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      12-19-2012, 02:10 AM   #1
chudak18
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Write up of my recent H&R spring install

Hi, before taking this job on yourself, understand that I own a shop and have access to lots of different tools and equipment... please look over this write up before taking on a serious job such as this.... sometimes it's just easier to let the pros take care of it. Enjoy!

Obviously if you have access to a lift, hoist up your beast, performing this via the jack method will be a lot more difficult and dangerous.



I'll only illustrate one side of front and one side of rear, but they are identical. A simple look at our working area.



This is a picture of the sway link that will need to be removed to be able to remove the strut and replace the springs.



A shot of the mounting bolt on the control arm.



Method I used to remove the nut on the sway link.



Sway link seperated and moved to the side to allow removal of strut.



Tools used for sway link removal



A shot of the top mount of the strut



Start by popping off rubber boot



Carefully remove the EDC plug and make sure not to damage.



EDC PLUG



Three bolts that hold the strut in place, these will have to be removed.



Bolts removed and strut free



Tools necessary for removal of the bottom bolt and nut that attach strut to lower control arm. I suggest you use air tools in this case (very hard to do by hand)



Attach as shown and use the wrench to hold the nut in place as you impact the other end to remove the bolt.



Top of strut seperated from the frame.



This part is a little tricky, but with some down force on the rotor/hub assembly and some finessing of the strut itself and you should be able to gently force the strut assembly free of the hub assembly.





Strut assembly removed



A shot of the top of the strut and socket I used to remove the 'twelve point' nut







****IMPORTANT******
If you do not have access to one of these (spring compressor), stop and take your struts to a shop that has a spring compressor and have them do it for you for a nominal fee.... not worth losing an eye over... or worse, damaging your M5!!!! lol















Comparrison of the OEM spring and the H&R sport spring



Assemble the strut with the new H&R spring and use a impact gun to carefully snug the top nut





Reinstall the strut assembly and install mounting bolt and nut in lower control arm



Reinstall sway link



Align top mount to holes in frame. The srping will shift at this point with some force, get it nice and ligned up with the holes for easy reinstall.



Reinstall and tighten all bolts, and the EDC plugs and rubber boot... always be careful when handling the EDC wires and plugs.



LETS MOVE ON TO THE HARD PART.... THE REAR!!!!!

Pop the rear seat backs via latches in the trunk



Remove cap ends of rear seat by pulling on the top of the caps and then sliding out... the rear seat bottom can be easily popped out of place as well.





Once you release the end caps and rear seat backs, you will need to pull out four push tabs in the suede rear deck



Next you'll have to remove the AIRBAG cap to expose the screw holding the trim in place... this part really set me back... finding the screw was a PIA!!!





Once you remove the screws behind the caps, and you may or may not have to remove three 8mm screws in the trunk, that may or may not hold the sun shade in place (I removed them, but just as a precaution, always be careful, if it doesn't come easy, there's some thing wrong!) The rear deck should be easily slid out now!



CAUTION!!!!!!------ when the seatbelt housings are upside down, they will lock... the assemblies will think that the car is upside down... this is important when re-assembling the rear deck! You need to leave yourself room to be able to flip the rear deck and upright the seatbelt assy's.

You'll have to remove this screw to release the seatbelt assy.





This here is the rear strut mounting nuts and studs! Do NOT pull on the EDC wire on the rear struts!!!!!! They are perminantly attached... you will have to detach them from harness and fish them out with strut!!!!



This is a picture of what to expect in rear strut set up.... Take notice of the red arrows below. This stabalizing arm will need to be loosened and moved aside to be able to slide the strut assy out!!!!!!



This is the bolt that holds the strut connected to rear hub!.. Remove this.





Next you will loosen the top nuts to release the strut.



At this point you'll be able to work the rear strut out from behind the rear hub. Again pay close attention to not damage the EDC wire. You will need to again seperate the OEM spring from the strut assy, and install the new H&R spring, reassemble, and reinstall the strut assy with the new spring and reassemble the rear deck, seat backs, and other trim.

BELOW ARE SOME B4 and after pics... enjoy!!!!!









AFTER H&R SPRINGS







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      12-19-2012, 05:07 AM   #2
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Nice job and wrietup !
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      12-19-2012, 06:33 AM   #3
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Excellent pics illustration & writeup.
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      12-19-2012, 11:28 AM   #4
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Looks great!

I've read varying opinions...do the H&Rs get rid of the thunk noise in the trunk when going over speed bumps?

Thx
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      12-19-2012, 11:32 AM   #5
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Great job!

Quote:
Originally Posted by bobblehead View Post
Excellent pics illustration & writeup.
I second that compliment. Thank you so much for taking the time and effort to so clearly document the process, and give the critical little hints that will make the job much easier! One thing, are there torque values for any of those important bolts upon reassembly, not just an impact driver setting, but an actual factory assigned tightening value?
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      12-19-2012, 11:52 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Used2be View Post
I second that compliment. Thank you so much for taking the time and effort to so clearly document the process, and give the critical little hints that will make the job much easier! One thing, are there torque values for any of those important bolts upon reassembly, not just an impact driver setting, but an actual factory assigned tightening value?
Very valid question. As i was working on my personal car and trust my own work... Trust but always re-check after so many road miles.... I didn't bother looking those values up. If i can get my hands on them, i will post them up. I'll report back soon. Thanks for the questions folks.
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      12-19-2012, 11:57 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob///M5 View Post
Looks great!

I've read varying opinions...do the H&Rs get rid of the thunk noise in the trunk when going over speed bumps?

Thx
I came from a G class Mercedes and those things are rattle/thump fiends. So for me the M5 rear thump was never really worth noting... Or maybe my car just doesn't exhibit those symptoms... But post h&r install, i would say the noise from suspension is the same/similar to what it was.
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      12-19-2012, 12:01 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chudak18
[
I came from a G class Mercedes and those things are rattle/thump fiends. So for me the M5 rear thump was never really worth noting... Or maybe my car just doesn't exhibit those symptoms... But post h&r install, i would say the noise from suspension is the same/similar to what it was.
Love the G wagon. Thanks for the info.
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      12-19-2012, 01:55 PM   #9
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Wow, this looks to be very involving. Great job with the write up.
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      12-19-2012, 08:23 PM   #10
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What would a ballpark install be at your shop?
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      12-20-2012, 03:00 AM   #11
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Thanks for sharing.

How much time altogether did it take for the installation ?
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      12-20-2012, 09:10 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MCM5 View Post
Thanks for sharing.

How much time altogether did it take for the installation ?
This was my first time delving into the F10 so it took me approximately 7 hours... Given that i lost many hours trying to figure out how to take the rear deck apart and put it back together with the seat belts and all. Going back now with all the formalities out of the way, i would say armed with this write up and given you have the right tools, average of about 4 hours should be expected.
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      12-24-2012, 11:36 AM   #13
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Great writeup and pics, I had my springs installed in October and everything is good but one thing: my autoleveling headlights. They seem to be over adjusting and adjusting too much. When I drive straight they dip often and then pop back up and are relatively too high.

Was there a sensor or wire that might have been incorrectly reinstalled during my lowering process that you might know about?

Thanks for your assistance here.
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      12-24-2012, 06:01 PM   #14
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Great writeup and pics, I had my springs installed in October and everything is good but one thing: my autoleveling headlights. They seem to be over adjusting and adjusting too much. When I drive straight they dip often and then pop back up and are relatively too high.

Was there a sensor or wire that might have been incorrectly reinstalled during my lowering process that you might know about?

Thanks for your assistance here.

If I'm not mistaken the sensor for the lights is on the rear control arm of the rear driver wheel. It's a little plastic assembly consisting of two plastic bars and one attaches to control arm, the other to a sensor with a pivot point to allow for compression. It in essence measures the distance the body travels when under load or weight, ie. Extra passengers in rear. The pivot point should be towards the wheel. If it was disconnected for reasons of strut fitment/removal, there is a chance it was inverted at time of reassembly. See pic below, it is in the far right and i actually disconnected this particular assy and in the picture the elbow is facing the wrong way, should be towards wheel. If i am wrong, some one correct me.


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      12-24-2012, 10:12 PM   #15
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Thank you so much... Ill have it checked on the 26th and report and thank back
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      12-29-2012, 12:18 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chudak18 View Post
If I'm not mistaken the sensor for the lights is on the rear control arm of the rear driver wheel. It's a little plastic assembly consisting of two plastic bars and one attaches to control arm, the other to a sensor with a pivot point to allow for compression. It in essence measures the distance the body travels when under load or weight, ie. Extra passengers in rear. The pivot point should be towards the wheel. If it was disconnected for reasons of strut fitment/removal, there is a chance it was inverted at time of reassembly. See pic below, it is in the far right and i actually disconnected this particular assy and in the picture the elbow is facing the wrong way, should be towards wheel. If i am wrong, some one correct me.



You were absolutely right- the elbow on mine was facing inward. We didnt do an uninstall we just pushed the elbow the other way and now it faces the wheel and my lights dont go crazy anymore.

Thanks again.
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      12-29-2012, 05:34 PM   #17
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Good to hear. I almost did the same thing when re installing, reason it struck a note when you said what you had done to car and what was going on. Enjoy
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      01-20-2013, 10:44 AM   #18
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Chudak - so your shop, would u do spring installs on the M5?
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      01-21-2013, 01:32 PM   #19
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Excellent write-up. Although this should be just as accomplishable in one's own garage using hand tools, jacks, jack stands and a DIY spring compressor. Are there specific reasons you recommend only using a $800 spring compressor? My buddies and I have done many coilover installs using the $50 set from Sears.

BTW We plan on doing your same setup on a '13 M5 this coming weekend. The before-after is amazing!
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      01-26-2013, 12:18 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BikeGeek View Post
Excellent write-up. Although this should be just as accomplishable in one's own garage using hand tools, jacks, jack stands and a DIY spring compressor. Are there specific reasons you recommend only using a $800 spring compressor? My buddies and I have done many coilover installs using the $50 set from Sears.

BTW We plan on doing your same setup on a '13 M5 this coming weekend. The before-after is amazing!
I see you're one step ahead. Good thinking
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      01-27-2013, 12:18 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BikeGeek View Post
Excellent write-up. Although this should be just as accomplishable in one's own garage using hand tools, jacks, jack stands and a DIY spring compressor. Are there specific reasons you recommend only using a $800 spring compressor? My buddies and I have done many coilover installs using the $50 set from Sears.

BTW We plan on doing your same setup on a '13 M5 this coming weekend. The before-after is amazing!
Yes, very much doable on the floor with jack stands. Just less clearance is all. Also the $800 spring compressor is just easier and safer, heard horror stories with the two piece hand crank compressor for $50, wouldn't recommend it in writing, but again if careful, very doable. Most shops have a wall mounted compressor and they can do this step for you with out you risking one of the assemblies coming apart and hurting some one.

Quote:
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Chudak - so your shop, would u do spring installs on the M5?
Yes i can do them... Did mine, no problem to reproduce.
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      02-04-2013, 01:29 PM   #22
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Took us about 5.5 hours in my garage Saturday. Your write-up was great guidance.
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