06-13-2014, 06:26 PM | #1 |
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The metal wire $5 exhaust mode
I want to just tell everyone that you MUST, I repeat, you MUST do this mod. There is just so much difference between the regular exhaust and the one with flaps wired open, it's unbelievable. And just the fact that it only costs $5 (in fact, for me it cost $2) and 5-10 minutes of your time is ridiculous. Especially during start up and city cruising under 2000 rpm, the car takes an entirely different personality. Everytime I start it, it feels like a bomb exploded underneath!
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06-13-2014, 06:40 PM | #2 | |
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06-13-2014, 06:53 PM | #3 | |
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06-13-2014, 07:14 PM | #4 |
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I have to remove the wire to give you a cold start video, which I can, but not this weekend as I don't have the time and I need the car, but I can definitely try doing it during weekday next week.
Doing this is extremely easy. 1. Make sure the car is completely off. 2. Do this when the car is cold as the exhaust will be extremely hot. 3. You can lift the car using race ramps or jack to make it easy to reach, but I didn't and it was fine. 4. Using your hand, manually move the metal stick that controls the flaps and hold the flaps open. 5. Take a piece of wood, or metal (I honestly used the back of a torque wrench) and stick it into the exhaust to keep the flaps open. This is so that you don't have to hold the flaps open with one hand and wire them with another, which would be hard to do. 6. Take a nice metal wire (I got mine from home depot, galvanized steel will do just fine, just make sure it's not the thinnest one) and a bolt cutters and move the wire above the metal control arm that controls the plates and back down. There are two wholes on the vacuum assembly that connects the flaps to the exhaust, one of them is smaller than the other. You basically insert the wire from one hole, move it above the metal control arm, and bend it back down and insert it to the other hole. Then simply either use pliers or your hand (the wire I used was extremely hard to do this with hand) and make both wires meet and start turning them. Do it as tight as you can as you don't want the wire or the flap to move as you hit rough road. The entire mod took me less than 15 minutes for both exhausts combined. |
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06-13-2014, 09:30 PM | #7 | |
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I got the Exhauste Meister and works nicely and control over valve is the best part of it from the HomeLink you can open valve!! Very nice at least 20% louder deeper !! What I am not sure of is whether this what competition package sound is like or there's more to the CP than just open valves!! Baffles delete? |
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06-13-2014, 09:51 PM | #8 |
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Drives: '24 X7 M60i
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Try driving with your back seats folded down. I left mine down for a few days after I had something back there and it sounded great.
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'25 M5 Touring (on the list, first slot) '24 X7 M60i '22 M5 CS - (sold) |
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06-13-2014, 10:11 PM | #9 |
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06-14-2014, 02:02 AM | #10 |
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Current : 2020 F92 Black Sapphire M8 - ZF8
Gone : 2018 F80 Mineral Gray M3 - 6MT Gone : 2016 F82 Austin Yellow M4 - 6MT Gone : 2013 F13 Sakhir Orange M6 -7DCT Gone: 2013 F13 Alpine White 650i -ZF8 |
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06-14-2014, 06:52 AM | #12 | |
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06-14-2014, 09:18 AM | #13 | |
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So I have a question, if the engineered AM exhausts incorporate the valve and BMW put the valve in, don't you think it might serve a useful purpose? Anyway, there is only one valve, the other pipe is open. Here is a cutaway view of the OEM exhaust courtesy of IND. |
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06-14-2014, 05:19 PM | #14 | |
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2014 ///M5 CP Tanzanite Blue/Cohiba - 11.15 @ 128.8 & 1.84 60' (2150' DA) - BPM Tune - MSR Intake - SSP DCT - SS DPs & HFC Mid Pipes/X-Over - E Race Muffs - 19" MT DRs... On to a new home.
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06-14-2014, 06:02 PM | #16 |
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The valve is entirely for noise reduction. It does not impact the mileage and performance. Its a mechanical and pressure controlled valve.
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06-19-2014, 05:32 PM | #17 |
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I attempted to do this just now and failed. For whatever reason,I couldn't locate the smaller of the two holes...
Couldn't find any wires at home depot so I used coat hanger btw |
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