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      01-12-2016, 06:32 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jahdish
Quote:
Originally Posted by 13M5F10 View Post
Shahin is correct - you need to plug the vacuum lines. I had same exact issue. Once plug, all that power is back!!! Experienced this first hand.

I went to autozone and picked up Vacuum plugs and a band clamp and sealed them both off.
So I just had my Turner muffler delete installed today. Looks great and sounds great. There is some drone in the 1.5-2k zone but not bad. I may be a bad judge of normal tolerance as I recenlty drove an 800 mile road trip driving a f430
Scuderia and that didn't bother me

Now the bad - My M5 feels sluggish now. The installer crimped and zip tied and on the way home I felt it was definitely not pulling close to normal. I left the crimp and zip tie and added a plug and just took out for a drive. Unfortunately it feels the same. I feel like it's a dumb question but I will ask it anyways - is there any chance that the vacuum tube being crimped is hurting my cause? Any help is greatly appreciated.
Did you check both lines? There are lines on each side. Make sure both lines are properly plugged and no leaks. Crimping is not the proper way to seal it and just a small leak can create loss of power/sluggishness.

When plugging, please use proper hose plugs and not a screw unless it's a plug of some sort that pushes in. I picked up hose caps from autozone and use a band clamp to hold it on.
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      01-12-2016, 06:39 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 13M5F10 View Post
Did you check both lines? There are lines on each side. Make sure both lines are properly plugged and no leaks. Crimping is not the proper way to seal it and just a small leak can create loss of power/sluggishness.

When plugging, please use proper hose plugs and not a screw unless it's a plug of some sort that pushes in. I picked up hose caps from autozone and use a band clamp to hold it on.
Thanks for the advice 13M5F10. I did do both sides. I'll head to autozone in the am, get rid of the crimps, add hose caps/band clamp and report back. Fingers crossed as this is not good.

What is the reason for such a small item causing such headache and difference in power?
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      01-12-2016, 07:37 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jahdish
Quote:
Originally Posted by 13M5F10 View Post
Did you check both lines? There are lines on each side. Make sure both lines are properly plugged and no leaks. Crimping is not the proper way to seal it and just a small leak can create loss of power/sluggishness.

When plugging, please use proper hose plugs and not a screw unless it's a plug of some sort that pushes in. I picked up hose caps from autozone and use a band clamp to hold it on.
Thanks for the advice 13M5F10. I did do both sides. I'll head to autozone in the am, get rid of the crimps, add hose caps/band clamp and report back. Fingers crossed as this is not good.

What is the reason for such a small item causing such headache and difference in power?
The valves are opened/closed with pressure from the turbos so if those Hosea are open its loosing pressure. That's my understanding
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      01-13-2016, 12:19 PM   #26
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This morning I got rid of the zip ties and how the vacuum tube was folded over and recapped. Just took for a 70 mile drive and she is back and pulling at all speeds like never before 😁
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      01-13-2016, 01:19 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jahdish
This morning I got rid of the zip ties and how the vacuum tube was folded over and recapped. Just took for a 70 mile drive and she is back and pulling at all speeds like never before 😁
Im assuming recapping is better inhave inserted a bolt screw there and siliconed the tread for no air can come out or in
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      01-13-2016, 02:52 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jahdish
This morning I got rid of the zip ties and how the vacuum tube was folded over and recapped. Just took for a 70 mile drive and she is back and pulling at all speeds like never before 😁
That's great news ... Glad that resolved it.
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      02-02-2016, 11:30 PM   #29
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I think this has been my nagging issue of getting random reduced power warnings since day one. The PO had removed the muffler, had it reinstalled before sale and they never reconnected the vacuum lines. I can only assume they did a terrible job of capping off the lines since I get three codes which won't go away - 310B, 2ABE and 2ABC.
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      02-03-2016, 12:47 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F10M5Manual
Quote:
Originally Posted by jahdish
This morning I got rid of the zip ties and how the vacuum tube was folded over and recapped. Just took for a 70 mile drive and she is back and pulling at all speeds like never before 😁
Im assuming recapping is better inhave inserted a bolt screw there and siliconed the tread for no air can come out or in
Didn't see anyone answer you question. Capping is a better solution unless you use actual hose plugs. I've seen several guys with screws in there's and it's not properly dealer we causing power loss. It's amazing the difference it makes once power is at full capacity. All from fucking hoses. Haha
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      02-03-2016, 07:30 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 13M5F10 View Post
Didn't see anyone answer you question. Capping is a better solution unless you use actual hose plugs. I've seen several guys with screws in there's and it's not properly dealer we causing power loss. It's amazing the difference it makes once power is at full capacity. All from fucking hoses. Haha
Never heard of capping, what is it & how is it done?
Most people recommend golf tee/ screw with silicone to seal vacuum lines - which doesn't sound thorough to me.
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      02-03-2016, 10:40 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IshR
Quote:
Originally Posted by 13M5F10 View Post
Didn't see anyone answer you question. Capping is a better solution unless you use actual hose plugs. I've seen several guys with screws in there's and it's not properly dealer we causing power loss. It's amazing the difference it makes once power is at full capacity. All from fucking hoses. Haha
Never heard of capping, what is it & how is it done?
Most people recommend golf tee/ screw with silicone to seal vacuum lines - which doesn't sound thorough to me.
This is the proper way. Either a cap or plug.

https://www.stockcap.com/store/hoses-tubing.html

Golf tee and silicone would work but it's not the proper way to do it and leaves risk for leaks down the road
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      02-23-2016, 10:43 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 13M5F10 View Post
This is the proper way. Either a cap or plug.

https://www.stockcap.com/store/hoses-tubing.html

Golf tee and silicone would work but it's not the proper way to do it and leaves risk for leaks down the road
Thanks Bro, Repped

There are a lot of different caps/plugs there! Out of the plugs, which type would you recommend to best fit the vacuum lines?

Last edited by IshR; 02-24-2016 at 03:43 AM..
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      02-23-2016, 10:48 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IshR
Quote:
Originally Posted by 13M5F10 View Post
This is the proper way. Either a cap or plug.

https://www.stockcap.com/store/hoses-tubing.html

Golf tee and silicone would work but it's not the proper way to do it and leaves risk for leaks down the road
Thanks Bro, Repped

Their are a lot of different caps/plugs there! Out of the plugs, which type would you recommend to best fit the vacuum lines?
I went with a cap style that fits over the hose. They recommend gluing those but instead I bought a hose clamp and clamped the cap down around the hose to make sure it will never come apart. $5 at autozone in total.
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      02-25-2016, 04:29 PM   #35
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Does anyone have a pic of where these vac lines are? I purchased a 2014 m5 with a Turner exhaust already on and want to double check things.
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      02-26-2016, 11:50 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apexlocator
Does anyone have a pic of where these vac lines are? I purchased a 2014 m5 with a Turner exhaust already on and want to double check things.
If you lay on your back and get under the rear of the car, if they didn't disconnect the lines, you should see them hanging on the corners behind the bumper on each side of the bumper. They can be tucked in so just reach in there and feel for the hose
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      02-26-2016, 11:53 PM   #37
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Pulled these from turners website.

You see the stock exhaust picture. The line connects to the solenoid on the left side. It will hang on that side of the exhaust.
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      03-02-2016, 03:36 AM   #38
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Thank you 13M5F10.
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      03-03-2016, 10:13 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apexlocator
Thank you 13M5F10.
No problem. I forgot to mention there are two hoses on each side that control the valves. Both connect to the the solenoid on each side of the exhaust.
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      02-04-2017, 08:48 PM   #40
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The skinny from my local shop is this:

---
The waste gate actuators need vacuum to pull them closed to build boost. Having those lines open in the rear was acting like having a hole in a straw and trying while trying to drink from it. Vacuum pump could not make enough vacuum to pull them shut with the lines open like that.
---

Maybe only a 2013 M5 issue? But it's the real deal.
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      06-20-2018, 03:22 PM   #41
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Hey guys,

I am thinking of getting the turner exhaust and have some questions. I understand the stock exhaust has to be cut to install the turner. Where does it have to be cut? Also, how does the turner fit on - do I just clamp it on or does it need to be welded? Also, does anyone know if this would void warranty? Since its only a muffler delete I am guessing not but wanted to get you guys' feedback.
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