Not a completely useless test in the video, but as he disclaims, he's not using ASTM tests procedures or equipment. Still, the Amazon oil fared better than I was have thought.
The best indicator of the quality of motor oil is what most companies will never tell you, (or least in much detail,) and that is the what base stock they use as the foundation of their oil. The reason for this is three-fold: obvious, 1) better base stocks cost more money, 2) nobody is going to tell you exactly what they use in their oil, and 3) let's be honest, most people don't know enough about motor oil to even keep up in a conversation should the oil companies begin to start sharing more details. (Ex. Mobil1 Annual Protection - instead of breaking down and telling you what makes that oil better, they just try and tell you that you don't have to change your oil as often.)
Even oils in the same product line will vary depending upon viscosity. I've been in and out of the oil forums (Bob is the Oil Guy, or BITOG) for years and have read countless UOA and VOA's, and for me, when I come across an oil product sheet and they don't list any and or very many details as to the specs of their oil, I say to myself "and I'm supposed to just take their word" that their oil is better than the other guys and that it will be good for my motor?
I used to use Liqui-Moly in my previous E39 M5 that I had 6 years ago, and I liked the Made in Germany notion, but as I have learned more about motor oil, I'm not as big of as a fan. For the most part, however, I would use Mobil1 Full Synthetic in my other vehicles (Corvette) in large part because it was quality oil that could be had relatively easily, and inexpensively, at Wal-Mart. The Mobil1 ESP required for modern Diesels DPF's is not as easy to get, but with the internet, it was still a top-oil that could be had reasonably well. We all know that BMW dumped Castrol for SOPUS, or Shell Lubricants Division, a few years back, and the fact is their oils using a Gas-To-Liquid, or GTL, (Natural Gas) base stock are in fact, some really, really good motor oils. Since Shell owns Pennzoil, FCA (MOPAR) uses Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w-40 in their SRT motors (Corvette has now since changed to 0w-40 viscosity, as well,) and if you wanted to use a 5w-40 viscosity in our S63 motors that many wise folks have caught onto, Pennzoil has a Platinum Euro 5w-40 that is factory fill in Ferrari and supposedly has a very good NOACK of around 6.8, but they won't publish that figure in their product information (this figure supposedly comes from interviews in passing at trade shows with SOPUS folks.) This is the stuff that comes with a Ferrari logo on it and can only be had in 1qt bottles on it; not as easy to find, although I think you can get it shipped to your door via Wal-Mart.com, (just not in the stores,) for reasonable prices. MOTUL also makes a very good 5w-40, their 8100 X-cess, but its Noack is not published.
Some of the best motor oil specs that I have seen to date, is this Ravenol product out of Germany. Ravenol's USVO is something comparable to what Castol claims their "Titanium Edge" provides, i.e. better friction values.
https://www.ravenol.de/fileadmin/con...sentation_.pdf
The Ravenol 5w-40 VollSynth Turbo, or VST, has some of the best specs out there of anyone willing to publish them, in the areas you want in a motor like our S63: Direct Injection with TWO twin turbos. Superior pour and flashpoints, which is a testament to their Polyalphaolefin, (PAO,) base stocks, and a very low NOACK.
For those of us running an F10 M5 and it's S63B44T0 motor utilizing Turbo-Valvetronic Direct Injection (TVDI), the Noack is perhaps one of the most important metrics that we can use when trying to select which motor oil to use. The Noack volatility test measures the evaporation loss of (in this case,) motor oil, in high-temperatures, utilizing ASTM D5800. The lower the Noack the better. This test is a very important metric for use in a car with both DI and a turbocharger, (let alone two of them,) as you don't want oil to burn off which turns to carbon build up, clogging up your intake valves (doesn't burn off like port injection motors,) or plugging up (or coking) your turbochargers.
https://www.ravenol.de/en/products/u...sae-5w-40.html
There are many good oils out there and chances are if you're changing your oil regularly (5k miles or ONE YEAR,) the oil isn't going to kill your car. However, if you choose the wrong oil, you very well could be doing more harm than good to a very expensive motor.