The install was done on a 2013 F10 M5 with a JB4, BCM, Water Meth, and BMS intake and charge pipe kit.
1. Order DP's From vr-speed.com (VRSF)
2. Wait for FedEx (about 5 business days from shipping date, East to West coast)
INSTALL
3. Make sure your engine is cool.
4. Remove the black engine cover under the hood (its mounted on rubber grommets so just work it up by hand)
5. DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY ground cable in the trunk. You will be shortly removing two very important grounding wires and if you try to start your car without them connected crazy things happen... Eg: your ECU's will drain your entire meth tank into your charge pipes while cranking the engine over... Ask me how I know...
6a. Gently remove the two ECU's by hand from the metal bracket as you will need to remove that piece next. (they are also mounted on 4 rubber grommets)
6b. Remove the two grounding straps with a 10mm wrench. (each one is located just next to the ECU's)
6c. Remove the 1 Torx holding the coolant reservoir.
6d. With the ECU's pulled back you will See 4 T30 torx holding the bracket to the Engine. Remove the 4 bolts.
6e. Remove bracket
7a. Unplug the 4 o2 sensors from their plug in connections.
7b. Loosen DO NOT remove the 6 T30 torx from the heat shield. (saves you time later)
7c. Remove the top two o2 sensors you will need a Deep o2 socket (you can rent one with a deposit from AutoZone Part Number: 27110)
7d. Remove the two Plastic PCV hoses (easily pull back while working each clip loose
7e. Remove the smaller heat shield just below the Plastic PCV hoses, two T30 torx each side.
7f. Remove heat shields (all 3)
8. Remove the back o2s with a 22mm wrench.
9a. Remove the 6mm Allen's on each DP and the bracket (total 6 bolts)
9b. Remove the two 13mm V-band bolts and jar the V-band loose. (a pry bar and light tap from a hammer helps. Slide V-band back over turbo housing)
9c. Back by the Firewall you will see a total of 4 13mm bolts. Two on each DP bracket. Remove the 13mm nuts.
UNDER CAR.
10. Remove the 10 thousand 8mm bolts that hold the underbelly tray on.
11. Remove the 6 16mm bolts holding the front sub-frame reinforcement plate up.
12a. Remove the 2 11mm nuts on each DP.
12b. Remove the 8 13mm bolts holding the exhaust bracket and chassis enforcement plate (just to get the midsection to hang a little lower for clearance)
Back On Top
13. Remove Driver DP first. It is a tight fit but it does come out with a little twist.
14. Install your VRSF DP's from the top. You will probably have to adjust the the DP brackets that are mounted to the cylinder head with a short 6mm Allen.
15. Make sure that you get the gaskets on the lower part of the DP to slide over the actual DP and that they are NOT sitting in the midsection of the exhaust. (see pic12a, here you can see 1 of the 2 gaskets is still in the stock side of the exhaust system. The two pipes in this condition will not mate up)
16. Get your V-band clamps back on but leave them slightly loose so you can make any small adjustments to get the lower part of the exhaust system aligned.
17. Going back together is just in reverse order!
Notes:
1. If you do start the car before you re-install everything to check for leaks. PLEASE install the two ground wires to the cylinder head next to the ECUs. Reason stated above.
2. Fit and finish? Great, and I'm not supersized, I have installed several DP's from VRSF (n54/55) and I like them because they always fit and the price is right.
3. Power? I have no clue. Running map1 on the JB4 with the DP's installed "feels" faster but it might just be the sound. Ill be back at the dyno soon!.
4. Sound.. finally I have sound. This is the best part of it all coming from a E60 M5. Its not the same but I love it. $600 in parts and if you don't do it yourself I would guess a shop would charge between 3-5 hours?
5.Sound clip coming soon..