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      04-29-2016, 09:35 PM   #23
ur20v
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Lots of opinions and theories here on heat soak.

I have spent time with thermo couples placed in the engine bay and by the air inlets in front of the radiator and could find NO difference in temps i.e temps rise at the same rate, hit the same max temps when sat and 'soaked' and dropped at the same rate when moving - same thing has been done by Trevor at BMS. IATs are the same.

Also as soon as you move over ~10 mph the engine bay temps have dropped near ambient and ignition timing pull. Don't forget you can use full torque in first due to traction and time/load in gear so no timing will be pulled and you will already be doing over 30 mph and fully flushed the engine bay with fresh ambient air.

Don't forget when stationary the air in front of the radiator but still inside the front bumper cover is as hot as the air in the engine compartment.

When I do fit my Ramair filters I will do the same tests just because I like testing.

Note on OEM air boxes - they are $3K and the lids are not avaliable seprately... so just cut neatly with +1" left on the lid so you can rejoin using the Ramair provided hose and clips.
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      04-29-2016, 09:54 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Northern X5M
I am sure you will be fine once moving and the IATs come down. But from a stop, drag racing or road racing you will get some heat soak and pulled timing. I am also sure those modified cars you mentioned are probably not pulling as much timing as say a stock car.
Once my wireless temp probe arrives, I will test the temp idle as well as moving.

Hey guys (speaking in general) there's no need speculate or bash. It was a $90 investment and it sounds amazing. Even if I lose a couple HP, it is worth it just for the sound. I'm just sharing my DIY, being a value added forum member. If you are not helping me gather real world data, your comments don't mean much to me or anyone for that matters.

Agree, OEM box without the charcoal element are hard to beat. Notice I didn't make any power gain claim, so no need to get all wound up on this thread. This is a simple and cheap DIY for those who want more turbo spool sound. As far as timing and heat soak, you guys have 0 data or facts to prove this for the F10 M5. Don't give me dyno facts either, as the car is running at a stand still.

I will prove or disprove my point with real world IAT data soon.

Cheers.
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      04-29-2016, 09:58 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ur20v
Lots of opinions and theories here on heat soak.

I have spent time with thermo couples placed in the engine bay and by the air inlets in front of the radiator and could find NO difference in temps i.e temps rise at the same rate, hit the same max temps when sat and 'soaked' and dropped at the same rate when moving - same thing has been done by Trevor at BMS. IATs are the same.

Also as soon as you move over ~10 mph the engine bay temps have dropped near ambient and ignition timing pull. Don't forget you can use full torque in first due to traction and time/load in gear so no timing will be pulled and you will already be doing over 30 mph and fully flushed the engine bay with fresh ambient air.

Don't forget when stationary the air in front of the radiator but still inside the front bumper cover is as hot as the air in the engine compartment.

When I do fit my Ramair filters I will do the same tests just because I like testing.

Note on OEM air boxes - they are $3K and the lids are not avaliable seprately... so just cut neatly with +1" left on the lid so you can rejoin using the Ramair provided hose and clips.
Thank you. Lots of keyboard engineers on here, but it's expected. When everyone agrees with what you are doing, then you are doing it wrong.
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      04-29-2016, 10:08 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JNoSol View Post
I'm just sharing my DIY, being a value added forum member.
And it's greatly appreciated!

I'm so tempted to just go BMS + Ramair (if 175mm fits) and save myself some money when I go to return it back to stock
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      04-29-2016, 10:19 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheHouseWon
Quote:
Originally Posted by JNoSol View Post
I'm just sharing my DIY, being a value added forum member.
And it's greatly appreciated!

I'm so tempted to just go BMS + Ramair (if 175mm fits) and save myself some money when I go to return it back to stock
Thanks bro. I'm assuming BMS inlets are 80mm. 175mm are fine, my 150mm has lots of room left. I'm doing a flyby vid this weekend.
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      04-29-2016, 11:38 PM   #28
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jNoSol, when you do your testing take photos of thermocouple locations and temps plus speeds etc to help the na-sayers.

It would be good the data log speed against temps and IATs in one graph- will look at one of our multi channel meters which will give temps at all locations and work out how to over lay speed and IAT's.

Looking forward to you videos.
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      04-30-2016, 11:27 AM   #29
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Flyby vid, done with Canon 60d with Rode mic. Notice by Euro brake flash coding, first time seeing it works.

Thanks financenick

As promised TheHouseWon

After a dozen passes, the intakes temps felt normal to the touch. The water to air intercoolers were cold as ice, which is all that matters. I haven't installed the air scoops yes to get even more fresh air in.

As a reminder, no HP claim here. Stock airbox without the carbon filters is always best. BMW engineers know their stuff, we can't improve it I don't care what the $2-3k intakes companies claim. Even BMS said there's no gains with their intakes, which is why I love BMS (honest and no M tax). If I get bored with this setup, I'll get Eventuri since I'm a CF whore.

But for sound, you can't beat this $90 mod. Even with good mic, it doesn't do any justice. The cabin sounds so much nicer, lots of swoosh and wastegate sounds.

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Last edited by JNoSol; 04-30-2016 at 11:47 AM..
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      04-30-2016, 05:47 PM   #30
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Can't hear the swoosh sound at all , this is what I'm looking for as sound goes
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      04-30-2016, 06:03 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MpowerMike View Post
Can't hear the swoosh sound at all , this is what I'm looking for as sound goes
The sound is there, it has the similar metallic swoosh like MSR and won't be as loud since it's under the hood. Having the DPs increase sound too, mine is completely stock. I guess I should've rev a bit, lol.

That sputter and swoosh sound is present, it's loud and clear in the cabin. I can assure you it's pretty loud in person. I'll do other vids later.
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Last edited by JNoSol; 04-30-2016 at 06:11 PM..
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      05-01-2016, 11:02 AM   #32
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Which ones do you think will make more sound ? The 150 or 170mm?
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      05-01-2016, 11:11 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MpowerMike
Which ones do you think will make more sound ? The 150 or 170mm?
Both should be the same, 150mm fits better IMO. Doesn't hurt to go 175mm though, they fit as well.

Air scoops are must to convert the passive OEM air ducts into active.
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      05-01-2016, 12:46 PM   #34
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*M-SCOR's ready to go in

Modified SCOop to Ramair





Used the ol' Dremel 3000 to cut and smooth out FN pvc's

You guys with the $$$$ intakes are really missing out on all the fun and savings that come with DIY!

Last edited by TheHouseWon; 05-01-2016 at 12:53 PM..
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      05-01-2016, 04:21 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JNoSol View Post
Both should be the same, 150mm fits better IMO. Doesn't hurt to go 175mm though, they fit as well.

Air scoops are must to convert the passive OEM air ducts into active.

Where do I get the air scoops? I have night vision so the RPi scoops don't work with night vision M5's.
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      05-01-2016, 04:35 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MpowerMike
Quote:
Originally Posted by JNoSol View Post
Both should be the same, 150mm fits better IMO. Doesn't hurt to go 175mm though, they fit as well.

Air scoops are must to convert the passive OEM air ducts into active.

Where do I get the air scoops? I have night vision so the RPi scoops don't work with night vision M5's.
See TheHouseWon post above. Our buddy from the UK shipped them to us. They are just PVC vents with 90 degree angle. Around $20 from the UK plus shipping. Just need to plastidip them black.
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      05-02-2016, 06:10 AM   #37
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JNoSol,

What bluetooth thermocouples have you gone for ?
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      05-02-2016, 08:44 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ur20v View Post
JNoSol,

What bluetooth thermocouples have you gone for ?
I cancelled the one I ordered, it was too bulky. I'm now looking at DashCommand OBD II app. Do you know if it monitors or show IAT?
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      05-02-2016, 05:20 PM   #39
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Quote:
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Which ones do you think will make more sound ? The 150 or 170mm?
TheHouseWon

Revving vid... I don't like doing it to my engine, I let her plenty of time to cool off after.

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      05-02-2016, 07:55 PM   #40
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Sounds mmmeeeeaaaannnnn!!

Your IG clip highlights the diverter valves more. This one highlights the demons.
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      05-02-2016, 08:14 PM   #41
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Cut the entire inside portion (shorter of the 2 90* angles) to increase surface exposed to the incoming air.
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      05-02-2016, 09:04 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheHouseWon


Cut the entire inside portion (shorter of the 2 90* angles) to increase surface exposed to the incoming air.
Looks really good. You plastidip yours?
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      05-02-2016, 09:31 PM   #43
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Spray painted Satin Black
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      05-02-2016, 09:45 PM   #44
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Spray painted Satin Black
Very cool. Can't wait to install mine. financenick
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