10-31-2022, 11:47 AM | #1 |
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To mod or not to mod. That's the question...
Hi guys, the time has come to consider my options.
Just had my MOT done, all good, no advisories and car in mint condition. All stock. 27k miles. During the past months, I went on a shopping spree and purchased a lot of upgraded items that are now comfortably sitting in my garage. Exterior parts like carbon items. Lowering springs and spacers. Intakes. Downpipes. Big oil cooler + free flowing valve. Thermostat. Turbo blanket. Braided hoses (brakes). Racing DCT sump. Charge pipes. Pedals. You name it - I got it. Splashed the cash and busted my credit card. BUT... I have not fitted anything at all. Nothing. Nada. The only "upgrade" so far, was changing my oil to 5W-40, along with new spark plugs (NGK) and coil packs. A set of new tyres. That's it. My initial idea of upgrading this car, was bifold: 1. To improve the air flow by removing notorious air flow bottlenecks in a futile crusade to improve the quality of ratio/mix and the overall efficiency of the motor. In terms of mpg and optimised operation. 2. To reduce the heat in the engine bay and improve the cooling capacity to ensure enhanced reliability and longevity. To clarify. I am not looking for power increase or dynos or performance. I am simply looking to rectify some pain points in advance, to avoid or delay wear and problems However. The more I think about it. The more I read about it. I started having serious doubts my interventions will do any good in the long run. Let me explain: When you start adding or changing parts, one should think about the big picture right? What one is trying to achieve - but also, the impact that the new updated part might have on the overall functionality/reliability/efficiency of the engine/car. It's like a mathematical equation. By changing a parameter, you change the outcome. Problem is - when discussing engines that were designed as an integrated system of moving parts that produce an output - how are you going to know if what you are adding will do good or will cause a "deregulation" (Or disruption if you prefer) of this integrated system? How do you know if changing 5% of factor A will lead to a 5% improved factor B? Is this a linear relationship? Or is it random? Does it make sense to start throwing random parts and to improve parameters that were initially considered along hundred of other parameters in the same car? Assuming I am updating my intakes and fitting cold air intakes that let more air through the airbox. Do I need to recalibrate the ECU? Or does the lambda sensor will self adjust? What if i added a free flowing exhaust at the same time? How do I know if my torque curve has improved or not. If I am running lean? If my spark plugs need to be cooler. If I need different oil. If..If...If.. Is it worth the risk - or am i exaggerating by overthinking things? I am really not sure anymore.... |
11-01-2022, 10:23 AM | #2 |
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sounds like you're overthinking things, mate.
this platform has been around for a decade and many, if not all, perspectives dissected when it comes to the intakes, exhaust, tunes, etc. etc. removing the charcoal filter, here in the states, and dropping in a dry element filter has been proven to be the most cost efficient in terms of power (perceived) to cost ratio. that's what I did; cracked open the boxes, removed the charcoal and dropped in the filter. the car adapted to what little change there was in overall airflow. if you want turbo noise, under the bonnet bling and bragging rights for spending $1-2K on pieces of plastic or carbon with little additional power gains, that is personal preference. in my experience there are no other complimentary mods needed for airbox/intake upgrades. 2 years on and my set-up has created zero issues. once you start tuning the ecu, you will need to get colder plugs and gap appropriately based on what stage you're running and complimentary mods (downpipes). imo, spend time overthinking maintenance to keep this beast running tip-top and use this forum to guide you on how far you want to push it on mods.
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11-01-2022, 06:57 PM | #5 |
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Oh man, I deal with the same headache, is it worth making the change or is it gonna be a butterfly effect
I say leave it how it is unless you want more power etc |
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11-02-2022, 03:48 PM | #6 | |
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Also, the engine bay is getting boiling hot, yet not event an air vent present on the hood. It's not surprising these engine do have conrod bearing failures when the oil becomes water after couple thousand miles due to overheating. That said, my point was modifications that do not adversely affect the engine life span could be something to consider. e.g replacing cheap plastic charge pipes with aluminum pipes. Doesn't hurt. |
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11-02-2022, 03:54 PM | #7 | ||
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I don't see how the motor gets so hot to the point where it's overheating, I've beat on my car specially in cali weather and it's been fine to my best understanding the temps never pass 250f and I'm talking staying in the 5-7k rpm's constantly Yes it does get pretty hot but I feel everything is engineered to withstand that heat and like any other "race car" the oil needs to be maintained and changed constantly to keep everything nice and lubricated, most of the time these rod stories are usually either too much power or not enough oil changes, or else this car can take a beating Regarding intakes, that's interesting, with the charcoal delete I feel like they do fine but being starved for air is not something I've looked into and I'm curious if upgrading can help the motor breathe better or it's the same thing Again to upgrade cooling parts etc I feel like is only necessary if you are pushing the motor beyond its stock limits |
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11-03-2022, 05:56 PM | #8 |
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Its always good to be precautious but I think you're overthinking it too much. If you want the most life out of the car then charcoal filter delete is the best alternative. You can even add some intakes and exhaust & still won't run into future trouble & most are happy with these options. Once you start with downpipes, tuning, etc...thats when future life span of the car comes into play but then again it is hit or miss with every vehicle. I know alot of guys within every platform that have kept stock and some who have done everything performance wise that can be done & have had no problems at all or constant trouble; vice verasa. Maintenance is a big key 🔑 !! Properly warming up the car & staying on top of recommended service intervals will keep your car in the best shape always.
I personally add tasteful exterior, interior & subtle performance mods to all my vehicles & have never had a problem with any but then again I do not daily drive it or beat the piss out of it everytime I get in it. I'll be adding downpipes and a stg1 or stg2 tune soon to pair with my already installed MSR intakes and most likely end there. It comes down to what are you looking to get out of the vehicle. Most enjoy stock and feel its enough, others want a little more sauce and lastly some want to squeeze as much power out as possible. Gotta pay to play sadly. It seems like you have already done the hardest part and that is spending the bag on buying the parts, so you might as well pair it all together and I know you will not be disappointed. |
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11-03-2022, 08:59 PM | #9 |
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I figured it out MarcF10 you must be an engineer. Only an engineer would think this deep. Lol.
Just kidding and good luck on either way you go. If this helps you make a decision, here are the steps I did before modding mine. 1. Enjoy the car in its natural setting. Meaning, no mods for the first year was a kind of honeymoon. Drive it. It's a car not fine wine. 2. Keep up the maintenance. 3. Do my homework before making purchases on mods and determine how everything was going to come together. If it breaks, so be it. It's a car. I'm sitting at 160K miles on a stage 2 catless downpiped car. I've had the tune for almost 150k miles with no major mechanical issues. In fact, I've had zero mechanical issues other than not securing the DME's after some work which resulted in a power drop under WOT. As another poster said, don't over think it. Drive it and enjoy it. |
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11-04-2022, 12:31 AM | #10 | |
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Not sure if you've mentioned it, but where did you get your stage 2 tune? |
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11-04-2022, 01:50 AM | #13 | |
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Flooring it, downshifting hard etc |
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11-04-2022, 07:58 AM | #14 |
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Damn. We're just hi-jacking the mans thread. Lol. Custom built tune by Mike Benvo at BPM. I actually think he custom builds all of his tunes.
As far as abuse. I abuse her in the correct way so that she likes it and wants more. Meaning, my recipe has always been to allow the car time to warm up before really getting on it. Allow proper warming up Allow proper cooling down Keep all fluids topped off Oil changes every 5k miles Rarely put pedal to floor in 1st gear Never launched |
11-04-2022, 09:48 AM | #15 | |
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oh man, I have been called worst but engineer - there's a first time for everything I guess bless you, I really don't have anything to add - you literally said it all. I do like this F10 because it is quite subtle, yet can surprise fake M cars out there and give hello to Audis and my vision was to add a BUTTON, play dead, and when the next chav starts revving, give them hell and burnt rubber |
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11-04-2022, 10:45 PM | #16 | |
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11-09-2022, 12:18 PM | #17 |
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I was seriously thinking about a tune to compliment my charcoal filter delete / dry drop in (nothing fancy, just a stage 1), then I hit a softball sized chunk of concrete, tore the tire up, bent the rim, so I ended up dropping the tune money ($1500) on a set of Conti DWS06. That's life I guess, lol
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