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      12-11-2012, 04:25 PM   #1
Ryan@IND
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F10 Door Handle Removal & Installation

Tools used:
  • Torx15 x 18" driver
  • Nylon prybar
  • Flashlight


The first step is removing the rubber plug located on the door jamb portion of the door panel. Removing this plug enables access to the Torx15 bolt that secures the handle assembly in place. Remove the plug using your fingers or a nylon trim removal tool.







Now that the rubber piece is removed take a quick peek with a flashlight and locate the position of the T15 screw. Although our technician used a 18" long driver you can get by with a standard 7.5" tool. Simply remove the screw and move on to step number 3.





The T15 screw is the only major component securing the handle assembly to the door. The only other area secured to the door is the front portion of the handle. Now with light pressure pull the handle toward you as if you were opening the door.



As you begin to pull the handle you will notice the front portion of the handle is secured to the door via a 2 pin connector. These connectors are removed by unlatching the plastic tab on each pin. For this step our technician used a angled pick, but this step allows for some improvisation.







Now that the 2 pin connector you can safely remove the handle from the door.



Installation is simply the reverse procedure, but please note that while the handle is removed the door will not properly latch. Do not close the door while the handles are not attached to the car.
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      12-12-2012, 03:19 PM   #2
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So when are you going to have a kit to de-chrome the handles?
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      12-12-2012, 05:33 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DietCokeOfEvil View Post
So when are you going to have a kit to de-chrome the handles?
We have a thread up in the sponsor classified section. Feel free to contact us with any further questions.

http://f10.m5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=778634
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      07-04-2013, 02:28 AM   #4
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For reference, on my F10 this was a captive screw, and so I couldn't lose it into the door. Be careful to check your own, though.
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      07-05-2013, 10:53 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UniqueCheese View Post
For reference, on my F10 this was a captive screw, and so I couldn't lose it into the door. Be careful to check your own, though.
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      05-03-2017, 02:24 AM   #6
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Do you know which pin connector is for key less go and which for LED lights? Or it works together?

EDIT (answer):
The bigger plug is for key less go function. The smallest is for the LED light.
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Last edited by rockybor; 05-04-2017 at 01:09 AM.. Reason: Answer myself
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      01-22-2018, 08:13 PM   #7
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Hi folks.....sorry to reopen an old thread. Just wonder 2 things. 1- can I assume "captive screw" means it won't fall into the door...can someone elaborate so I don't have to test the door panel off? B- I'm 99% my comfort access is messing up because one of the drivers side door handles is bad. How can I diagnose which one is the culprit is front vs rear? When I am on the passenger side everything seems to work ok. When I'm on the drivers side I get very weird comfort access behavior. Odd unlocking, the finger sensor not working, and the unlocking over and over like I'm holding the button on the fob. Thx.
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      01-27-2018, 01:38 AM   #8
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You are assuming correctly. Walk toward your locked car from different angles (ie from the front then from the back). Note when the car unlocks on it's own (with the fob in your pocket). That's probably the culprit.
I simply disconnected the comfort access in my defective handle until I was able to get a new one....they're not cheap $280ish. BTW this is also a way to diagnose...disconnect the one you think it is and if the strange behavior stops, you have your defective handle. My guess is on the rear handle. What color is your car?
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      01-27-2018, 07:07 AM   #9
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Thanks fast400. Im leaning towards the driver's door actually. When I touch the ridges on the rear it seems to work. The front is a little wonky. It's warmer this week so now it seems to be less of an issue. Still for 280 I'd like to solve it. It doesn't unlock when I walk up perse, but it does when I grab the handle. Thoughts on why I believe it's the rear? Also remember on a cold ass day the handles we're frozen. I wonder if I pulled too hard and finished it off then.....

I have soft close and CA. If I take one off, will the door shut properly and allow me to lock and test it?

Color is dark graphite metallic.
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      01-27-2018, 12:08 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elite. View Post
Thanks fast400. Im leaning towards the driver's door actually. When I touch the ridges on the rear it seems to work. The front is a little wonky. It's warmer this week so now it seems to be less of an issue. Still for 280 I'd like to solve it. It doesn't unlock when I walk up perse, but it does when I grab the handle. Thoughts on why I believe it's the rear? Also remember on a cold ass day the handles we're frozen. I wonder if I pulled too hard and finished it off then.....

I have soft close and CA. If I take one off, will the door shut properly and allow me to lock and test it?

Color is dark graphite metallic.
I've heard of several back door handles going wonky. Something you can do which only takes 1-2 actual minutes. Loosen the torx screw from the side, then pull the door handle out (careful wires attached) unplug the larger of the two plugs then put everything back together. If the problem is gone, that's the handle.
I would leave it like this until you have the new handle, as the handle wakes the car up...if it keeps up too much you'll eventually get a low battery warning.
PS- Handles come painted from the factory (last 7 of the vin needed)
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      06-24-2018, 01:53 AM   #11
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After replacing the defective handle or handles. Does the car have to be programmed or initialized?
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      06-28-2018, 06:30 AM   #12
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No. There is no coding involved. Nor are there any errors if you disconnect the larger plug.
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      03-14-2021, 05:42 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fast400 View Post
No. There is no coding involved. Nor are there any errors if you disconnect the larger plug.
Hi

My CA handles are also playing up and causing battery drain. I want to disconnect the big connector to disable the CA feature on each handle. I attempted it today but got a bit nervous and stopped.

I have a 2011 F02 Pre-LCI and have noticed some differences in the assembly, which prompted me to stop.

The single Torx bolt was actually a T25 and I turned it anti-clockwise thinking it would stop as reported by others on the net, but it just became loose and free as though it’s ready to be pulled out? This made me panic and I just screwed it back in as didn’t want it dropping into the door. Anyone have any advice? The handle was still not pulling out with the bolt completely loose, I’m assuming because the bolt requires pulling out a bit more with nose pliers? I’m hoping it’s still a non-removable bolt that can’t fall out? Not keen on pulling it out if it’s going to be difficult to put back in?
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      03-18-2021, 06:07 AM   #14
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F11 535D Comfort access fix

I had a similar issue with the battery drain message each morning and the car locking /unlocking randomly and not recognizing the car fob on start up .

The issue for me (F11 535D 2013) was each door handle has a comfort access sensor and diagnosing which one was at fault was just a simple case of walking towards the car at an angle towards each door and seeing which one caused the lock ,unlock issue.

Once identified ( seems the rear doors are more susceptible) i removed the handle using the brilliantly simple guide above ( Its a captive nut on mine too) so wont fall out. I was able to blow compressed air into the handle for a good 5 minutes and it removed the water which had collected inside, i then sat it down with a hairdryer carefully positioned at the nearest hole to the sensor and completely dried it out.

I refitted and so far that seems to have cured the issue ( I'm 1 week on and no re-occurrence). The handles are £286 direct from main stealer and are pre painted so its worth trying this before you buy a new handle
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