11-10-2019, 08:25 AM | #67 | |
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11-10-2019, 08:39 AM | #68 |
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I believe it’s best to park it, save some money, rebuild it or put in a used engine. Stop thinking about the value of the lost. What’s done is done. Enjoy the car when it is fix, and know you should never have this issue again if you get a fresh rebuild.
If the little support is not enough what bmw is giving you. See if you can get the parts at a discounted rate, and take to a Indy to rebuild. I too just purchased a m5,which I have barely driven and now I will make sure I get an oil sample done before continuing to drive. I did so on my e60 m5, and I think it’s good practice. |
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11-27-2019, 04:05 AM | #69 |
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New Update! Good News!!
Hi All,
Thank you all once again for the support. So...some good news...I managed to get the car back on the road. Made the decision to get the car repaired. Got 2 year warranty on all parts replaced and also got the BMW Extended Warranty. I have to run in the car now, so have to go back for the run in service between 1000-1200 miles. Any recommendations on how to drive in this period? Never had to run in a car before. I'm still paranoid when i drive the car, but i guess this will take time. Now the maintenance. Plan is to complete an oil change every 3500 miles and stick to the recommended servicing. Anything else suggested to try and mitigate the risk of the engine going again? |
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11-27-2019, 04:21 AM | #70 | |
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How was the engine repaired or did you have a replacement short block.. |
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11-27-2019, 04:26 AM | #71 | |
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It was a replacement block. |
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11-27-2019, 04:28 AM | #72 |
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I think you'll be happy now and you got parts deals thrown in after negotiations.
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11-27-2019, 05:00 AM | #73 |
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I come from the theory of drive them hard during break in and I make the engine brake itself to build vacuum to expand the ring and force them against the new cross hatch in the cylinder walls. That cross hatching acts as a file so the new rings and cylinder match as perfect as they can to reduce blow by in the long run and have the highest compression. I run the car up to say 50 mph and let the engine brake. I do this on all new engines I get, dirt bikes, Harley, cars etc. never had an issue, everyone has their theories. I also change the oil after the first day I take it out for it's break in and then every few hundred miles afterwards.
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11-27-2019, 05:01 AM | #74 |
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11-27-2019, 07:04 AM | #75 | |
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Who much was your total costs if you don't mind ? I am doing oil changes every 3000 miles since mine got rebuild ... I feel you 100 % went thru same thing , just got it back 2 weeks ago |
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11-27-2019, 07:31 AM | #76 | |
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Its cost me over £10K man. Need to ensure im on top of the maintenance now, dont want to be going through the same thing again. Now im starting to window shop lol going to give it a few months before i buy anything for the car. Looking to get spacers (H&R 12mm All round) and carbon fibre exhaust tips, then onto some CF front, side and rear lips/diffusers |
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11-27-2019, 07:35 AM | #77 | ||
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Who did the job ? Bmw dealer ? |
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11-27-2019, 08:00 AM | #78 | |
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11-27-2019, 08:44 AM | #79 | |
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Yes a BMW dealer completed the job. |
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11-27-2019, 08:47 AM | #80 |
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Ah cool. tbh at the time i panicked but then started thinking it could be something small, maybe a sensor or something. Worst thing that could have happened after 8 days of ownership. All good now and fingers crossed it remains that way.
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11-27-2019, 05:44 PM | #81 |
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I don’t think it’s necessary to let the car idle for 5 mins before driving that’s just daft.
Just drive gently until it’s warmed up I also think oil changes every 3,000 miles is over the top, every 5,000 - 7,000 is fine in my opinion |
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11-28-2019, 12:18 AM | #82 | |
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I change mine every 7500 miles |
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11-28-2019, 03:24 AM | #83 |
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Quite a few technicians including BMW have said to me that letting any engine idle for a few minutes from cold before driving is beneficial to it's life more so in the case of the complex M5. You do know you can start the car then lock it to do something else without fear of someone stealing it.
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11-28-2019, 05:36 AM | #84 |
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Re: idle time at cold start. For "everyday car" like a Honda, Ford, Etc. they actually don't recommend warming up the car by idle for more than say 1 minute. The reason is they need heat to be efficient and the heat is generated during loaded use, not idle. The cats light off very quickly in new cars. Once the cats light off, it's good to start driving.
In M cars, I'm agreeing that a little bit longer idle time is a good thing but it's still technically not necessary. On average mine runs in the garage in the morning for 2, maybe 3 minutes. The key is to drive moderately at all times that the oil temp is low. |
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11-28-2019, 05:38 AM | #85 | |
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11-28-2019, 08:51 AM | #86 | |
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My main concern is not the cats but getting the oil to circulate and thin at the c/shaft and rod bearings without putting load of any kind on the engine. |
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11-28-2019, 05:46 PM | #87 | ||
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It makes sense |
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11-29-2019, 02:44 AM | #88 |
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A good point about the turbo coolant lines, there is enough heat in the sealed from the top engine compartment without these lines adding to it but as I have stock downpipes I'll skip the wrap there.
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