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      05-25-2019, 02:25 PM   #1
Dwaynos
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Ghetto Exhaustmeister

So after i did my back box/muffler mod last week the cold start was a bit loud and didn't want to upset my neighbors. The mod sounds great and I would recommend this to anyone who doesn't have money to burn.

I contemplated getting a tune and setting up to allow exhaust flap control but I'm trying not to spend to much money at the moment. I then looked at the Exhaustmeister, attempted to purchase on through the forum but had already sold. To be honest i really hate the remote that comes with it, its ugly and makes it look like i have a nasty aftermarket alarm. Then there's the fact that i would have to have it hanging around in the car or on the key ring and didn't fancy this.

I decided to wire a switch in to allow me to control the flaps at my leisure. Doing it this way allowed to me to switch from ecu control to fully grounded (open).

Not a long procedure and cost me 1.49.
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      05-25-2019, 02:37 PM   #2
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Hey that looks good but I still prefer my remote,it's in the 'secret compartment' always haha.
From what I see you need a bigger brake pedal extension going to the left to make the driving experience more exciting and say goodbye to heel and toe.
Left foot braking like on race cars has made the car more enjoyable for me with quicker reaction times.
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      05-25-2019, 02:43 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M5theonlyone View Post
Hey that looks good but I still prefer my remote,it's in the 'secret compartment' always haha.
From what I see you need a bigger brake pedal extension going to the left to make the driving experience more exciting and say goodbye to heel and toe.
Left foot braking like on race cars has made the car more enjoyable for me with quicker reaction times.
The only way i would change my pedal is if i used one from a 5 series with the auto box. I would never use those pedal extenders. They look like some shit out of a max power magazine. . I know what you mean though, i've never really got on with the pedal.
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      05-25-2019, 02:51 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dwaynos View Post
The only way i would change my pedal is if i used one from a 5 series with the auto box. I would never use those pedal extenders. They look like some shit out of a max power magazine. . I know what you mean though, i've never really got on with the pedal.
Obviously use a metal plate not plastic with a tough rubber piece in between.You'll need one size larger locating bolts for security with the contact brackets and some careful positioning to get it right so the top stamp plate can fit decently.
Look up my past thread on this, mine's holding like it's welded on.
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      05-25-2019, 03:07 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M5theonlyone View Post
Obviously use a metal plate not plastic with a tough rubber piece in between.You'll need one size larger locating bolts for security with the contact brackets and some careful positioning to get it right so the top stamp plate can fit decently.
Look up my past thread on this, mine's holding like it's welded on.
I can get a genuine pedal from a 5 series for 25. If i were to change i'd go that route.

Custom Intakes and Catted Downpipes coming next hopefully.
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      05-25-2019, 04:13 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dwaynos View Post
I can get a genuine pedal from a 5 series for 25. If i were to change i'd go that route.

Custom Intakes and Catted Downpipes coming next hopefully.
You sure it would fit from the top end..part numbers.
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      05-25-2019, 04:34 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M5theonlyone View Post
You sure it would fit from the top end..part numbers.
Part numbers wouldn't match up as the pedals are different. The bracket would likely be the same but would the connection to the master cylinder be the same. Only way to be sure is to gamble 25. I'm not mega fussed about it though to be honest.
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      05-25-2019, 06:18 PM   #8
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Great timing, I've been thinking about doing this. I was thinking of building my own RF controlled relay if I didn't feel like running the wires, and exhaustmeister is a lot cheaper than some other similar products I'd seen selling from Germany.

How was the job pulling all the trim to run the wires? Did anything break?

A 3 position control would be ideal (ECU control, open, closed), but I'm mainly interested in the opposite of most: I want a stealth control to prevent the butterfly from opening and keep the exhaust quiet. Throttle settings sport and sport plus keep the exhaust open more than the efficient setting does, so I have to trade off the sport plus mode vs. sound in some situations. If I hard wire like you, I can have it all. With exhaustmeister, it looks like they only do ECU or open, though I could probably adapt it to ECU or closed if I wanted to do that. I know you can do similar control using a BT OBD-II dongle and phone app that sends diagnostic messages that override the ECU control, but I don't want to go that route.
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      05-26-2019, 02:53 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TLK View Post
Great timing, I've been thinking about doing this. I was thinking of building my own RF controlled relay if I didn't feel like running the wires, and exhaustmeister is a lot cheaper than some other similar products I'd seen selling from Germany.

How was the job pulling all the trim to run the wires? Did anything break?

A 3 position control would be ideal (ECU control, open, closed), but I'm mainly interested in the opposite of most: I want a stealth control to prevent the butterfly from opening and keep the exhaust quiet. Throttle settings sport and sport plus keep the exhaust open more than the efficient setting does, so I have to trade off the sport plus mode vs. sound in some situations. If I hard wire like you, I can have it all. With exhaustmeister, it looks like they only do ECU or open, though I could probably adapt it to ECU or closed if I wanted to do that. I know you can do similar control using a BT OBD-II dongle and phone app that sends diagnostic messages that override the ECU control, but I don't want to go that route.
I did contemplate building an rf controlled relay myself but I don't like loose remotes etc. Pulling the trims was extremely easy, nothing at all got broken. I'd estimate less than 15 minutes to have every piece out from the secret compartment to the trims in the boot.

You should be careful when switching the valves to fully closed without allowing the ECU to intervene, this could create unwanted back pressure when you give it a boot full if you forget to open them up again. As mine is wired now, the switch has 2 positions, both on. One side feeds the ECU to the solenoid like factory and the other side just goes to ground.

I did notice that the flaps open differently to what the forum says. After approximately 1 minute the ECU opens the valves and appears to keep them open while driving, I have only driven the car in town so far though, maybe when I get to a steady speed on the motorway etc they may close. If they don't close this renders my mod pretty useless and as you stated a 3 stage switch will need to he installed. I only really fitted this to keep cold start quiet and coming home late at night. It also has the added bonus of closing the valves when cruising to eliminate the drone i get from my back box mod.

If you need any advice just drop me a PM.
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      05-26-2019, 03:31 AM   #10
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Found this, looks interesting but it appears to be incorrect.
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      05-26-2019, 05:07 PM   #11
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My exhaustmeister was £25 from eBay secondhand and took 15 mins to fit
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      05-26-2019, 07:54 PM   #12
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Can exhaustmeister be controlled by the Homelink garage opener in the rear view mirror if you train it to the exhaustmeister fob?
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      05-27-2019, 05:11 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TLK View Post
Can exhaustmeister be controlled by the Homelink garage opener in the rear view mirror if you train it to the exhaustmeister fob?
Yes it can.
There are instructions on their website.
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      05-27-2019, 10:19 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TLK View Post
Can exhaustmeister be controlled by the Homelink garage opener in the rear view mirror if you train it to the exhaustmeister fob?
Exactly, you can simply program it into your Homelink and use those buttons. Programming is the same as you would a garage door opener.
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      05-28-2019, 09:30 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by emesdub View Post
Exactly, you can simply program it into your Homelink and use those buttons. Programming is the same as you would a garage door opener.
This is what I did. Quick and easy, and no need to use the fobs that were included.
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      05-28-2019, 04:10 PM   #16
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Do you need one or two buttons on the Homelink mirror to control EM? The demo videos do look at times like the guy alternated between two buttons on the remote fob.

There seem to a number of 12V powered remote RF switches similar that can be used to build an exhaust control. $139 seems pretty steep just for a system with the OEM plug ends. It just has to be in the same ~400 MHz band that Homelink uses to integrate it similarly.

Dwaynos, if you get a 3 position switch you can have ECU, open, closed if you wish on your hardwired setup. For the closed position, just don't connect to anything, and leave the line floating. That's how the ECU closes the valve.
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