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      07-18-2019, 01:56 PM   #45
Flying Ace
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Originally Posted by Beast27 View Post
Thinking someone with $ to burn should get the kit and post a thread on all what's needed to do the conversion. Parts, labor, etc. Would be interested in this project at the right price...
Evan on M4post did the full retrofit on his M4 and he has the most experience with it.
I actually was going to do this retrofit on my M6, but after talking to Evan, I realized it was a very extensive work that most shops has no experience doing. He recommended that the dealership do the work.

Ultimately, the dealership sells a "retrofit kit", you can call them and inquire what's in the kit and attempt to copy it piece by piece. That's your best bet to ensure you have all the parts. Not all parts are complete replacements from the OE steel setup but we're talking about various bolts and stuff. IIRC, the items are

1. Rotors
2. Pads
3. Calipers
4. Booster
5. Lines
6. Clips (various)
7. Bracket
8. Bolts (various)

IIRC, item 4-8 easily will add up to $500-$600 worth of parts alone, and those are much harder to find pre-owned. Meaning you're paying BMW full retail for them.

Ultimately, I computed that an used set of items 1-3, and new set of 4-8 plus labor would still come out close to $8k to get it all installed at an indy who has never done the work before. 2x for labor if you have a dealership do it and YMMV of dealer williing to install used parts not part of a retrofit kit they want to sell you. The full retrofit kit is like $12k at the dealership excluding labor which likely is another $1k.

I decided against doing this retrofit due to the following reasons:

1. It's quite hard finding a used set with decent life, most sellers are not willing to weigh the rotor which is required. There is a seller on 6post selling a front set now, even his has 50% life left. There's also no assurance from the seller you'll get the full list of parts. I'm talking about clips, brackets and bolts. And you'll easily spend a week figuring out what you're missing, and then you run the risk of still needing more parts while your car is on the lift during install, which means downtime and more cost.

2. The next buyer of the car will discount the value of the CCB. Buyers of cars with CCB will always see CCBs as a major financial liability simply because of the cost of rotor replacement at around 60k after install.

3. CCBs are great for street use, but you'll kill your wallet the moment you take it to a track. Wear characteristics change with track use. Evan has logged his mileage on his CCBs as he tracks his M4. IIRC, he's on his 3rd set now.

4. When a shop works on the car, you need to ask them about their liability insurance. As someone has mentioned, you can crack a rotor if you bump it in the wrong spot. For smaller shops, if you ask, they might reject your work due to their insufficient insurance or they'll ask you to sign a waiver. At least that's what I'll do if I owned my own shop.

Last edited by Flying Ace; 07-18-2019 at 02:29 PM..
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      07-18-2019, 04:45 PM   #46
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Im sorry but what is "DD" ?
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      07-18-2019, 06:08 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by G-M5 View Post
Im sorry but what is "DD" ?
Daily Driver
Some of my previous cars Include current: 2015 M5 CP, 2016 GLE43, and sold: 2018 Audi SQ5, 2015 Audi Q7, 2013 AMG ML63, 2010 AMG E63, 2006 BMW 750Li, 2003 Mercedes S550, 2001 Lexus GS430
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      07-18-2019, 07:59 PM   #48
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Appreciate the thorough write-up flying ace!
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