06-02-2018, 08:41 AM | #1 |
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Safe levels for tunes?
With all the stories of engine failures lately, I’m a little hesitant to get my car tuned. What do you guys think is safe for a daily driven m5? I was thinking of getting bm3 stage 2 with downpipes and drop in k&n. Do you guys think that at that point the rod and bearings will be stressed at that level?
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06-02-2018, 09:34 AM | #2 |
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If you absolutely are convinced you want to tune your car and are worried about staying conservative, I would do downpipes with Stage 1 tune. Stage 2 is where torque limits of the stock clutches are seen and arguably at the limits of other engine items depending on which stage 2 tune you go with.
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06-02-2018, 12:10 PM | #3 |
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If you want to go with stage 2 you'll have to consider upgrading the clutches, as Mkai0 has mentioned, or you could ask your tuner to be more conservative on the torque.
I'd advise replacing the rod bearings every 60k miles or so, just to be on the safe side, tuned or not.
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06-04-2018, 09:13 AM | #4 |
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As others have mentioned if you are looking to get tuned and going for stage 2 it will be best to upgrade the clutches. If you want to stay conservative and daily driven but have the ability to upgrade in the future it may be best to go with a stage 1 tune and downpipes.
https://bimmerperformancecenter.com/...-m6-dme-tuning At stage 2 the risk of bending a rod is very possible. Typically around the 650-700 whp is pushing the limits of the connecting rods. To prevent bending a rod you will need to build the motor to handle the additional power and stresses increased by that. https://bimmerperformancecenter.com/...engine-package |
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06-04-2018, 09:20 AM | #5 | |
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06-04-2018, 01:12 PM | #6 |
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Those levels are where we see connecting rod failures. With our stage 1 we want to be conservative so that the owner will get the most out of the car without having tremendous amounts of down time for issues.
I know its a difficult decision because everyone wants more power but in this case its either do I make a little more power and gamble bending a rod or do I play it safe and make more power and not have to worry about bending a rod. We will be here to help no matter which route you choose |
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06-04-2018, 03:24 PM | #8 | ||
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Id probably also preface it with how you're gonna use the 650-700 if you're gonna do 200mph runs where air is molasses up top making the engine work hard, or doing high torque off the line pulls all the way though thats where I'd say you were adding risk, let alone if you aren't warming the car up properly prior to play. Quote:
high 500s/ low to mid 600s with tampered down low end torque lasts, but you crank the torque up and start trying to launch it the rods will fly. |
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06-05-2018, 10:31 AM | #10 | |
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06-05-2018, 03:01 PM | #11 | |
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**also make sure your plugs are properly gapped (BMS recommends 0.020) I use this; https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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06-05-2018, 04:25 PM | #12 |
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Starting at Stage 1 is wise IMO, especially if you're concerned. I would even advise you to try a piggy, dps, charcoal delete, drop-ins and exhaust and see how that goes. I've run this set-up on two different F10 M5's w/ zero issues, headaches.
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06-09-2018, 09:35 PM | #13 |
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Tune to 21 psi at no more than 600wtq, change oil every 3k, new plugs at .020, best fuel. Don't go WOT in 6th or 7th gear or below 2,500 rpm. Should last a long time.
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06-14-2018, 11:44 PM | #14 |
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You guys do much of anything with the S63 from the E7* X*M and have the same tips to offer about safe HP, rod bearing replacement intervals, etc?
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06-16-2018, 01:46 PM | #15 |
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I would assume since you're pushing the car to lug even more curb weight it would be added long term wear but that generally warming up the car keeping fresh oil etc. etc. would pay long term dividends if the car wasn't boosted to 660+wtrq and you were doing launch control/ dig racing stop light to stop light.
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