02-05-2017, 08:19 AM | #45 | |
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02-05-2017, 10:16 PM | #46 | |
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02-06-2017, 12:16 PM | #48 |
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02-07-2017, 01:18 PM | #50 | |
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DO NOT I repeat DO NOT!!!!!
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Very sorry to hear this has happened your Car. |
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02-08-2017, 12:19 AM | #52 | |
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02-08-2017, 12:21 AM | #53 |
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02-08-2017, 12:23 AM | #54 |
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My new parts should be in tomorrow ill input more info once is done.
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02-08-2017, 10:52 PM | #55 | |
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Don't Do It Serhat06
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serhat06 - You have not torn down 90% of the Motor by leaving the Motor in the Car. You are still unable to clean the Oil Passages in the Block and the Heads and the interior surfaces of the Block, Heads, Pistons, Rods, and Crankshaft (to say nothing of accurately checking the condition of the Crankshaft Rod and Main Bearing surfaces). The ONLY way this can be done is by doing what I said above. serhat06 - you need to have MORE RESPECT for the cleanliness and attention to detail required for a successful "Motor Rebuild", which is what you are doing. You will only prolong the agony by trying to short cut what I have said above. Your Mechanic will love you because you will just spend MUCH more money in the long run with him on Parts and Labor to ultimately fix the Motor. If your Mechanic is telling you "it is not necessary to remove the Motor" you are in the wrong place and you should take your car from him immediately and run as fast as you can to a reputable Shop. YOU CAN NOT remove the contamination from the Motor in the car when your bearings have already failed and sent the debris thru the motor. You will be lucky if you get around the block after spending all the time and money repairing the motor the way you want to. I speak from a life time of experience as an addicted "CAR GUY" who has built and raced Cars, Boats, and Jet Skis, all of which have produced a Minimum of a 180 BHP per Liter. I am an old man now and trying to pass along what I have learned and spent a lot of wasted money on during my life. I hope for the best in your efforts to repair your Car. |
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02-16-2017, 02:11 AM | #56 | |
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I'm experiencing severe rattling/ticking, but not a bend rod knock/tick. Gunna start with bearings first, 6K miles since a new motor was installed, by BMW btw. Gotta confirm the issue 100% before I open up a can of whoop ass. |
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02-16-2017, 11:11 AM | #57 | |
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02-16-2017, 11:18 AM | #58 | |
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02-17-2017, 07:39 AM | #59 |
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Do you know if your car was ever tracked ?
I can see rod bearing failure due to excessive G forces whilst cornering causing some form of oil starvation. and/or Poor cold start running procedure (too much load / revs) during cold start. I am not saying you have done this but perhaps a previous owner ? Perhaps a batch of poorly manufactured oil pumps. Unlikely, but oil pump failure or oil pump performing poorly perhaps...or even debris in the oil pan that has caused some oil starvation due to blocking the oil pick up head. Incorrect engine oil grade / spec..... Actually I suppose the list goes on. I come from an E39 M5 back ground where there have been quite a few rod bearing failures documented. I changed them out at circa 119K Miles. I have seen them fail on pristine 40K examples but also no problems on 300K examples. Its quite an interesting topic to be honest, albeit costly if it goes wrong !
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02-17-2017, 08:21 AM | #60 |
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The E60 M5 has a known rod bearing issue. The E9X M3 which shares the M5 engine design has it too.
You were pushing your luck on rod bearings over 80,000km / 50,000 miles. The high-reving nature of the v10 was blamed at the time. I wonder if this will be an issue with the F10 M5. This should probably be mandatory maintenance for all out of warranty M5's. I did it on my previous E60 M5 and it was $2500 cdn at the BMW dealer. The rod bearing were shot (96,000km).
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02-19-2017, 01:21 PM | #61 | |
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1. late oil change. 2. oil level sensor, after the work done i filled up the oil and measured couple of times after at least 25 mins (for the oil to get op temp. ) and it was ok next day warning pupped up required 1+qt add. it might be normal due all oil lines and oil cooler was removed and i know if the oil isn't hot enough it wont open the thermostat to let the oil flow in oil cooler. but i ll replace the sensor regardless in next oil change. |
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02-19-2017, 01:24 PM | #62 | |
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02-21-2017, 08:13 AM | #63 | ||
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Gunna try to break the rack from the steering shaft and unbolt the engine mounts, then try to lower the car with the motor pinched on stands, see if I can make a bigger gap between the block and cross member, ughh. Warranty got flagged, car is over due on lease return since dec. 26, rattle came out of nowhere about 3 weeks prior to that. About to yolo and return it as is. |
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02-24-2017, 03:36 PM | #65 | |
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remove any part that connects suspention to subframe, remove stabil. arm, remove oil cooler and lines. remove both side fenderliners remove both side water coolers ( helps to remove lower front suspention arm bolt) remove steering rack from subframe you can leave the steering oil lines on but it is easier if you remove whole steering rack. secure engine with a engine jack or use that tool you put on fenders. engine lift points are one in front easy to locate second behind rear left engine computer, remove all engine harrness end engine computer from its bracket so it doest brake when you lift up the engine. no need to remove cooling lines. remove bolts between radiator support and subframe remove engine mound bolts remove all subframe bolts remove harness on lower oil pan ( oil pressure or temp sensor and oil level sensor, remove lower oil pan, remove oil pump remove upper oil pan (also tranmission bolts holding together) you need to remove the sponge between tranmission and oil pan in order to access rear bolts. use inpa for torque specs. use loctite for upper oil pan bolts the ones stay inside the oil pan ( i used on all of them) when you remove connecting rod caps you need to buy new bolts. good luck. but dkg clutch makes rattle noise too. make you you remove all bottom covers and listen to it from lower end. connecting rod noise will make complete different noise then anything else. also check your oil for metal flakes. the total job takes about 10-15 hours no lift including replacement of each bearing shells. |
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