suspension upgrades

[vafan13]

now that I've put the M5 into hibernation after my first glorious "year" with the car, my thoughts turn to what I might look to do to it when I get it back out. what I'd like to focus on is making it more responsive, or otherwise feel "lighter on its feet", and improve feedback. Here's what I'm looking at, in order of how I'd want to do them:

KW V3 coilovers
Dinan swaybars
monoball thrust arm bearings (either dinan or turner, not sure if it matters?)

Does this sound about right? Am I missing anything that might be a higher priority? Are the monoballs worth it?

[13M5F10]

Originally Posted by vafan13

now that I've put the M5 into hibernation after my first glorious "year" with the car, my thoughts turn to what I might look to do to it when I get it back out. what I'd like to focus on is making it more responsive, or otherwise feel "lighter on its feet", and improve feedback. Here's what I'm looking at, in order of how I'd want to do them:

KW V3 coilovers
Dinan swaybars
monoball thrust arm bearings (either dinan or turner, not sure if it matters?)

Does this sound about right? Am I missing anything that might be a higher priority? Are the monoballs worth it?

I'd start with sway bars first, you may see enough improvement to satisfy you. Then add the coil overs and camber control arm.

Depending on your mileage, you may be just as satisfied with KW HAS over coil overs. I'd only go coil overs if you plan to track the car or if the existing suspension is about to go out soon.

I suggested the control arms because once lowered, you'll max out the camber on the stock setup possibly and have uneven wear and tear on the tires. I learned the hard way. You could find a lot of info on them from others who experienced it.

If i could do it all over again, sway bars first.

[vafan13]

Originally Posted by 13M5F10

I'd start with sway bars first, you may see enough improvement to satisfy you. Then add the coil overs and camber control arm.

Depending on your mileage, you may be just as satisfied with KW HAS over coil overs. I'd only go coil overs if you plan to track the car or if the existing suspension is about to go out soon.

I suggested the control arms because once lowered, you'll max out the camber on the stock setup possibly and have uneven wear and tear on the tires. I learned the hard way. You could find a lot of info on them from others who experienced it.

If i could do it all over again, sway bars first.

Thanks! I had been waffling between the two on priority. also helps that the sways are cheaper. Are the sways possible to install oneself?

[13M5F10]

Originally Posted by vafan13

Thanks! I had been waffling between the two on priority. also helps that the sways are cheaper. Are the sways possible to install oneself?

Yes, you can install yourself. Fairly easy if you follow instructions and have the proper tools.

Doesn't hurt to get the alignment checked after. Typically do not need it but never hurts.

[TLK]

Get the KW V3's. Dinan sways are optional. I planned to get them also, but never have after dialing in the V3s. The KW V3s are probably how the car should have been delivered instead of the adjustable suspension that does nothing well. KW V3's are about $3K as I recall. You get a lot for your money. Dinan sways are just a pair of sway bars, and it costs you $1000.

[EnderG60]

Street use and track days, competition front sway bar and KW HAS is plenty.

Competitive Track use, dinan sways and the KW V3's.

Thurst arms with either setup if you are going low as stated.

If youre going it in parts, start with sway bars. I did my comp front bar and it was more than good enough for hard street use. No point spending $4-5k when $1500 will do all you need.

[Davie 3 door]

I have the Kw Has kit on the car fantastic going back in to get the adjustable control arms as it’s just out following an alignment

[vafan13]

Originally Posted by TLK

Get the KW V3's. Dinan sways are optional. I planned to get them also, but never have after dialing in the V3s. The KW V3s are probably how the car should have been delivered instead of the adjustable suspension that does nothing well. KW V3's are about $3K as I recall. You get a lot for your money. Dinan sways are just a pair of sway bars, and it costs you $1000.

This more or less echoes the review thread mastek wrote back in 2016 for the V3s, which was my initial motivation for wanting them, despite the cost. Guess we'll see how I feel come springtime!

Thanks for all the replies.

[black_F10M5]

I have the kw V3's and imo that with my BBS wheel setup was the best thing I did for the car. It feels much more nimble while remaining firm and planted, never harsh.

[vafan13]

Originally Posted by black_F10M5

I have the kw V3's and imo that with my BBS wheel setup was the best thing I did for the car. It feels much more nimble while remaining firm and planted, never harsh.

Thanks! Last spring KW had a mail-in rebate thing going. Perhaps they will this year as well. What is typical for install cost?

[TLK]

Too much attention to tuning and power adding on these boards. Out of the box the most glaring problem with the f10 M5 cp is that it doesn't handle and ride like an m car should. My e60 545i sport package was better.

I paid about $2300 for installation, corner balancing, aggressive street alignment but labor for front tire mounting and balancing is probably included in that.

It was a reputable Bay Area bmw tuner/race shop and they did excellent work although they didn't read the instructions that say the shocks are preset at the basic settings and gave it to me on the softest settings which floated like crazy over bumps at speed and yet still low speed cornered better than stock. I set it back to the recommended start settings at home and have only gone one click up from there .

[vafan13]

Originally Posted by TLK

Too much attention to tuning and power adding on these boards. Out of the box the most glaring problem with the f10 M5 cp is that it doesn't handle and ride like an m car should. My e60 545i sport package was better.

I paid about $2300 for installation, corner balancing, aggressive street alignment but labor for front tire mounting and balancing is probably included in that.

Thanks. That's more-or-less my opinion. I don't feel the need for more power until I get to I'll-be-arrested-and-lose-my-license speeds, which is very rare, so I wanted to focus on handling, which as you said is where the deficit lies. Especially true in my non-CP '13.

$2300 is more than I was expecting, but I guess I really didn't have a good feel for the cost. Perhaps SE Michigan will be a bit cheaper than SF.