Quote:
Originally Posted by Chauncey.Bishop
The bleed process is what's stopped me thus far. If somebody can walk me through that, I'll do the removal and document it for the rest of us.
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It's the same as any clutch slave bleeding. Reservoir is shared with the brakes. There is a bleed screw on the slave. If you're quick with the part change/part removal, not much fluid will leak anyway.
The method I've used is a "soda pop" bottle (that's been cleaned - I've been bleeding brakes with it for years) with a hose resting on the bottom and attaching to the bleeder. Keep about an inch of brake fluid in the bottom to create an air lock. Air bubbles get pushed out while bleeding but no air gets pulled back in when releasing. Open the bleeder and pump the clutch using your hand... it will probably get stuck to the floor. Repeat a bunch of times, close the bleeder, pump up the clutch pedal and check feel. Repeat 2-3 more times, keeping an eye on the reservoir level and at your bottle for fill level and also to look for air bubbles coming out. Once you don't see air, it's probably good to go. There isn't much capacity in the system, so it really shouldn't take much to bleed it out. It's just that sometimes air can get trapped because it's hard to generate pressure to move things along when the bleeder is open. A power brake bleeder probably works well here, I don't have one to try though.