Gtechniq Or Opti-coat Opinions/reviews?

[jimjim97]

Hey guys 2nd post and a newb here. Question...Anyone have the gtechniq or opti-coat done? If so was it worth it? Or which one is better. Ordering my new M5 tomorrow and i know i got a ways to go but just future planning!! Any help would be awesome.

[PatrickC23]

I had Opti Coat done on my '13 M5 and my wife's Jeep Wrangler. I cant compare it to anything else other than not having it on any previous cars, but it does make water bead off still (after two years) in rain and when I wash it and I have yet to wax it.

Having done research on it back then, it was a no brainer to protect from bird shit, salt and gunk. Washing is easier a well. For the Jeep, seemed senseless to do it, but it was much cheaper given it had a hardtop. Over this past winter I washed it once and it was covered in sand and salt for most of the time and it looked brand new after the wash.

At the time I did the Jeep, my detailer had already soured on Opti and was pushing C-Quartz (sp). Regardless, for an M5, I'd get something on there if you own it or are meticulous about it.

[cassidysdad]

i have opti coat on my f10 and the wife's x5
seems to work well
make an appointment after delivery
don't have the dealer wash your car at delivery

[Mr Clean]

I've applied Gtechniq's C1 crystal lacquer twice last year (within a three month period) myself as well as all prep work necessary to apply C1. Being that C1 is a permanent coating the surface below the sealant must be polished to 'perfection' since it will be very difficult to do after the C1 cures, and any imperfections will be highlighted once the C1 is applied. I started my prep work by washing (claying wasn't necessary for me but it is usually required if the car has contaminants embedded in the paint such as overspray), drying the entire car including door hinges, mirror pockets, the gas pocket, door jambs ect with compressed air to displace as much water as possible, followed by a light polish using a dewalt rotary/M205 /LC white "light" correction pad, 3M ultrafine/LC blue finishing pad and wipe down with 50/50 Ipa to remove any polishing oils. Since my car is jet black and the paint is more sensitive for whatever reason, I had to be careful with the Ipa since when removing the oils there was little lubricity which marred the paint no matter how light the pressure ( this was also the same with the G-techniq panel wipe). After a short break I started to apply the C1 one panel at a time. Here's the thing with C1, once you apply it and start to wipe the excess off shortly after, you are actually spreading it around to facilitate even coverage and if you use a microfiber cloth which has already wiped a few panels, the microfiber wont wipe "clean". In other words, the microfiber will deposit residue where ever you stop wiping. In my case, I wiped the rear quarter panel and continued to wipe part of the bumper but since the microfiber wiped a couple panels before (despite inverting the cloth) I saw the excess residue when I took the car out the next day on the bottom part of the back bumper (which is where I removed the cloth from the paint after wiping). I had to polish the C1 all the way down and reapply. Make sure to use adequate lighting and inspect the paint from every angle before the C1 cures. and by adequate lighting I dont mean the sun or some lamp. I used a combination of halogen and LED lights to inspect my work (except that one part by the bumper I forgot to use another microfiber for ). The halogen lights will put off a good amount of heat so make sure you have at least 4 feet away from the paint to prevent to surface from curing the C1 too quickly by heat. Additionally, the C1 will harden after wiping a couple panels so have a few on hand (4-6 is ideal). Toss the used ones in a bucket of hot water and microfiber cleaner if you wish to salvage them. another tip is to NEVER use an applicator that has fallen to the ground of gathered dirt as you will be reintroducing contaminants onto your paint. I found the make up pad remover things my gf uses to be an excellent substitute or a small microfiber applicator (the rectangular kind detailed image sells). Another tip is to wipe the C1 shortly after applying it to prevent hardening. Basically, follow all the directions and you will be golden.

For me the C1 is a godsend. Washing my car with c1 is as simple as applying soap via pressure washer letting it sit for a little bit, using a wash mitt if I feel like it, washing the soap off via pressure washer, displacing the water via compressed air or leaf blower and applying a spray wax or detailer. *You can layer C1 after it cures or apply different products on top of it altogether. If you apply say Meguiars ultimate wax over the C1, then you will have the paint protection offered from MUW instead of the C1, up until the MEW wears off.

[jimjim97]

Thanks...i think im going to look around and have pro do it....i wish i had the time to do it myself but i would probably screw it up!!