hey say

[NightM]

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[ur20v]

I don't think the work to clean your inlets of the gunk is convient and how hard is it to make and pour in a 50/50 mix of water meth?. Anyway I guess you will have to clean your throttle bodys regularly to remove the gunk from the Boost Juice or move the jets to post throttle bodys in the inlet manifolds.

I wonder if this gunk is coating you intakes and valves, you could have bigger problems coming!!

[MissionPerformance]

Originally Posted by ur20v

I don't think the work to clean your inlets of the gunk is convient and how hard is it to make and pour in a 50/50 mix of water meth?. Anyway I guess you will have to clean your throttle bodys regularly to remove the gunk from the Boost Juice or move the jets to post throttle bodys in the inlet manifolds.

I wonder if this gunk is coating you intakes and valves, you could have bigger problems coming!!

That is very true. There is just no reason to run "BoostJuice", aside from marketing/cool factor. Boost Juice is just a brand name, and nothing more to it, just like Royal Purple. The main advantage of water with slight mix of meth is the cleaning factor. I tell all of our customers to add meth/water injection not to make more power, but to clean the carbon build up. Compared to N55, S63/N63 is a very difficult motor to clean carbon build up and water injection is the best thing you can do to extend the cleaning intervals, in many cases doubling or even tripling them.
In the end of the day, boost juice does the complete opposite. Because of the coloring added to it, you get a high amount of deposit on your valves and other parts, thus decreasing eh cleaning intervals.

[NightM]

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[A Frankfurt]

Originally Posted by MissionPerformance

That is very true. There is just no reason to run "BoostJuice", aside from marketing/cool factor. Boost Juice is just a brand name, and nothing more to it, just like Royal Purple. The main advantage of water with slight mix of meth is the cleaning factor. I tell all of our customers to add meth/water injection not to make more power, but to clean the carbon build up. Compared to N55, S63/N63 is a very difficult motor to clean carbon build up and water injection is the best thing you can do to extend the cleaning intervals, in many cases doubling or even tripling them.
In the end of the day, boost juice does the complete opposite. Because of the coloring added to it, you get a high amount of deposit on your valves and other parts, thus decreasing eh cleaning intervals.

That is an interesting point you brought up about the chemical properties in "boost juice".
Do you have any pictures from the engines that you have discovered this on ?
Thanks for sharing as I have installed a few methanol kits and used the supplied boost juice. Most of my clients already stitched to pure methanol.

[ur20v]

As methanol and distilled water flash to leave zero deposit it looks like the dye and any other additives and impurities (not using distilled water!?) are the cause of the pink gunk from Boost Juice.

All alcohol are solvents, and in pure form, all can be used for cleaning purpose. They all evaporate and leave no residue behind and why they are used to clean glass and lens etc.

Distilling water removes all the mineral impurities and why its used in steam irons, mops and again for cleaning.

[m5james]

Being an X5M owner, I don't have flash tuning for meth available to me yet, so at this time I was going to go very simple by using windshield washer fluid for the water cleaning, meth for a little added octane and then some Heet to increase the meth ratio. If Boost Juice is bad because of its dyes, I'm guessing a novice using the cheaper approach via windshield washer fluid is even worse off since it's got a slight amount of gylcol in it.

Has anyone installed their nozzles post TB then vs the much simpler pre TB? I've got an HFS-4 kit ordered, so I'd rather do it right since newly found informative threads like this are popping up as people are pushing the limits and/or these cars are getting older and longer term issues are showing up.

[MissionPerformance]

ur20v said it perfectly pretty much. Pure alcohol actually leaves white/grey residue after combustion. When we mix it with more then 40% water, the vapor from water actually takes the residue away. That is reason why I usually run 50% meth in all my cars for dyno/racing and pure DISTILLED water for daily. The vapor from distilled water cools down the intake charge as well as "steam cleans" intake parts/valves.

Alcohol and water are clear with possible slight hint of blue to them. Boost Juice adds red dye (sales tactic) that leaves major amount of residue as you saw in that video posted by OP. There is no reason to over complicated this. Simple is better in this case.

Also yes, windshield washer fluid is really not good. You can get away with using higher water/fluid ratio, but its better to run pure water. You can use the factory tank for your water/meth injection, that is not an issue.

[m5james]

Unless I misread read the information, I saw something that eluded that running water-only decreases compression because now there's water particles taking up the space of fuel particles. I'm fine running a 50/50 mix of distilled water and a dye-free meth, I just thought I'd go cheap with washer fluid/Heet in the meantime since I'm not getting the full benefits of the system yet. 50/50 of M1 and distilled water it is.

The HFS-4 kit I ordered is with the two gallons tank option, so while I considered repurposing the washer fluid bottle (I'm in Seattle, it's not like the window doesn't get wet without washer fluid lol), it's too late now.

[NightM]

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[m5james]

Originally Posted by F10M5Manual

Well here is residue on my throttle body and limited the opening and closing of the flap,
Dealer wanted to charge me $2400 for both. So i did my own surgery cleaned them, i opened the throttle body also and check the springs and as you can see it was limiting for some reason. I use throttle body cleaned and grease it up with liquid wrench aka liquid silicone and it works got it lubricated and so far so good. Seems to pull harder.

Awesome that you did that in your parking lot. I've got a 3 car garage and I somehow still find excuses to not work on my cars lol

[NightM]

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[NightM]

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[ur20v]

Chemistry 101, as theres no deposit to leave from pour Alcohol and or distilled water there will be no residue in the inlet ports from pure M1 and distilled water... its impossible period. Alex mensioned deposits post combustion and the chemical reactions there where water and alcohol will effect the carbon and other deposit chemicals in the combustion chamber and exhaust port/manifold so cannot be compared or attributed to the gunk in the inlet track pre combustion from additives or poor selection of chemicals.

I wouldn't use a screen wash with gylco- have you ever seen the crystaline residue left from a small weep on a cooling system like the weep hole on a water pump or loose clip on a hose?

Some screen washes are clear of suficants (soaps), gylco and other additives but they are hard to find. I know some from sweden like Saab and Volvo OEM fluid due to the cold but they can't be shipped due to there high alcohol content and fire risk.

If pure methanol is hard to find look for another alcohol like Isopropyl (isopropanol/Rubbing Alcohol) or methylated spirits (just not the purle coloured on- you need the clear one), just check your pump is OK with these alcohols- they all have similar effects of combustion, IATs and fueling properties (calories).

[m5james]

Originally Posted by F10M5Manual

Get 5 fallon from aem. Much better and holds more fluid. If you have to use windshield washer tank the sensor from that doesnt read if its low from using M1 or 50/50 for some reason its something with alcohol content on the sensor not reading it from washer fluid reaervoir

$150 on eBay, not bad. I'm just curious how hard it'd be to make it work perfectly with the HFS-4.

[ur20v]

easy... just connect line from the AEM to the pump, same for all tanks- they tend to use the same fittings and nylon piping.

I used Aquamists tanks to my BMS system.

[m5james]

I'm thinking of more along the lines of the fluid level sensor of an AEM tank working with the Aquamist dashboard gauge. Ironically my kit shipped out today before I could cancel the tank, so we'll see how tired I get of frequently filling only two gallons.

[NightM]

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[ur20v]

As its appart why not move your jets to the ther side of the throttles...

[NightM]

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[ur20v]

Perfect time- let us know if you can select a suitable area for the jets.

[apexlocator]

ur20v you've mentioned in other threads that you're running aquamist water/meth. Where are your jets positioned?