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      11-10-2019, 08:25 AM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harry007 View Post
First things first.

Stop panicking. I can feel it and read it in your posts.

Its a car and only metal, it can be fixed, amended and rescued.

Let BMW diagnose the car first before anything. Before getting anyone else involved you will over confuse yourself.

Thanks
H
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      11-10-2019, 08:39 AM   #68
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I believe it’s best to park it, save some money, rebuild it or put in a used engine. Stop thinking about the value of the lost. What’s done is done. Enjoy the car when it is fix, and know you should never have this issue again if you get a fresh rebuild.

If the little support is not enough what bmw is giving you. See if you can get the parts at a discounted rate, and take to a Indy to rebuild.

I too just purchased a m5,which I have barely driven and now I will make sure I get an oil sample done before continuing to drive. I did so on my e60 m5, and I think it’s good practice.
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      11-27-2019, 04:05 AM   #69
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New Update! Good News!!

Hi All,

Thank you all once again for the support.

So...some good news...I managed to get the car back on the road. Made the decision to get the car repaired. Got 2 year warranty on all parts replaced and also got the BMW Extended Warranty.

I have to run in the car now, so have to go back for the run in service between 1000-1200 miles. Any recommendations on how to drive in this period? Never had to run in a car before.

I'm still paranoid when i drive the car, but i guess this will take time. Now the maintenance. Plan is to complete an oil change every 3500 miles and stick to the recommended servicing. Anything else suggested to try and mitigate the risk of the engine going again?
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      11-27-2019, 04:21 AM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by umz View Post
Hi All,

Thank you all once again for the support.

So...some good news...I managed to get the car back on the road. Made the decision to get the car repaired. Got 2 year warranty on all parts replaced and also got the BMW Extended Warranty.

I have to run in the car now, so have to go back for the run in service between 1000-1200 miles. Any recommendations on how to drive in this period? Never had to run in a car before.

I'm still paranoid when i drive the car, but i guess this will take time. Now the maintenance. Plan is to complete an oil change every 3500 miles and stick to the recommended servicing. Anything else suggested to try and mitigate the risk of the engine going again?
Warm the engine for 5 minutes at tick over from cold then proceed not to take it over 2500 rpm until oil temp normal. For running-in you can use the revs but not under load, that is not with full throttle.As the mileage increases add more revs with just enough not to stress the engine and continue to the run-in end point then you can gradually start pushing the engine more
How was the engine repaired or did you have a replacement short block..
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      11-27-2019, 04:26 AM   #71
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Originally Posted by M5theonlyone View Post
Warm the engine for 5 minutes at tick over from cold then proceed not to take it over 2500 rpm until oil temp normal. For running-in you can use the revs but not under load, that is not with full throttle.As the mileage increases add more revs with just enough not to stress the engine and continue to the run-in end point then you can gradually start pushing the engine more
How was the engine repaired or did you have a replacement short block..
Thanks for that information. I have been letting the car sit on cold start for a a few mins before driving off, I have been very steady with the car, i have already done about 300 miles and not been over 3/4rpm yet.

It was a replacement block.
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      11-27-2019, 04:28 AM   #72
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Originally Posted by umz View Post
Thanks for that information. I have been letting the car sit on cold start for a a few mins before driving off, I have been very steady with the car, i have already done about 300 miles and not been over 3/4rpm yet.

It was a replacement block.
I think you'll be happy now and you got parts deals thrown in after negotiations.
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      11-27-2019, 05:00 AM   #73
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I come from the theory of drive them hard during break in and I make the engine brake itself to build vacuum to expand the ring and force them against the new cross hatch in the cylinder walls. That cross hatching acts as a file so the new rings and cylinder match as perfect as they can to reduce blow by in the long run and have the highest compression. I run the car up to say 50 mph and let the engine brake. I do this on all new engines I get, dirt bikes, Harley, cars etc. never had an issue, everyone has their theories. I also change the oil after the first day I take it out for it's break in and then every few hundred miles afterwards.
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      11-27-2019, 05:01 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M5theonlyone View Post
I think you'll be happy now and you got parts deals thrown in after negotiations.
Fingers crossed all is well now mate. What a flippin journey!
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      11-27-2019, 07:04 AM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by umz View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by M5theonlyone View Post
I think you'll be happy now and you got parts deals thrown in after negotiations.
Fingers crossed all is well now mate. What a flippin journey!
Congrats !!! Enjoy now !!!

Who much was your total costs if you don't mind ?

I am doing oil changes every 3000 miles since mine got rebuild ...

I feel you 100 % went thru same thing , just got it back 2 weeks ago
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      11-27-2019, 07:31 AM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E93M3ofSFL View Post
Congrats !!! Enjoy now !!!

Who much was your total costs if you don't mind ?

I am doing oil changes every 3000 miles since mine got rebuild ...

I feel you 100 % went thru same thing , just got it back 2 weeks ago

Its cost me over £10K man.

Need to ensure im on top of the maintenance now, dont want to be going through the same thing again.

Now im starting to window shop lol going to give it a few months before i buy anything for the car. Looking to get spacers (H&R 12mm All round) and carbon fibre exhaust tips, then onto some CF front, side and rear lips/diffusers
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      11-27-2019, 07:35 AM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by umz View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by E93M3ofSFL View Post
Congrats !!! Enjoy now !!!

Who much was your total costs if you don't mind ?

I am doing oil changes every 3000 miles since mine got rebuild ...

I feel you 100 % went thru same thing , just got it back 2 weeks ago

Its cost me over £10K man.

Need to ensure im on top of the maintenance now, dont want to be going through the same thing again.

Now im starting to window shop lol going to give it a few months before i buy anything for the car. Looking to get spacers (H&R 12mm All round) and carbon fibre exhaust tips, then onto some CF front, side and rear lips/diffusers
Wow congrats, not bad at all ... Enjoy your car now , so the proper break in ..: and do change oil every 3000 miles now , it's cheap insurance ...

Who did the job ? Bmw dealer ?
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      11-27-2019, 08:00 AM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by umz View Post
Hi guys,

In need of your experience and knowledge. So basically , i was driving home yesterday from work, doing 25/30mph and randomly the car went into neutral and shut itself off, steering started to get stiff, and started throwing up error codes (adaptive headlight error, diff lock are the ones i remember). I slowly came to a stop and then the car wouldn't restart. I tried ignition off and on and still nothing. Shortly i got a low battery warning, so i thought the battery could be the issue, i ran out to get a new battery replaced this and still nothing after registering the battery to the car.

Now, my cousin has a couple of machines and one of the codes that comes up is a servertronic valve fault, could this be the reason for the car shutting off and reason its not starting again?

I had to get the car towed away, had to get under the car and put it into N and put it on a flatbed. Worst feeling ever!

So ive been researching on the forum etc and have come across a few people that have experienced this, some say its the Crankshaft sensor and others say the HP fuel pump.

Can anyone shed any light or experienced this before, i want my car back!

Thank you in advance.
Same exact thing happened to me, but after 15 mins I was able to restart the car. Took it to the dealer It was the radiator
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      11-27-2019, 08:44 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E93M3ofSFL View Post
Wow congrats, not bad at all ... Enjoy your car now , so the proper break in ..: and do change oil every 3000 miles now , it's cheap insurance ...

Who did the job ? Bmw dealer ?
Yeh the run in...been driving moderately, allowing car to warm up properly etc ive done a few hundred on it now so going to start driving a little harder now (nothing too hard though).

Yes a BMW dealer completed the job.
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      11-27-2019, 08:47 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hkm5 View Post
Same exact thing happened to me, but after 15 mins I was able to restart the car. Took it to the dealer It was the radiator
Ah cool. tbh at the time i panicked but then started thinking it could be something small, maybe a sensor or something. Worst thing that could have happened after 8 days of ownership. All good now and fingers crossed it remains that way.
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      11-27-2019, 05:44 PM   #81
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I don’t think it’s necessary to let the car idle for 5 mins before driving that’s just daft.

Just drive gently until it’s warmed up

I also think oil changes every 3,000 miles is over the top, every 5,000 - 7,000 is fine in my opinion
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      11-28-2019, 12:18 AM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OneExtra View Post
I don’t think it’s necessary to let the car idle for 5 mins before driving that’s just daft.

Just drive gently until it’s warmed up

I also think oil changes every 3,000 miles is over the top, every 5,000 - 7,000 is fine in my opinion
+1

I change mine every 7500 miles
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      11-28-2019, 03:24 AM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OneExtra View Post
I don’t think it’s necessary to let the car idle for 5 mins before driving that’s just daft.

Just drive gently until it’s warmed up

I also think oil changes every 3,000 miles is over the top, every 5,000 - 7,000 is fine in my opinion
Quite a few technicians including BMW have said to me that letting any engine idle for a few minutes from cold before driving is beneficial to it's life more so in the case of the complex M5. You do know you can start the car then lock it to do something else without fear of someone stealing it.
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      11-28-2019, 05:36 AM   #84
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Re: idle time at cold start. For "everyday car" like a Honda, Ford, Etc. they actually don't recommend warming up the car by idle for more than say 1 minute. The reason is they need heat to be efficient and the heat is generated during loaded use, not idle. The cats light off very quickly in new cars. Once the cats light off, it's good to start driving.

In M cars, I'm agreeing that a little bit longer idle time is a good thing but it's still technically not necessary. On average mine runs in the garage in the morning for 2, maybe 3 minutes. The key is to drive moderately at all times that the oil temp is low.
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      11-28-2019, 05:38 AM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M5theonlyone View Post
Quite a few technicians including BMW have said to me that letting any engine idle for a few minutes from cold before driving is beneficial to it's life more so in the case of the complex M5. You do know you can start the car then lock it to do something else without fear of someone stealing it.
The reason they say that is because most people don't have mechanical sympathy and don't know to drive differently with a cold engine. The safe answer for everyone is give it a couple minutes to warm up first. At least then the engine has a fighting chance to survive longer.
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      11-28-2019, 08:51 AM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by technician117 View Post
Re: idle time at cold start. For "everyday car" like a Honda, Ford, Etc. they actually don't recommend warming up the car by idle for more than say 1 minute. The reason is they need heat to be efficient and the heat is generated during loaded use, not idle. The cats light off very quickly in new cars. Once the cats light off, it's good to start driving.

In M cars, I'm agreeing that a little bit longer idle time is a good thing but it's still technically not necessary. On average mine runs in the garage in the morning for 2, maybe 3 minutes. The key is to drive moderately at all times that the oil temp is low.
Go with that, I try to plan when we are leaving for somewhere and get to the car before everyone comes out the door
My main concern is not the cats but getting the oil to circulate and thin at the c/shaft and rod bearings without putting load of any kind on the engine.
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      11-28-2019, 05:46 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M5theonlyone View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by technician117 View Post
Re: idle time at cold start. For "everyday car" like a Honda, Ford, Etc. they actually don't recommend warming up the car by idle for more than say 1 minute. The reason is they need heat to be efficient and the heat is generated during loaded use, not idle. The cats light off very quickly in new cars. Once the cats light off, it's good to start driving.

In M cars, I'm agreeing that a little bit longer idle time is a good thing but it's still technically not necessary. On average mine runs in the garage in the morning for 2, maybe 3 minutes. The key is to drive moderately at all times that the oil temp is low.
Go with that, I try to plan when we are leaving for somewhere and get to the car before everyone comes out the door
My main concern is not the cats but getting the oil to circulate and thin at the c/shaft and rod bearings without putting load of any kind on the engine.
As per Troy Jeup best way to save these engines is putting a race thermostat to lower operating temperatures, switch to 5w50 preferably redline oil , heat wrap turbo lines , heat wrap downpipes.

It makes sense








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      11-29-2019, 02:44 AM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E93M3ofSFL View Post
As per Troy Jeup best way to save these engines is putting a race thermostat to lower operating temperatures, switch to 5w50 preferably redline oil , heat wrap turbo lines , heat wrap downpipes.

It makes sense








A good point about the turbo coolant lines, there is enough heat in the sealed from the top engine compartment without these lines adding to it but as I have stock downpipes I'll skip the wrap there.
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