Quote:
Originally Posted by allmotor_2000
Like a few other people I also suffer from the Gearshift Rod 5-7 issue (not related to the clutch... rather something inherent in this transmission design). This is occurring on WOT 4th gear upshift to 5th gear where it throws a DTML and you effectively lose 5th gear until the engine is re-started. It is not fully clear what the root cause is, but there are theories.
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That to me [Kris I'm sure knows the car and software better] sounds like some kind of failsafe when the gear might go or snap, where like on my car you make the power all motor is making, and its too aggressive for stock gears in the 800-1100wtrq range. The gears are just gonna snap and you'll lose it, not catastrophic but a mess for someone like Shep, Ivey, etc. to clean up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by allmotor_2000
Custom billet block is for the 2.5K-3K HP range. Some GTR guys have that. Probably a $100K plus build.
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I was getting ready to put another 70k into the car and told that was not enough. SO I'm stopping at 1700whp right around the safe zone for still reliable on a day to day basis, kinda like UGR cars that make 1800,1900,2k+ they are strictly event cars and privately those cars have issues, and are not "reliable".. Where as 700-1600 with the right parts from the right people and the car like mine you can daily drive in rain, snow, etc. and with the right tires hook in 19 degree weather on asphalt lol
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheHouseWon
I thought the block was the last piece to go. Forged motor to is crabk, rods, and pistons. Billet motors are for serious race builds, essentially bullet proof.
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Bullet proof no, EXTREMELY resilient yes. The ETS billet block from Willall Racing, lifted the head mid run into the 7s and the block was fine and showed no signs of damage.
That was the block I was going to order would have been 25k shipped + headwork, crank+gaskets, etc. so close to 50k to get it up and running and was going to go T4 top mounts for 2000whp+ but was told by various people my car running 8s now would go from day to day reliable [I have 15k miles on the build and only lost a cv bolt at 1090wtrq on e85, after 14,550 miles of use, so $300 bucks outta pocket]... TO extremely unreliable.
To continue to stay in front of your guys' fastest cars in a GTR is like 30-60k depending on parts, shop etc., costs have come down probably another 10k since even from when I did it last year, so its continuing to get more affordable, more reliable each year with R&D