The filter housing and cover hold 0.50 L (0.53 qts).

The harder part is the oil filter that is reached from below the car, next to the oil pan. The bottom of the engine block is covered by a metal plate; it's actually a subframe cross brace. There's also one behind the diff at the rear. There is an opening in it to access the oil pan and drain plug and another opening to access the oil filter that is located above the cross brace.

The only real way to unscrew the filter cover is with BMW tool 119240 or an equivalent specialty tool, unless you want to try to use one of those big "plier-type" that grips the filter cover, likely damaging the plastic filter cover, and you don't mind burning your arms on the nearby hot exhaust pipe. I have an Assenmacher Specialty Tool (www.asttool.com) 86.5 MM, 16 flats socket - AST tool number V410. It uses a 22MM socket or wrench. Almost any generic slip-on filter wrench will be too big to fit through the hole in the subframe cross brace.

One of the biggest problems is getting the filter off without dumping oil all over the top of the cross brace. The filter cover covers only about half of the filter and the filter housing holds half a liter of oil. That means if you just unscrew the filter cover completely you'll dump about one-quarter liter of oil. At the dealer, where the techs rarely have time, the tool of choice to try to avoid this is "cardboard." What I do is after I've drained the oil pan I unscrew the filter cover until the rubber o-ring just clears the bottom of the threads; this allows the "excess" oil to run over the filter cover (and the tool) and into my oil lift drain. I let it drip for about 15 minutes at which time it's easy to unscrew the cover all the way and pull the cover with the attached filter straight down without spilling any more oil. No oil gets on the top of the cross brace. I pour a little less than one-fourth quart of oil into the filter before installing it to help get the oil flowing on startup. I then put 8 quarts in the engine, start it and check for leaks then go for a drive to warm the oil to operating temperature, check the oil level then top it up to full with the 3/4 quart left from the oil I put in the filter.

If you look at the Assemacher Specialty Tool (www.asttool.com) online catalog take a look at AST's tool number OFAUD1000; it's a funnel with a fitting on the bottom just like the fitting on the oil filler cap. A quarter twist and it locks on the oil filler tube. You don't need to hold it and it can't move; makes adding oil neat and fast.

I'll try to attach a few pictures, although the oil change process is pretty basic -- other than avoiding the spilling of oil when removing the filter.
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      05-08-2014, 09:01 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racer Louis View Post
The only real way to unscrew the filter cover is with BMW tool 119240 or an equivalent specialty tool I have an Assenmacher Specialty Tool (www.asttool.com) 86.5 MM, 16 flats socket - AST tool number V410. It uses a 22MM socket or wrench. Almost any generic slip-on filter wrench will be too big to fit through the hole in the subframe cross brace.

If you look at the Assemacher Specialty Tool (www.asttool.com) online catalog take a look at AST's tool number OFAUD1000; it's a funnel with a fitting on the bottom just like the fitting on the oil filler cap. A quarter twist and it locks on the oil filler tube. You don't need to hold it and it can't move; makes adding oil neat and fast.
Thanks for going to the trouble of posting the pictures, and especially for the tip about Assemacher Specialty Tool. I wasn't aware of them and they look like a good resource, thanks.
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      05-14-2014, 06:24 PM   #25
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The AST funnel looks nice; I just ordered one after seeing it here. I think I'll go ahead and order a Fumoto valve as well to complete the "neatness theme". I have the Fumoto on each of my cars; it sure makes oil sampling and changing neater and easier...
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      05-14-2014, 10:56 PM   #26
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Oil pan drain quick connect

Thanks for the info. What I use, but not on my M5, is a quick connect fitting that replaces the drain plug. It uses a matching female connector that you can attach a piece of garden hose to to direct the draining oil directly into a container. The two pieces connect just like air tools to a compressor hose. When you connect the two it opens the drain. The male piece stays on the car, it comes with a protective screw on cover.

I have one on my racecar (an M3) because I change the oil after every race weekend. I also put one on my wife's car and my daily driver and tow vehicle as I'm basically lazy and it makes changing the oil that much easier. I got them from Pegasus Racing

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=QDOILPLUGS&utm_source=201404-1&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=201404-1

I haven't put one on the M5 for two reasons--1) I'll still take the car to the dealer for the scheduled services and the techs & dealer won't want to use them and assume the risk of being charged with the loss of an engine if something were to go wrong with it at any time after the service, and 2) I don't like the idea of putting something on the oil pan drain that protrudes farther down and has a greater (albeit minor) risk of getting hit if it isn't otherwise protected. On the other hand, I may just put one on the M5, I can swap it for the stock drain plug when I'm doing an oil change and the dealer will be doing the next one!
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      05-15-2014, 09:33 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racer Louis View Post
Ok, after the question being raised about a year ago, and nobody answering, I decided I might as well answer.

Thanks for the awesome write-up!
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      11-20-2014, 10:27 AM   #28
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Thanks for the write-up, it'll be a great help for my upcoming between-interval change.

Question: Does anyone happen to have the torque specs for the filter housing and the drain plug?
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      11-20-2014, 05:51 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racer Louis View Post
Thanks for the info. What I use, but not on my M5, is a quick connect fitting that replaces the drain plug. It uses a matching female connector that you can attach a piece of garden hose to to direct the draining oil directly into a container. The two pieces connect just like air tools to a compressor hose. When you connect the two it opens the drain. The male piece stays on the car, it comes with a protective screw on cover.

I have one on my racecar (an M3) because I change the oil after every race weekend. I also put one on my wife's car and my daily driver and tow vehicle as I'm basically lazy and it makes changing the oil that much easier. I got them from Pegasus Racing

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/gr...paign=201404-1


I haven't put one on the M5 for two reasons--1) I'll still take the car to the dealer for the scheduled services and the techs & dealer won't want to use them and assume the risk of being charged with the loss of an engine if something were to go wrong with it at any time after the service, and 2) I don't like the idea of putting something on the oil pan drain that protrudes farther down and has a greater (albeit minor) risk of getting hit if it isn't otherwise protected. On the other hand, I may just put one on the M5, I can swap it for the stock drain plug when I'm doing an oil change and the dealer will be doing the next one!
Hooey. I use Fumoto valves on all 5 of my vehicles, including the M. At such times when I have to take it in to the dealer, my tech (I have a dedicated one) is positively giddy that he doesn't have to go through the normal plug pull and reinstall, and mine isn't lower to any point where hitting it is an issue. Roll Tide...
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      05-05-2015, 10:37 PM   #30
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To Racer Louis....I want to say thanks for the great write up. Did my first M5 oil change tonight on a buddy's lift and it went perfectly thanks to your write up and details.
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      04-05-2016, 08:13 PM   #31
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Can anyone confirm where the drain plug is? Is it the bolt I've circled in red?
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      04-05-2016, 09:04 PM   #32
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It most certainly is the plug you have circled, and make sure you install a new crush washer...
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      04-06-2016, 07:25 PM   #33
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i think the reason there isn't alot of DIY on this car is bc alot of people driving 100k cars don't like to get their hands dirty.

this is a pleasure to see. thanks for posting.
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      04-06-2016, 08:11 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrevorM3 View Post
i think the reason there isn't alot of DIY on this car is bc alot of people driving 100k cars don't like to get their hands dirty.

this is a pleasure to see. thanks for posting.
I'll elaborate on this a bit... At my dealer, I am well known for the fact that I do my own maintenance, how particular (but friendly-I try) I am. (I feel quite sure that they laugh at the fact that I do my own, while having PMs covered for the first 50K miles.). Folks, no offense, but the demographic of BMW owners is not a demographic of "do it yourself" maintenance people. I would offer, not as an insult, but as an observed fact; this demographic doesn't know how, nor have the tools to do it. Forget about the "I don't have time" BS... I run a billion dollar business for a major Fortune 200 company, but somehow do it... The owners of BMWs are largely city dwellers who enjoy (rightly so) the convenience of having the dealer take care of stuff. If it breaks-dealer, maintenance, dealer... I saw a guy come in the other day while I happened to be there who wanted his tire pressure checked... I almost asked him to relinquish his "man card", but refrained... Feel free to flame the resident Redneck on the board...
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      04-06-2016, 08:53 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GarbageMan View Post
It most certainly is the plug you have circled, and make sure you install a new crush washer...
Does the said washer come with the OEM oil filter kit? If not, where can I get one?
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      04-06-2016, 08:59 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HXS View Post
Does the said washer come with the OEM oil filter kit? If not, where can I get one?

It does, just make sure they have it included.
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      04-07-2016, 12:09 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GarbageMan View Post
I'll elaborate on this a bit... At my dealer, I am well known for the fact that I do my own maintenance, how particular (but friendly-I try) I am. (I feel quite sure that they laugh at the fact that I do my own, while having PMs covered for the first 50K miles.). Folks, no offense, but the demographic of BMW owners is not a demographic of "do it yourself" maintenance people. I would offer, not as an insult, but as an observed fact; this demographic doesn't know how, nor have the tools to do it. Forget about the "I don't have time" BS... I run a billion dollar business for a major Fortune 200 company, but somehow do it... The owners of BMWs are largely city dwellers who enjoy (rightly so) the convenience of having the dealer take care of stuff. If it breaks-dealer, maintenance, dealer... I saw a guy come in the other day while I happened to be there who wanted his tire pressure checked... I almost asked him to relinquish his "man card", but refrained... Feel free to flame the resident Redneck on the board...

i'm with you. my father owns a body shop and im fortunate enough to know how to use a ratchet. i love working on my own stuff.(oil, brakes etc.) but if shit breaks, i will take it to the dealer. lol
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      04-07-2016, 05:09 PM   #38
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Agreed.
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      04-11-2016, 12:43 AM   #39
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Anyone know the torque specs for the filter cover/housing and drain plug?

I know I'm anal retentive that way.
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      04-17-2016, 11:30 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HXS View Post
Anyone know the torque specs for the filter cover/housing and drain plug?

I know I'm anal retentive that way.
Post #23 above for drain plugs with fresh crush washer tq spec. As for the filter cover, use a white (or light color) paint marker to indicate the position before you remove it. I believe the factory already have this marked on the filter cover and the metal base plate, you're supposed to get close to that mark as tightening it. But really you just tighten the plastic cover until it seats flush against the metal plate, there are rubber O-ring so no need to over tighten it.

Racer Louis Thanks for the DIY post.

I stopped changing my own oil between changes as my dealer only charge $102 USD for an oil change. That means I would only save $25 doing it on my own, not worth the hassle.

I do need this from your post, makes it easy to top off oil.

http://www.amazon.com/Assenmacher-Sp.../dp/B002N2T3OM
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      05-17-2016, 05:01 PM   #41
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      05-19-2016, 01:21 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racer Louis View Post
What I use, but not on my M5, is a quick connect fitting that replaces the drain plug. It uses a matching female connector that you can attach a piece of garden hose to to direct the draining oil directly into a container. The male piece stays on the car, it comes with a protective screw on cover.

I haven't put one on the M5 for two reasons--1) I'll still take the car to the dealer for the scheduled services and the techs & dealer won't want to use them and assume the risk of being charged with the loss of an engine if something were to go wrong with it at any time after the service, and 2) I don't like the idea of putting something on the oil pan drain that protrudes farther down and has a greater (albeit minor) risk of getting hit if it isn't otherwise protected.
I ordered the quick disconnect from Pegasus, good fast service and the piece is high quality. I'll have it on the car before the last oil change under warranty and I don't think my dealer will have a problem with it. I'll just have to make sure I don't forget to take the mating part with the hose for the mechanic! I had some worry over the protective cap vibrating off, but it feels like the o-ring on the base will secure it adequately when it's tightened.

I was a Mobil One 0W - 40 user but for some reason they've lost the LL-01 BMW rating. The Castrol Edge 0W - 40 still has it, so that's what I bought. I have to think that's more of a business agreement between Castrol and BMW than any change in the Mobil One oil.

Another small part of changing your own oil, the drain pan. Napa has a large capacity plastic pan (over 4 gallons) with a handy pour spout. I'm not fortunate enough to have a proper lift, so my car is on jack stands when I change the oil. The spout allows me to transfer the old oil to the 5 quart containers with no mess for transport to the gas station for recycle. The Napa part number is 821-8033, $27 at my store.
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      05-27-2016, 05:55 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GarbageMan View Post
It does, just make sure they have it included.
This surprised me when my guy did the first oil service after i bought the car, i bought the recommended OEM Mahle OX353/7D filter and it came supplied with the wrong sized washer, it was really large and believe the 550i use the larger washer when looked at realoem
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      07-09-2016, 10:05 AM   #44
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Thanks for the DIY! How much quarts of oil do you normally put in?
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