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      08-28-2016, 11:30 PM   #1
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Problem with smooth braking

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What up everyone. I just picked up a Singapore grey f10 m5 about 2 weeks ago. Loving the car so far. In the last couple of days the brakes been jerky. I would tap it and I would also lean forward too. It gets worse from 10mph -0 mph. Sometimes it smooth and sometimes it's not. Maybe it's the dct down shifting that's why it's giving me that jerk. 600 miles on the car so far I'm going to let the dealer know when I go in for 1,200 service. My brakes did squeak when I first got it. I haven't heard it since 450 miles till now. Maybe the brake haven't been broken in yet that's why it's jerky? Or maybe the dct is lagging when downshifting when I'm stopping. Any input would be nice. Thanks!
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      08-29-2016, 12:12 AM   #2
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Lots of brake issues with the F10 M5. Jerky, noisy like semi, the list goes on. There are several SB's about it and numerous fixes depending upon your issues.
Take it to the dealer and document your complaints.
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      08-29-2016, 09:12 AM   #3
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New brakes need bedding in properly, so it's possible you over cooked them before bedding?

Are you running standard pads or the M race pads (as per comp pack cars?). I've run both and found neither to be grabby as you describe.

The race pads have much more bite and can be quite noisy in town, but still very smooth and consistent. Standard pads don't have enough bite to be grabby, and only get noisy if you drive like a girl the whole time. (Although fortunately it seems you aren't guilty of that )

You could always try violence, and give her a few seriously hard stops (as long as the brakes are warm first tho).

Otherwise, as suggested, I'd take it in.
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      08-29-2016, 11:36 AM   #4
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i have the same problem. i think it will take some practice to modulate the brake pedal pressure. since the car is front heavy a bit, the nose will dip if the brake pressure is pressed fairly quickly.
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      08-29-2016, 02:38 PM   #5
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Hey thanks for the input guys. So driving it today I don't believe it's the brakes now. when braking when the transmission is downshifting I believe there is a lag in downshift that's why I feel a jerky when stopping. It's like it's not releasing the clutch smoothly. I'm driving it in d1 too.
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      08-29-2016, 02:39 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 100%Cocoa View Post
New brakes need bedding in properly, so it's possible you over cooked them before bedding?

Are you running standard pads or the M race pads (as per comp pack cars?). I've run both and found neither to be grabby as you describe.

The race pads have much more bite and can be quite noisy in town, but still very smooth and consistent. Standard pads don't have enough bite to be grabby, and only get noisy if you drive like a girl the whole time. (Although fortunately it seems you aren't guilty of that )

You could always try violence, and give her a few seriously hard stops (as long as the brakes are warm first tho).

Otherwise, as suggested, I'd take it in.
Didn't over cooked them. I never drove it hard I'm waiting till after the break in period to do so.
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      08-29-2016, 02:40 PM   #7
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Is there a way to reset the transmission? I read somewhere that when cruising above 50mph to pull back both paddle shifter for 10 sec? Will that reset it?
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      08-29-2016, 04:26 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 100%Cocoa View Post
New brakes need bedding in properly, so it's possible you over cooked them before bedding?

Are you running standard pads or the M race pads (as per comp pack cars?). I've run both and found neither to be grabby as you describe.

The race pads have much more bite and can be quite noisy in town, but still very smooth and consistent. Standard pads don't have enough bite to be grabby, and only get noisy if you drive like a girl the whole time. (Although fortunately it seems you aren't guilty of that )

You could always try violence, and give her a few seriously hard stops (as long as the brakes are warm first tho).

Otherwise, as suggested, I'd take it in.


What do u mean "M race pads" on the comp pack cars?
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      08-29-2016, 11:51 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by momos750 View Post
Lots of brake issues with the F10 M5. Jerky, noisy like semi, the list goes on. There are several SB's about it and numerous fixes depending upon your issues.
Take it to the dealer and document your complaints.
The noise isn't an 'issue' rather a function of performance brakes... all performance cars and different marques can 'suffer' noise and spell out in their hand books that this may happen, it comes from the need to stop heavy cars from speed reliably and work from cold and in the wet. To be honest its poor sales, the saleman should be upfront that this may occur and when a customer complains to the service department they should be more robust in putting the customers expectation right and not pander and then not be able to reliable deliver a 'solution'. Having been a master tech and worked on the OEM manufactures side this IS fact.
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      08-31-2016, 09:49 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richboy View Post
Didn't over cooked them. I never drove it hard I'm waiting till after the break in period to do so.
Break in should take about 10 minutes or so. If you don't follow the correct procedure, and build the heat up to a high temp, very evenly and consistently throughout each disc, pad and caliper, then even a gentle brake can over cook them.
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      08-31-2016, 09:53 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrevorM3 View Post
What do u mean "M race pads" on the comp pack cars?
There's a harder set of pads available from BMW for the F10 M5. They cost around twice as much as standard road pads, but have an amazing bite and will not crumble under hard use as my standard pads did after 70 laps of the Nordschleife. I understand these 'M' pads are standard as part of the Competition Package, or as retrofit items on normal cars. They are made by Textar for BMW and are not available as an aftermarket equivalent. The only sensible alternative I could find was a Pagid RS29, but this is not really suitable for road use, and would invalidate my warranty,. so I went with the M pads.
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      08-31-2016, 11:11 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 100%Cocoa View Post
Break in should take about 10 minutes or so. If you don't follow the correct procedure, and build the heat up to a high temp, very evenly and consistently throughout each disc, pad and caliper, then even a gentle brake can over cook them.
What is the proper procedure?
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      08-31-2016, 12:54 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richboy View Post
What is the proper procedure?
It depends if you are bedding in new pads (on refaced discs), or new discs, so here's the whole kit and caboodle.

If you put new pads on a ready heat soaked disc, then only the first section of this process need be used. As I mentioned, it should only take 10 mins or so to get the heat through the system sufficiently to transfer some material from the pads to the disc.

I used the process on my F10 M5 to bed in my new M pads last weekend.

I've also used this process for new discs (and the first section of it for new pads only) for my E39 M5 with APs with great success too. I should also mention that I learned the hard way how NOT to do it, so I am an ex-smoker telling people not to smoke to some degree here

Courtesy of http://www.apracing.com/Info.aspx?In...3&ProductID=30

Disc Bedding For Roadcar Use
All cast iron brake discs need to be bedded-in to ensure heat stabilisation and improve resistance to cracking. Cracks or even disc failure can occur during the first few heavy stops if careful bedding is not carried out. AP Racing recommend the following procedure:-

ROAD CAR DISC BRAKE BEDDING IN PROCEDURE
Bedding the disc from new or stress relieving the cast iron disc after it has been clamped to the mounting bell is of paramount importance if premature warping is to be avoided after the brakes are used to their full potential.
AP Racing discs are produced from the same castings as our normal race discs, but when used in the controlled area of motor sport it is easy to instruct a driver to gradually bring the disc up to working temperature with some moderate braking over a small amount of measured laps, progressively increasing his braking effort until an Engineer assess the disc visually or by temperature readings.
For road car installations the process needs to be as follows:-

- For the first 10 miles, light braking from 50/60 mph down to 30 mph if possible in blocks of 5. Do not attempt any high-speed stops down to zero at this point, as only the faces will heat up with the mass remaining cool along with the mounting area.

- For the next 100 miles increase the braking pressures similar to stopping in traffic, again avoiding if possible full stops from above 70 mph. By now the area around the mounting bolts should be a light blue temper colour. This is a good indication that the correct heat soak has been achieved.

- For the next 100 miles gradually increase the braking effort after this full power stops can be used. The disc should now be an even dark to light blue temper colour, depending on the pad type and the braking effort being used during the process. This process must be completed before any race circuit use.

Track Day Use:
If used at a Track day the following points must be adhered to so as not to warp the disc.

- At the start of a session use a minimum of one warming up lap for the brakes i.e. gradually increase the effort at each corner and do not drag the brakes under power as in left foot braking.

- Use at least one cooling down lap at the end of the session and if possible stay off the brakes.

- Do not leave your foot on the brake when parked in the paddock after a track session. If you do, the hot spot created by the pad can distort the disc in that localized area causing a high spot, resulting in vibration under braking.

- On the majority of car installations, race circuit use can be more exacting on the brake system than a fully prepared race car due to the following:-
None or minimal cooling, increased chassis weight, longer braking distances due to driving technique or tyre grip.
Therefore it is very important to check your brake system thoroughly after such use. Bear in mind race cars on average cover less than 50 laps of a circuit before being serviced.
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      08-31-2016, 03:11 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 100%Cocoa View Post
There's a harder set of pads available from BMW for the F10 M5. They cost around twice as much as standard road pads, but have an amazing bite and will not crumble under hard use as my standard pads did after 70 laps of the Nordschleife. I understand these 'M' pads are standard as part of the Competition Package, or as retrofit items on normal cars. They are made by Textar for BMW and are not available as an aftermarket equivalent. The only sensible alternative I could find was a Pagid RS29, but this is not really suitable for road use, and would invalidate my warranty,. so I went with the M pads.
Interesting. I show the OEM part numbers are the same (maybe just a US thing?) regardless of Comp or not... 34112284869
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      09-01-2016, 03:34 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkshear View Post
Interesting. I show the OEM part numbers are the same (maybe just a US thing?) regardless of Comp or not... 34112284869
Realoem doesn't seem have it listed correctly. There are 2 parts. On the BMW system, if you search under a standard car's chassis number, they are under retrofits. Interestingly, the number you quote looks like a comp package number in Realoem. Check with your dealer. I spent some time researching this, and both my dealer and Phil Crouch found the same information.

The BMW system also states that they can be noisy, and this has been born out in real life use. A lot of folks won't like this, so I very much doubt they will be standard across a whole national version of the car. It also states that you HAVE to have new discs if you change to these pads, as the pad material is different and you need a clean transfer of material. I refused to buy the discs, and skimmed mine instead as they were virtually new anyway.

Here they are:

.
Attached Images
  
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      09-02-2016, 04:32 PM   #16
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^^^
Yup that's it

BMW S4007 brake system for BMW M5 F10




It's also in the BMW M Performance German brochure (search for BMW M Performance Preiliste in Goggle......then under the M5 F10 page, look for the item named "BMW M Performance Sportbremsbeläge")

Part numbers are:
34 11 2 284 465 (front)
34 21 2 284 466 (rear)

Now I do have a question though:
Is this compatible with cars built during 2011-2012 (a.k.a. pre-LCI)? Or is this only for LCI facelift vehicles?
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      09-02-2016, 06:49 PM   #17
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Great! I'll be taking a closer look at this for the future. Thanks for the info and spending the time doing the research!
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      09-09-2016, 02:54 PM   #18
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So i gotta comp car in build stat rt now will it have diff/better braking based off the info in this thread sound's like a yes ? if so im happpy
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