Bypass : DINAN1 : DINAN2 : Stock : TuningTechFS (only Stage 1 +116 HP +142 FT-LBS)

[Boosted M5]

Nice numbers! You're the second person I've seen on Bimmerpost that has put low 600 on stage 1. I'm curious to know though, what's the longevity expectancy of the cats and turbos on stage 1 with that kind of power? When I removed the cats and switched to catless I remember my cats with a bit of wear (honeycomb dust) when I ran stage one but not sure what power I was putting as I never put it on the dyno.

[1320racer]

Good question! I had conversations about this before arriving and again the day of my tune at Tuning Tech FS. I was told their customers, who use common sense, have had no issues with clutches, turbos and/or cats failing at the Stage 1 power level.

Originally Posted by 1320racer

Ickdeep: ...it was my intention to have Frank Smith at Tuning Tech FS install his Stage 2 tune. But we discussed longevity of my stock clutches. I could have Stage 2 installed but I’d need to be EXTREMELY careful. He said the torque WILL decimate the stock clutches! He has had a lot of experience and showed me actual clutches from a recent customer who insisted they would drive modestly until they had upgraded clutches installed.

Seeing and holding the recent customer’s clutches in my hands gave me second thoughts as they were bent, warped and discolored. Right then and there I asked him to install his Stage 1 tune instead...

I intend to eventually take part in some 1/2 mile events and will at some time install downpipes with 200 cell cats. When I do, I'll let everybody know the condition of my stock cats. Here are a couple of the scenarios I thought about and discussed with Frank...

Scenario (1) If you have a track day and hot lap 1/4 mile runs, the turbos and cats should have time to cool between runs as you return to the staging lanes and then starting line. This assumes you return to the staging lanes at a slow pace (10 mph).

Scenario (2) If you find yourself in a ~1/2 mile roll race, you will be fine. Just don't push the vehicle again for a couple minutes as it will cool quickly once you return to 'normal' highway speeds.

Frank asked if I wanted the cold start delete and I asked what he suggested. He mentioned the stock "cold start" program in our DMEs can actually prematurely harm catalytic converters by taking them from air temperatures, which are sometimes below freezing, and heat them up as quickly as possible to very high temperatures to reduce emissions. This ultra-quick temperature change is not good for any material and he suggests the removal of the "cold start" regardless of your tune. For those with decatted down pipes, of course, it is done to quiet things down upon start up.

[VADER332]

This is great info as I may go with some type of stage 1 tune.

[1320racer]

Join the fun today...
https://f10.m5post.com/forums/showpo...76&postcount=4

[turbof80]

HI 1320racer, nice to meet another member from MD! Whereabout are you? I'm in Gaithersburg area. Been trying to find a local [small] group to have some fun with!

If you see a Steel Gray 2015 ///M with CF GTS hood, M performance CF spoiler, rear V series CF diffuser and small high kick spoiler. If you see me give me a shout. I'm all over Montgomery Village. Where do you take your car to get worked done in MD? I'm looking for a trustworthy indy shop specializing in BMWs and tuning them.

Based on the numbers you posted, you were making more power w/Dinan harness removed entirely vs. harnessed + bypass mode? I'd expect same power in these two scenarios; not significantly more power from stock tune with harness removed... any idea what that's all about?

When you removed the Dinan unit was it entirely plug and play? Meaning you remove the unit, reconnect the battery and such, turn the car back on and you're done? No check engine lights / coding or otherwise needed? And based on your #s looks like you end up with MORE power too!! Am I understanding all this correctly haha?

Appreciate the help and info, thank you!

[1320racer]

Originally Posted by turbof80

HI 1320racer, nice to meet another member from MD! Whereabout are you? I'm in Gaithersburg area. Been trying to find a local [small] group to have some fun with!

If you see a Steel Gray 2015 ///M with CF GTS hood, M performance CF spoiler, rear V series CF diffuser and small high kick spoiler. If you see me give me a shout. I'm all over Montgomery Village. Where do you take your car to get worked done in MD? I'm looking for a trustworthy indy shop specializing in BMWs and tuning them.

Based on the numbers you posted, you were making more power w/Dinan harness removed entirely vs. harnessed + bypass mode? I'd expect same power in these two scenarios; not significantly more power from stock tune with harness removed... any idea what that's all about?

When you removed the Dinan unit was it entirely plug and play? Meaning you remove the unit, reconnect the battery and such, turn the car back on and you're done? No check engine lights / coding or otherwise needed? And based on your #s looks like you end up with MORE power too!! Am I understanding all this correctly haha?

I apologize for the delay, I'm just seeing your post. The Dinan harness seems to work well on most vehicles but did not work well on my particular F10 M5.

There were no software changes, and I removed the Dinan harness this way on my M5... see post #19

Removing the harness is not difficult. For me it was more of the fear of the unknown since I did not install the harness and had no instructions. From start to finish it took around 15 minutes. It would have been easier if the engine bay was cool. Unfortunately, my motor was screaming hot after all the setup dyno runs and baseline pulls.

Here are the suggested steps if you are going to remove the harness.
Remove negative battery cable in trunk (10mm socket)
Open hood and remove engine cover
Remove DINAN Negative (near air filter) and Positive (under red plastic cover) power cables located on the US passenger side using a torx bit (T-50 torx)
Remove DINAN harness at each DME:
US passenger side -- Remove DME cables starting from firewall moving towards the front of vehicle
US driver side -- Remove DME cables starting from front of vehicle moving towards the firewall. I had to pull the driver's DME from the mounting tower to provide sufficient room to detach and remove the cables
Completely disconnect and remove DINAN piggy-back cables; you may need a pair of wire cutters to cut wire ties
(1 gnd, 1 pwr, 6 cables connected to each DME = 14 cables)
Reinstall all OEM connections to both DME's in the opposite order they were removed
The DINAN control module was held in place by Velcro in the engine bay. I simply removed it and peeled off the Velcro
Reinstall engine cover and negative battery cable in trunk (10mm socket)

I will send a PM and hopefully our paths will cross soon:-)

[qbeers14]

Novice on these cars but I let TTFS do his thing…..photo of results attached.

I’ve been back four times in two years. Stage 1, stage 2, back to 1, and insanity!!!!

Always a pleasure to hang and learn.

I recently got a “lesson learned” from a brake boosted 340i in a
Couple roll races in “Peru”.

Went to Frank and said the recent time felt slow in the 40-120 range.

He essentially said, and I’m totally paraphrasing with dramatic emphasis, “Hold My Beer…”

Pray for my clutch packs. 🙏