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      10-31-2019, 10:31 AM   #1
M5TUDM
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SURVEY: Single Most Important Thing For F10 M5

Having recently taken ownership of a 'new-to-me' F10 M5; I've opened this thread in order to survey all SEASONED M5 owners. There's countless threads on mods, paint, wheels, DIY, suspension, tuning, detailing, etc... However, I'm simply asking for one's best and 'experienced' advice on what, in your opinion, would be the overall single most important thing to maintaining a healthy F10 M5.
Having said that, I think it's fair to include regrets; e.g., wish I hadn't "xyz" - lessons learned so to speak.
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      10-31-2019, 11:25 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M5TUDM View Post
Having recently taken ownership of a 'new-to-me' F10 M5; I've opened this thread in order to survey all SEASONED M5 owners. There's countless threads on mods, paint, wheels, DIY, suspension, tuning, detailing, etc... However, I'm simply asking for one's best and 'experienced' advice on what, in your opinion, would be the overall single most important thing to maintaining a healthy F10 M5.
Having said that, I think it's fair to include regrets; e.g., wish I hadn't "xyz" - lessons learned so to speak.
Single most important? Same as any car. Change the oil often enough. Everyone forms their own opinion on what that is. Mine is every 5k miles.

Also, welcome and congrats on the purchase.
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      10-31-2019, 11:55 AM   #3
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Definitely do the service on time and for oil changes, do them at least every 5k miles.
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      10-31-2019, 12:03 PM   #4
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Oil changes and warming the car properly before driving over 2500rpm
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      10-31-2019, 12:52 PM   #5
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Drive safe & don't crash. LOL.

Kidding aside. Here's something I'd share for perspective if you plan to mod the car. Things like catless DP and flash tunes make the car a lot more loud, fun and fast. But note that the added HP/TQ can greatly accelerate the wear and tear on many other stock components in the car that weren't designed to carry significantly higher HP/TQ loads, not to mention how the added vibration overall can cause more squeaks and noises in the cabin. The likely cumulative impact to many other stock components in the car - brakes and clutch for example - could require replacement far sooner than the normal expected lifespan of those stock parts, so keep this in mind. I realize one could argue that wear and tear / replacement requirements are subject to current mileage, style of driving etc. anyway. But in my POV, it doesn't change the rate at which parts on the car would need to be replaced, which is sped up considerably.
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      10-31-2019, 02:06 PM   #6
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First one.Oil and filter changes more often definitely for engine longevity.
Second? Change those conservative standard drain pipe exhaust endings.
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      10-31-2019, 04:30 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by thef10m5 View Post
Drive safe & don't crash. LOL.

Kidding aside. Here's something I'd share for perspective if you plan to mod the car. Things like catless DP and flash tunes make the car a lot more loud, fun and fast. But note that the added HP/TQ can greatly accelerate the wear and tear on many other stock components in the car that weren't designed to carry significantly higher HP/TQ loads, not to mention how the added vibration overall can cause more squeaks and noises in the cabin. The likely cumulative impact to many other stock components in the car - brakes and clutch for example - could require replacement far sooner than the normal expected lifespan of those stock parts, so keep this in mind. I realize one could argue that wear and tear / replacement requirements are subject to current mileage, style of driving etc. anyway. But in my POV, it doesn't change the rate at which parts on the car would need to be replaced, which is sped up considerably.
Really appreciate your input and caution over mods; thanks for sharing
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      10-31-2019, 04:31 PM   #8
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Any particular recommendations on your choice of oil?
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      10-31-2019, 04:45 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M5TUDM View Post
Any particular recommendations on your choice of oil?
I use liquid moly
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      11-01-2019, 04:13 PM   #10
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The lack of a dipstick first the oil means you need to check in idrive. You need to actually check because the oil level sensor can fail and months can go by yet there is no loss in oil registered. If so, get the sensor and the oil replaced right away. Been there, done that,

Heat is a major concern on this engine hence it has no less than 7 radiators and two cooling circuits. The turbo circuit has small tank that has any easy to read level gauge in the tank. The main circuit tank also has a gauge except for US models! I use a tape measure set to exactly 6 inches as that is about the same as the metric spec in ETK. Neither of these two circuits have any warning system for "low coolant". The car is happy to pump it's entire coolant supply out and not let you know. Seen this happen in the driveway on my wife's 550i.

Consequently, make sure to monitor your oil and coolant levels and get any leaks fixed right away as soon as you notice them. So often we read on these boards of people being very lazy (cheap really) about fixing leaks. One should not buy a depreciated $100K USD car and then act all phobic about spending some money to get things repaired.

Keeping it healthy is just like with other cars, keep on top of fluid changes and watch for problems developing.
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      11-01-2019, 08:56 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TLK View Post
The lack of a dipstick first the oil means you need to check in idrive. You need to actually check because the oil level sensor can fail and months can go by yet there is no loss in oil registered. If so, get the sensor and the oil replaced right away. Been there, done that,

Heat is a major concern on this engine hence it has no less than 7 radiators and two cooling circuits. The turbo circuit has small tank that has any easy to read level gauge in the tank. The main circuit tank also has a gauge except for US models! I use a tape measure set to exactly 6 inches as that is about the same as the metric spec in ETK. Neither of these two circuits have any warning system for "low coolant". The car is happy to pump it's entire coolant supply out and not let you know. Seen this happen in the driveway on my wife's 550i.

Consequently, make sure to monitor your oil and coolant levels and get any leaks fixed right away as soon as you notice them. So often we read on these boards of people being very lazy (cheap really) about fixing leaks. One should not buy a depreciated $100K USD car and then act all phobic about spending some money to get things repaired.

Keeping it healthy is just like with other cars, keep on top of fluid changes and watch for problems developing.
I will pay close attention! That said, I genuinely appreciate you taking the time to explain these potential cooling issues; really meaningful information - thank you
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      11-01-2019, 08:58 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Ickdeep View Post
I use liquid moly
Great pic! I'm placing an order to match exactly what you've recommended
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      11-05-2019, 04:29 PM   #13
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Any particular recommendations on your choice of oil?
Look up Ravenol 5w-40 Vollsynth Turbo, or VST. Look and compare the specs. If you find another with superior specs, let me know.

https://www.ravenol.de/en/product-ra...vst-sae-5w-40/

https://www.ravenolamerica.com/motor...nth-turbo-vst/
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      11-06-2019, 11:36 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AirBull View Post
Look up Ravenol 5w-40 Vollsynth Turbo, or VST. Look and compare the specs. If you find another with superior specs, let me know.

https://www.ravenol.de/en/product-ra...vst-sae-5w-40/

https://www.ravenolamerica.com/motor...nth-turbo-vst/
I think this oil has better specs for the Midwest, the 5-40 better for Texas

https://www.ravenol.de/en/product-ra...ssl-sae-0w-40/
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      11-10-2019, 08:13 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TLK View Post
The lack of a dipstick first the oil means you need to check in idrive. You need to actually check because the oil level sensor can fail and months can go by yet there is no loss in oil registered. If so, get the sensor and the oil replaced right away. Been there, done that,

Heat is a major concern on this engine hence it has no less than 7 radiators and two cooling circuits. The turbo circuit has small tank that has any easy to read level gauge in the tank. The main circuit tank also has a gauge except for US models! I use a tape measure set to exactly 6 inches as that is about the same as the metric spec in ETK. Neither of these two circuits have any warning system for "low coolant". The car is happy to pump it's entire coolant supply out and not let you know. Seen this happen in the driveway on my wife's 550i.

Consequently, make sure to monitor your oil and coolant levels and get any leaks fixed right away as soon as you notice them. So often we read on these boards of people being very lazy (cheap really) about fixing leaks. One should not buy a depreciated $100K USD car and then act all phobic about spending some money to get things repaired.

Keeping it healthy is just like with other cars, keep on top of fluid changes and watch for problems developing.

always wondered that about the oil level sensor.. had no idea coolant had no sensor (new 7 series' have coolant level sensors.
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      11-10-2019, 08:20 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ticat928 View Post
I think this oil has better specs for the Midwest, the 5-40 better for Texas

https://www.ravenol.de/en/product-ra...ssl-sae-0w-40/
sure run 0-40 in super cold enviros.. but note that 5w has been the designated cold-weather oil viscosity for decades for every car. only recently with the gas mileage fuel conservation craze has 0w become a thing. i'd stick to 5w unless i lived in arctic temps, but i wouldnt drive in those temps either
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      11-13-2019, 02:11 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AirBull View Post
Look up Ravenol 5w-40 Vollsynth Turbo, or VST. Look and compare the specs. If you find another with superior specs, let me know.

https://www.ravenol.de/en/product-ra...vst-sae-5w-40/

https://www.ravenolamerica.com/motor...nth-turbo-vst/
Here you are. Redline 5w40 LL01
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