Engine seized? Need some help!

[danbk]

Hey guys, unfortunately I believe my engine is Toast.

Driving on the freeway, sport settings, downshifted into second gear to roughly 6500 RPM, car is DCT. Car limped and engine shut off within 2 seconds. I was on a ramp and somehow managed to pull it aside on an high incline. Car had no signs of ticking or knocking, engine oil was changed 1 month ago, and I filled up the oil recently to max. I check the engine oil every week or so and it was at max. Had the car towed(disaster) as we couldn't get into it Neutral so we had to literally drag it on a flatbed(twice). After hours of roadside and towing, got it to my BMW mechanic, and he said the engine is most likely seized, with oil probably running extremely low. We checked for leaks, and I have a garage where there is 0 oil leak in my driveway. There were NO knocks, as I know these rod bearing issues and always kept an ear out for it. Went to 3 reputable BMW shops, and they told me it is 99% seized. It cranks with one tick and then just dies. No engine noise, battery charged. Can't be the starter because it happened at highway speed I'm assuming. Everyone is telling me the scenario that I need a new engine, complete swap, which I can't afford and don't want to do(due to resale difficulty). They all suggest not to rebuild, since it will cost a little less but more complicated and riskier.

Anyone have a similar experience? Car is completely stock, 50k Miles. I maintained the car well, did all fluid changes, pan changes, plug, ignitions, filters, all of the regular Maintenance.

I am really worried on dropping $15K+ on a USED Motor swap, as the car cost me roughly $<50K. Car ran totally fine, of course it was driven the way an M6 is meant to be, but not often.

Any input/advice and opinions would be appreciated, I'm really hoping for something less severe. Thanks for your time!


Got a potential deal for a complete motor swap for roughly $8500 with labor, motor has approx 30k miles. Is it worth just to rebuild it? Not looking to do anything past a tune and catless dp. Anyone think I just rebuild for the long run? Still trying to figure out how this happened, but requires a full tear apart which will run me 1-2k for labor alone. No knocking noise whatsoever for rod bearings . Anyone do a rebuild lately? Cost?

[apexlocator]

Seized? So sorry to hear. So how how much oil did you drain after it died? Maybe it was a faulty oil level sensor....? Any codes thrown?

Been following these build threads and its going to cost MUCH more to build out vs. Replace with another motor.

[danbk]

Didn’t try draining the oil or checking for metal yet. The sensor was always working for the time I had it. Every 1500-2k miles I would check the level for oil and I’d add a quart . Measure it few hours later and it’s say max, then check again 500 miles later and see it drops about a 1/4. I just did a fresh oil change, about 2k miles ago, checked oil 1k miles later, did same procedure . Seemed fine. Absolutely 0 codes, other than rear differential lock due to the tow truck dragging it. How much is an average rebuild? Maybe the engine was minimally damaged? We tried to turn the shaft with the tool both ways, it’s locked up.

[SapphireM5]

Sorry for your luck bud. First off, when you crank the engine to try and start it, the engine turns over? If it does, it's not seized. Something let go in the motor and unfortunately the only way to know for sure is pull it apart. You can do some tests to point you in the right direction. Pull all of your plugs and inspect them. Leave the plugs out and see if you can do a leak down test. Then a compression test (will require you to spin the motor but not start it). Borascope needs to be done as well. Check the valve train as well. All these tests can and should be done before pulling the motor.

These non invasive tests will start pointing you in the right direction. GL bud!

[Phatcat]

Sorry to hear, hopefully you can find what exactly happened.

[danbk]

Unfortunately it does not turn over, when I push start it , it just gives a split second attempt then doesn’t do anything else . The starter attempts to but it fails.

[danbk]

They tried to manually turn it over both ways with their tools, took them quite some time since it’s so tight below the engine, but tried both ways no luck, locked in there.

[steeve13m]

Originally Posted by danbk

Hey guys, unfortunately I believe my engine is Toast.

Driving on the freeway, sport settings, downshifted into second gear to roughly 6500 RPM, car is DCT. Car limped and engine shut off within 2 seconds. I was on a ramp and somehow managed to pull it aside on an high incline. Car had no signs of ticking or knocking, engine oil was changed 1 month ago, and I filled up the oil recently to max. I check the engine oil every week or so and it was at max. Had the car towed(disaster) as we couldn't get into it Neutral so we had to literally drag it on a flatbed(twice). After hours of roadside and towing, got it to my BMW mechanic, and he said the engine is most likely seized, with oil probably running extremely low. We checked for leaks, and I have a garage where there is 0 oil leak in my driveway. There were NO knocks, as I know these rod bearing issues and always kept an ear out for it. Went to 3 reputable BMW shops, and they told me it is 99% seized. It cranks with one tick and then just dies. No engine noise, battery charged. Can't be the starter because it happened at highway speed I'm assuming. Everyone is telling me the scenario that I need a new engine, complete swap, which I can't afford and don't want to do(due to resale difficulty). They all suggest not to rebuild, since it will cost a little less but more complicated and riskier.

Anyone have a similar experience? Car is completely stock, 50k Miles. I maintained the car well, did all fluid changes, pan changes, plug, ignitions, filters, all of the regular Maintenance.

I am really worried on dropping $15K+ on a USED Motor swap, as the car cost me roughly $<50K. Car ran totally fine, of course it was driven the way an M6 is meant to be, but not often.

Any input/advice and opinions would be appreciated, I'm really hoping for something less severe. Thanks for your time!


Got a potential deal for a complete motor swap for roughly $8500 with labor, motor has approx 30k miles. Is it worth just to rebuild it? Not looking to do anything past a tune and catless dp. Anyone think I just rebuild for the long run? Still trying to figure out how this happened, but requires a full tear apart which will run me 1-2k for labor alone. No knocking noise whatsoever for rod bearings . Anyone do a rebuild lately? Cost?

Which performance ECU tune did you use and which brand oil?

[danbk]

completely stock, no mods. Liqui-moly or mobil 1 5w-30.

[WickedBMW]

Sorry to hear about your misfortune. I always said if it something like this happened to me, I would go full rebuild. If you intend to keep your car for a while, why not rebuild it. Good luck.

[AWF10M5]

Sorry to hear.

What was the service history like? Was the break in service performed? Where did you buy the car?

I believe a rebuild might be better there is some shops in nyc area I believe a few members are getting their s63 engines built.


Btw is it just me but feels like a new thread
About a blown engine every other day now?

[AWF10M5]

By the way could this be a injector hydrolock? When you downshifted maybe it misfired and injector stuck open causing the motor to hydrolock?

[Tanin]

Sorry to hear. Sounds like a spun bearing.

If you are "stock" and recently at the 50K mark I'd contact BMWNA and make a little noise. Worth a call.

[steeve13m]

We are seeing a large trend of blown engines....anyone guess on root cause?

[bmwdinan5]

I’m interested. Mine blew last year and replaced by BMWNA. This happen within 24 hours of purchasing my car 29k

[danbk]

Service history is fine, all detailed up until about 6 months before I bought it. I did all the maintenance after that, all of it, and I always stayed on top of the car as far as potential repairs. No matter how good it was "serviced", it could have been abused by the 2 previous owners to the max, it is an M6 after all. Not many people buy these cars to baby them, especially the first one being a lease. Yes I have an m6 and posted on the f10 forum due to there probably being 5x more F10 M5 owners than M6, and no one on the 6post gave me much feedback or experience. Spoke to my SA locally, will call BMWNA later today, I previously leased 7 years from them (2011 550I, 14 650I GC, Both paid top dollar due to pre ordering) . Maybe that will encourage them to be lenient with me, still a longshot.

As far as the injector, even if it did seize due to that, is it worth for me to pay all the labor to tear it open and still replace the motor with a used one? Appreciate your help guys.

[danbk]

Also upon the downshift, it made no noise or smoke whatsoever. I'd say it started limping 2 seconds after the downshift but once I shifted to 3rd gear about 1 second after that the rpm completely dropped to 0, locking my steering wheel almost completely as well. Popped the hood, no odd smell, nothing at all.

[TLK]

Oil leak and seized when out of oil, just coincidental with your downshift? They should drain and see how much came out, look for leaks. If hydro locked I think it can be cranked with all the spark plugs removed, at which point coolant would probably come out the holes.

[steeve13m]

Originally Posted by danbk

Hey guys, unfortunately I believe my engine is Toast.

Driving on the freeway, sport settings, downshifted into second gear to roughly 6500 RPM, car is DCT. Car limped and engine shut off within 2 seconds. I was on a ramp and somehow managed to pull it aside on an high incline. Car had no signs of ticking or knocking, engine oil was changed 1 month ago, and I filled up the oil recently to max. I check the engine oil every week or so and it was at max. Had the car towed(disaster) as we couldn't get into it Neutral so we had to literally drag it on a flatbed(twice). After hours of roadside and towing, got it to my BMW mechanic, and he said the engine is most likely seized, with oil probably running extremely low. We checked for leaks, and I have a garage where there is 0 oil leak in my driveway. There were NO knocks, as I know these rod bearing issues and always kept an ear out for it. Went to 3 reputable BMW shops, and they told me it is 99% seized. It cranks with one tick and then just dies. No engine noise, battery charged. Can't be the starter because it happened at highway speed I'm assuming. Everyone is telling me the scenario that I need a new engine, complete swap, which I can't afford and don't want to do(due to resale difficulty). They all suggest not to rebuild, since it will cost a little less but more complicated and riskier.

Anyone have a similar experience? Car is completely stock, 50k Miles. I maintained the car well, did all fluid changes, pan changes, plug, ignitions, filters, all of the regular Maintenance.

I am really worried on dropping $15K+ on a USED Motor swap, as the car cost me roughly $<50K. Car ran totally fine, of course it was driven the way an M6 is meant to be, but not often.

Any input/advice and opinions would be appreciated, I'm really hoping for something less severe. Thanks for your time!


Got a potential deal for a complete motor swap for roughly $8500 with labor, motor has approx 30k miles. Is it worth just to rebuild it? Not looking to do anything past a tune and catless dp. Anyone think I just rebuild for the long run? Still trying to figure out how this happened, but requires a full tear apart which will run me 1-2k for labor alone. No knocking noise whatsoever for rod bearings . Anyone do a rebuild lately? Cost?

Buy a used engine and ship your car to BPC for an engine rebuild using stronger internals and also make more power

http://f10.m5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1365679

[danbk]

Originally Posted by TLK

Oil leak and seized when out of oil, just coincidental with your downshift? They should drain and see how much came out, look for leaks. If hydro locked I think it can be cranked with all the spark plugs removed, at which point coolant would probably come out the holes.

and if im able to crank it? Am I good to go as if nothing happened lol. I'll drain the oil in the morning. Im certain theres no leak, could be wrong.

[danbk]

Originally Posted by steeve13m

Buy a used engine and ship your car to BPC for an engine rebuild using stronger internals and also make more power

http://f10.m5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1365679

Im not looking to push more than 650-700 HP, simple tune and DP only. Maybe charcoal delete, better intakes. That's about it. Trying to really limit my budget on the repair/replace. If I bought the car new $140K then yea I would invest 20K easy into it, but seeing these cars are starting to go for $40-$50K, and now the new 8 series coming out to replace it, to only depreciate it more. Spoke to BMWNA, they said they'll only "look into it" if I take it to the dealer and do a full diagnosis, which could cost me $3k to tear apart with their ridiculous $180 Labor rate, and could still get assed out from a goodwill.

[BM dnobagaV]

Next time drive a little more peacefully.