[syjsss213]

Hi All,

First post from me. My e90 started to clunk loudly even during slow drive yesterday. My mechanic says the front U-joint failed, and the part is $450 for used one or $940 for OEM. The labor he charged is $100. I searched around and people are saying the u-joint should last long. Could anyone check the picture and tell if the whole draft needs to be replaced?

The car is 2007 328xi, with 97,000 kmile on it.

Thanks

[mankytron]

I would say you likely need a new driveshaft. The yolk on the transmission is broken and the yoke on the driveshaft itself looks damaged and may be weakened. Get a used one and have check the joint for rust/notchy movment, and free play, as it should none of those. I would think a cross kit would be available to replace a bad joint but I am not sure. BMW may not sell them but a driveshaft shop maybe could get one.

[TheSt|G]

You have a pretty serious oil leak from the looks of it...

[syjsss213]

Originally Posted by TheSt|G

You have a pretty serious oil leak from the looks of it...

It used to have leakage from oil pan, my mechanic fixed it but hasn't got chance to do a power wash.

[Makeuwunder]

Look on ebay. I had same thing happen to my wife's 325xi. Bought used one for $60 on ebay. Changed it out my self. Very easy job to do. Replace the eight screws four front four rear and your done. Total cost was about $80

[syjsss213]

Originally Posted by Makeuwunder

Look on ebay. I had same thing happen to my wife's 325xi. Bought used one for $60 on ebay. Changed it out my self. Very easy job to do. Replace the eight screws four front four rear and your done. Total cost was about $80

Thank Makeuwunder, your comment really helps !!!

I search on Ebay, and the price varies from $50-$200, and take 3-5 days for shipping. I ended up picking up a used one at local junk yard, at $150, and pay $100 to my mechanics to install it. Although he feels very uncomfortable about a third-party part.

[Makeuwunder]

I wouldn't worry to much about it being second hand. Also you can drive without the front shaft on. I took mine off for about 3 months until I could find a deal. But to let you know man save the $100 to the mechanic. It's literally a 10 min job.

[BKV122]

Same happened to my drive shaft. Went to a local junk yard and got it for $100 and installed my self.

[Snypa]

Originally Posted by BKV122

Same happened to my drive shaft. Went to a local junk yard and got it for $100 and installed my self.

I have yet to find our cars in junk yard. I don't know where they all go.

Nonetheless...Nice find !

[syjsss213]

Originally Posted by Makeuwunder

I wouldn't worry to much about it being second hand. Also you can drive without the front shaft on. I took mine off for about 3 months until I could find a deal. But to let you know man save the $100 to the mechanic. It's literally a 10 min job.

Hi,

I couldn't take the aluminum bolts out. Do I need special tool to remove this star-shape bolt? It is 3/8 inch, but my regular wrench start slipping on it.

Also, how do I get new bolts for? It looks not reusable. Do I need specific torque to fix it?

Thanks a lot

[Makeuwunder]

Originally Posted by syjsss213

Hi,

I couldn't take the aluminum bolts out. Do I need special tool to remove this star-shape bolt? It is 3/8 inch, but my regular wrench start slipping on it.

Also, how do I get new bolts for? It looks not reusable. Do I need specific torque to fix it?

Thanks a lot

I just used a torx socket with short extension and you can get the bolts at ecs tuning part number 26117529387 (QTY 8). I used a little bit of blue lock- tite. I just torqued them good and tight. Was to lazy to search for the specific value.

[syjsss213]

Originally Posted by Makeuwunder

I just used a torx socket with short extension and you can get the bolts at ecs tuning part number 26117529387 (QTY 8). I used a little bit of blue lock- tite. I just torqued them good and tight. Was to lazy to search for the specific value.

Thanks a lot for the information

Got the e-torx socket and it works well. But on front side is under the oil tank, and has very little space to turn the bolts. Also, driveshaft cannot be turned, so two of the four bolts are inside, looking impossible to reach...

[stashtrey]

Originally Posted by syjsss213

Thanks a lot for the information

Got the e-torx socket and it works well. But on front side is under the oil tank, and has very little space to turn the bolts. Also, driveshaft cannot be turned, so two of the four bolts are inside, looking impossible to reach...

Why can't you rotate your front wheels to turn the shaft? You might want to get an electric or battery powered impact gun. Got one a year ago at Lowes and it works phenomenally,!!!

[dinanm3atl]

That U-Joint is thrashed. At least have to replace the rear section. I'd look at a rebuilt drive shaft and replace the whole thing.

Then find out where the leak is coming from.

[syjsss213]

Originally Posted by stashtrey

Why can't you rotate your front wheels to turn the shaft? You might want to get an electric or battery powered impact gun. Got one a year ago at Lowes and it works phenomenally,!!!

Yeah, turning the wheel can rotate the shaft. Found out just need an extension to reach the bolt

Good advice. Have the job done finally.

[syjsss213]

Originally Posted by dinanm3atl

That U-Joint is thrashed. At least have to replace the rear section. I'd look at a rebuilt drive shaft and replace the whole thing.

Then find out where the leak is coming from.

The car has long history of oil leakage... First from oil filter housing gasket, then from the engine valve cover, now probably from oil pan. It looks like the mechanics just want to squeeze money from the car...