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      05-07-2014, 08:14 AM   #23
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It's not like you're simply mixing oils and they adapt to the middle ground guys; you actually end up with the cold start benefits of the 4 1/2 litres of 0W-30, and the high temp/track benefits of the 4 1/2 litres of the 10W-60.
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      05-07-2014, 12:34 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thebishman View Post
It's not like you're simply mixing oils and they adapt to the middle ground guys; you actually end up with the cold start benefits of the 4 1/2 litres of 0W-30, and the high temp/track benefits of the 4 1/2 litres of the 10W-60.
Bish
Bish, wouldn't it be a concern, especially with a new engine, to use the 60? Looks to viscous to me, even for hard use.
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      05-08-2014, 06:03 AM   #25
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I have been running Fuchs Titan GT1 Pro 10-60 for about 10k miles. No problems at all, engine feels smoother and quieter.
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      05-08-2014, 09:02 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Olmos64 View Post
Bish, wouldn't it be a concern, especially with a new engine, to use the 60? Looks to viscous to me, even for hard use.
First of all I would only use the recommended oil weight during break-in. After the 1200 mile service and ONLY during warm weather conditions, (track season), would I then use the 10W-60, and in the 50/50 mix with the 0W-30. I believe that you'd get the advantages of both weights with the added bonus of protecting the engine better, along with lower oil temps, during spirited driving in warm/hot weather conditions. Remember the Castrol TWS Motorsport 10W-60 is what we used in our beloved E60 M5's; it's a great racing oil IMHO.
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      05-09-2014, 07:14 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by smithy23 View Post
So I desperately needed to come up with a solution to this burning oil problem. I was at a stage whereby I am using 1 litre every 800 miles.

So after carrying out some research I have replaced the oil with 10w60 race oil from castrol.

Surprisingly the bottle says Mpower approved.

The car feels a little quieter at idle (engine wise)

Nothing else really to report apart from 250 miles in and the oil measure screen is still showing full.

Lets see what happenss.

On what may be a completely separate note my car seems to pop and bang a lot more exhaust wise. I don't know if this is an age thing or something else?


I'll keep everyone informed on the oil consumption
Switching from the F10 approved oils (which range from 0W-30 to 0W-40 and includes 5W-30 & 5W-40) to the previous M5s from the E39 (and E9x M3s) 10W-60 will likely cause long term problems, typically including premature main and rod bearing wear. Using a heavier oil (even though "viscosity" isn't just a thickness measurement but a temperature range measurement as well) will result in higher oil pressure but more importantly SLOWER oil flow in the engine. This will generally result in less lubrication in high force locations, like bearings, and higher operating temperatures at those points.

If it were my car I wouldn't use the 10W-60!

In addition, if you want a car that doesn't use oil (mostly blow-by past the piston rings) you'd be better off with a Lexus. If you want a high performance motor you don't want the ring to cylinder wall clearance tight enough to prevent blow-by as it just results in more friction & heat.
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      05-10-2014, 07:39 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smithy23 View Post
So after carrying out some research I have replaced the oil with 10w60 race oil from castrol.

Surprisingly the bottle says Mpower approved.
My hazy memory of the various articles I've read tells me the new oil specification was dictated by the use of the turbochargers, and the need to cool those very hot bearings without leaving burnt deposits on them. The engine itself will probably work sufficiently well with the 10w60 oil, but over time the turbos may not...... Is this the first Mpower engine to use turbos? The 10w60 was certainly approved for the previous M engines, hence the Mpower label.
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      05-15-2014, 04:16 PM   #29
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Quick update, 1000 miles no oil used and the car is now giving me 265 miles London city driving. This has risen from 225 to 230 before the oil change.

I am now starting to enjoy the car.
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      05-17-2014, 02:39 PM   #30
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I would have gone with Mobil 1 0W-40 first...
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      06-06-2014, 09:43 AM   #31
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Hey guys since my last post my engine has seized!!!!

Only kidding, what I did notice is that day by day my car was feeling more and more sluggish. No oil use, better economy but the engine felt lazy.

The car drove perfectly but on cold start the engine was very lumpy and would raise revs higher than normal to reach warm up.

Overall although my original problem of oil burn seemed to be cured I just felt like the engine wasn't running as right as it should.

So, I have now had the oil changed to Mobil 5w/30 oil as per the recommendation in the hand book.

It took a day it so for the car to adjust. These cars are very intelligent. I am not sure but I believe it can detect the viscosity somehow.

Second day the car drove as it used to pre experiment.
Now a week later the car is driving brilliantly. It is regained it's responsiveness and is it's old snappy self again.

So the result of the experiment is:

1621 miles zero oil used with 10w60 castrol

Car felt good to start with but performance sloped off.
Engine sound was a worry alongside the guilt every time I wanted to put my foot down.

Now instead of shell helix which is the oil supplied by BMW I have put in Mobil 1
LL04

Roughly 300 miles in and no use so far.

Lets see what happens.
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      06-17-2014, 09:40 AM   #32
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Smithy23

Thanks for your posts. I have the exact same problem and coming from an M3 which drank as much oil in 3.5 years as my F10 last few months has started to concern me. I know London traffic certainly doesnt help.

I was local to Spires of Highgate for a top up bottle and they insisted shell helix 5/30 was fine. My normal dealer Park lane which you may know is the only garage owned by BMW UK wasnt overly impressed when they heard this. Should have been Castol edge 0/30!

Either way, keep us posted!

cheers
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      06-18-2014, 02:48 AM   #33
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Hi jet how old is your car?

I'm noting that different oils have different characteristics. My car was burning oil like crazy but with the oil change it has dropped one notch in 600 miles. Remember the shell helix set up would be close to burning off the whole litre by now.
Get in touch if you need any help
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      06-18-2014, 05:00 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racer Louis View Post
Switching from the F10 approved oils (which range from 0W-30 to 0W-40 and includes 5W-30 & 5W-40) to the previous M5s from the E39 (and E9x M3s) 10W-60 will likely cause long term problems, typically including premature main and rod bearing wear. Using a heavier oil (even though "viscosity" isn't just a thickness measurement but a temperature range measurement as well) will result in higher oil pressure but more importantly SLOWER oil flow in the engine. This will generally result in less lubrication in high force locations, like bearings, and higher operating temperatures at those points.

If it were my car I wouldn't use the 10W-60!

In addition, if you want a car that doesn't use oil (mostly blow-by past the piston rings) you'd be better off with a Lexus. If you want a high performance motor you don't want the ring to cylinder wall clearance tight enough to prevent blow-by as it just results in more friction & heat.
Exceptionally well said. I agree with every word.
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      06-18-2014, 03:14 PM   #35
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If that engine blows you screwed, that Oil is NOT recommended at all for the F10, it can't get round quickly and may not get to all the areas needing Oil due to viscosity especially under high load.
Big risk IMO. Good luck with it.
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      06-20-2014, 03:47 AM   #36
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Is royal purple brand 5W-30 synthetic OIL good to use on the m5?
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      06-20-2014, 04:24 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N.S.A View Post
Is royal purple brand 5W-30 synthetic OIL good to use on the m5?
USE CASTROL EDGE 0-30
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Last edited by JOHNBMWM5; 06-20-2014 at 04:30 AM..
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      06-20-2014, 01:21 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JOHNBMWM5 View Post
USE CASTROL EDGE 0-30
thank you But the dealer uses 5w30 so I put 1 quart of 0W-30 WHAT difference would it make?
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      06-29-2014, 02:38 PM   #39
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You can mix 5w-30 and 0w-30 without consequence. Even says so in the handbook
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      03-25-2017, 07:39 PM   #40
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So what fixed this issue ? I am having same problem . Every 600-700miles add 1 qt no sign of oil leak. Car has 40k on it and I'm the second owner
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      07-09-2017, 07:49 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smithy23 View Post
Hey guys this is one of the bits of evidence that prompted me
Thats called a marketing ploy not evidence
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      07-09-2017, 09:58 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blown__m3 View Post
So what fixed this issue ? I am having same problem . Every 600-700miles add 1 qt no sign of oil leak. Car has 40k on it and I'm the second owner
lol I had same issue lol went from:
5W30= every 500-600 miles
Then switched to 0W40
0W40= 800 miles

No signs of leakage, ticks, codes, oddities etc lol
I guess better oil= less consumption. I have seen this Varry where some people get 0* consumption and other 500-600 miles (stock and moded)
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      07-10-2017, 04:41 PM   #43
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I use Castrol 10-60 from brand new, never uses any oil as its slightly thicker than 0-30, Castrol edge is the nuts, but may try Castrol 5-40 next, but for turbos you need high heat protection
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      07-10-2017, 05:27 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2016-M5 View Post
I use Castrol 10-60 from brand new, never uses any oil as its slightly thicker than 0-30, Castrol edge is the nuts, but may try Castrol 5-40 next, but for turbos you need high heat protection
How many miles on car with 10w/60?
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