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      02-10-2013, 02:55 PM   #45
DrewBert
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stealth.pilot View Post
Would this tool be suitable for screw #7

http://www.amazon.com/Sunex-9726-Min...sim_sbs_auto_6

build this yourself with a 1/4 socket at the torx head. if you have 1/4 ratchet it would be easier.

I used a 1/2 ratchet and built this, worked ok but 1/4 ratchet would be better (smaller)

P.S the black tape is there to hold the torx head in the socket!!
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      02-10-2013, 03:41 PM   #46
M54ccibo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrewBert View Post
build this yourself with a 1/4 socket at the torx head. if you have 1/4 ratchet it would be easier.

I used a 1/2 ratchet and built this, worked ok but 1/4 ratchet would be better (smaller)

P.S the black tape is there to hold the torx head in the socket!!
That is exactly what I did, with a 1/4" ratchet! Worked flawlessly.
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Last edited by M54ccibo; 02-10-2013 at 03:46 PM.
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      02-11-2013, 10:59 PM   #47
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Im gonna attempt to do this, are these tools easy to get? I am absolutely a GIRL when it comes to putting on my own mods. I NEED MORE POWER!!
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      02-11-2013, 11:05 PM   #48
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Not sure the M5 really needs that much more power... my car's traction control is always getting a work out -without even trying--- and in the most efficient modes. IMO - the car easily is putting out over 600hp. It's all about the traction... and once it hooks up, the car is a rocket.
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      02-11-2013, 11:22 PM   #49
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Not sure the M5 really needs that much more power... my car's traction control is always getting a work out -without even trying--- and in the most efficient modes. IMO - the car easily is putting out over 600hp. It's all about the traction... and once it hooks up, the car is a rocket.
My m5 is breaking lose daily, I agree the m5 has plenty of power but its definitely capable of more power. You just have to know how to put it down properly. Especially on certain surfaces.This car is very very dangerous. LOL
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      03-05-2013, 10:26 PM   #50
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Filter delete

My dealer mechanic did the removal in fifteen minutes. Easy way is the remove two screws and lift the whole box out. Then you can disassemble the box and take out the carbon filter. Then again he is a pro. My Nov 2012 production coupe has the block of plates, no snorkel. It seems a little peppier but hard to really say. I also have the akra exhaust as well. Waiting for a real cold air intake and software to see what it can do.
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      03-26-2013, 01:46 PM   #51
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Just went to my independent mechanic today and he opened up my air box.

No charcoal filter present at all. Just the air filter.
No bottom plate on air box as well. just a hole.

Canadian car. Built July 2012.
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      03-27-2013, 04:03 PM   #52
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I have the holes in my car is it even worth paying 300 Bucks to cover holes? Its confusing how this would increase power?
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      03-27-2013, 07:48 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lgallo9980 View Post
I have the holes in my car is it even worth paying 300 Bucks to cover holes? Its confusing how this would increase power?
For some reason BMW wanted a secondary opening into the airbox, since the latest design has the same opening you have but with a rubber snorkel installed. I'd think there's a lot of hot air inside the engine bay, and why BMW wants that air available for intake is beyond me. But then, why did they block the hole off for some cars built prior to 11/12? I'd guess an intake noise they didn't want, so if you like the way the car sounds now, why spend money to cover it? Perhaps the snorkels are available now, and for less money?
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      03-29-2013, 12:28 AM   #54
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Im sorry but you don't gain almost 70 wheel horsepower from a block off plate and charcoal removal. The first dyno is too low and something was wrong. Just no way you gain that much. You can dyno with hood open and top of airbox open and have no difference in dyno. When your dynoing there is not enough air with a fan to take advantage of the ramair and pressure build up inside the box like there is at speed so on a dyno there truly should be and will be no difference between block of plate and non for dyno run.

Charcoal is believeable as it is a restriction.

This is the problem with dyno, especially on different days. So misleading
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      04-21-2013, 07:56 PM   #55
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Guys, the dyno sheets are uncorrected. This is one reason for the high numbers.

Its probably more like 25hp (tops?) for exhaust, plates and charcoal. Thats what I would think makes sense, but this could easily be argued both ways.

I would agree with one thing, the car is faster with charcoals out and plates in places. Charcoals would restrict airflow, and plates would stop hot air from entering the intake. These are defiantly power gains. How much? We could go back and forth all day. To me, all that matters is these are easy and quick mods to do.. and you get a power increase. Really, thats all that matters (to me atleast).
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      04-21-2013, 07:59 PM   #56
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Could someone link me to the best (high quality) tool for removing the airbox screws. Also what type and size screws are they?

I am just picturing me in my garage, sweating and cursing these screws off. Defiantly want to go into it with all the right tools so it takes me 10 minutes instead of 30 frustrating minutes.

Appreciate the info.
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      04-21-2013, 10:31 PM   #57
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http://f10.m5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=797677
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      04-22-2013, 08:35 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avlnch View Post
Could someone link me to the best (high quality) tool for removing the airbox screws. Also what type and size screws are they?

I am just picturing me in my garage, sweating and cursing these screws off. Defiantly want to go into it with all the right tools so it takes me 10 minutes instead of 30 frustrating minutes.

Appreciate the info.
I have a set of flexible socket extensions like these, they worked great!
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      04-22-2013, 10:04 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warehouser View Post
I have a set of flexible socket extensions like these, they worked great!
I looked all over the place for these but only found one long flexible extension from Snap-On for around $50 and it wasn't worth it, so I struggled. Thanks, I'll be getting this set.
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      04-22-2013, 02:17 PM   #60
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So, I ended up ordering a bunch of tools.. all off Amazon. Here is all the stuff I just ordered (hopefully its everything I need).

- SNAPON 3/8 Inch Drive Flex Head Ratchet
- TEKTON 1/4 Inch Drive Torque Ratchet
- HITACHI 83 Piece General Purpose Drill And Drive Bit Set
- 4 piece Flexible Socket Extension Tools 1/4" Drive & 3/8" Drive

Reference: S63TU Charcoal Filter Removal DIY Thread
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      04-25-2013, 03:37 PM   #61
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I do not have the block off plates. I first removed the charcoal filters and noticed no significant difference. Maybe better throttle response. I heard my turbo spool under load more then before. Then I put BMC filters in. Again, improved throttle response, and heard my turbos spool more under load. This is a sound I personally enjoy. After reading all the rhetoric about the block off plates I figured I would do an experiment. I temporarily blocked that hole. I found no significant difference in power. I assume there is a possibility of gains in theory, but I can't see a 30+HP gain. To my dismay, I also lost the sound of my turbo spool. The engine kinda sounded like a jet. Kinda cool, but not what I'm looking for. I removed my blockers and I'm happy
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      04-28-2013, 09:57 PM   #62
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Hey guys - quick question that is slightly off topic. What kind of high-performance filters are you guys placing in your M5 replacing the OEM ones? Could you recommend some brands and where to buy them?

Thanks!
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      04-28-2013, 10:28 PM   #63
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BMCs ...I think that's all that is available currently. Unless you spend $3500 for the gruppe M setup.
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      05-06-2013, 05:03 PM   #64
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If you go with BMC (which are oiled) you have a good chance of your car throwing a CEL due to oil in the MAF's which will need cleaning or replacing.

If you insist on installing oiled filters, such as BMC, first open them up, out of packaging, and let them dry out for a day or two. Then install and you might have better luck with avoiding CEL and MAF issue.
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      05-07-2013, 01:50 AM   #65
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When I got my car dyno'd, I gained a substantial increase in HP after each run. Goodspeed stated that the ECU was adjusting to the driving pattern etc and would adjust after each time until it reached an optimal level. They stated that if I was going to the "drag strip" to race, it would be beneficial to do some full WOT runs beforehand.

Maybe the same happened here with the ECU and not necessarily from the mods? Sorry I dont have specifics about the M5 ECU and the way it processes, just thought I'd play devil's advocate for some food for thought.
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      05-07-2013, 12:56 PM   #66
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It would have helped to include the temperature from the 3rd run too....lower temp more HP.
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