M5 Engine Seized + complete rebuild (with Pics)

[Mjansari]

Hi,
Back in December I managed to seize the engine in my 2012 M5. I took off from a standing start not realising that the car was in manual mode instead of Auto. It hit the redline (must have been for about 10 seconds max), the engine cut off immediately and would not start (or even crank)

After having the car towed and diagnosed by a BMW specialist it turned up that the engine had seized up (Rod Bearings, 3&4 main Journals damage, bent crankshaft, as well as blown turbo, infact all the rubber pipes had melted around the turbos (all this in less then 30 seconds is hard to believe)

I found a BMW engine specialist (they specialise in M5s) in London who started the rebuild and reconditioning progress. They have had the car for a few weeks and I have attached to this post some photos of progress etc. The new engine looks like new and is being fitted next week, I am so looking forward for picking the car up.

The new engine will need to be run in for 1000 miles and then go back to the garage for an inspection and follow on oil change.

They have kept me updated on progress with photographs of the build.

A few questions I have
1. What engine oil would you recommend, the engine rebuild said to us thicker oil they recommend Millers Racing Oil 10w 60. What are you thoughts on this?
2. Any other members here who have had any engine rebuilds? Any tips or pointers on issues to things to look out for?

[M5Rick]

Stick to what's recommended in the handbook,0-30 or 0-40.
10-60 is not recommended at all, I personally use Edge 0-30 as I'm happy it gets to the tight tolerance rod bearings quicker than a thicker oil.

[SuperF10]

I run Liqui Moly 5W-40 MolyGen only, which is BMW LL-01 approved. I run 5W-40 because I am in a very hot climate most of the year.

I believe we are supposed to run LL-01 in the US, you should be running LL-04 in Europe, due to the sulfur differences in our fuels. Just google LL-04 and pick an oil.

You should not be running 10w-60 (bad for your rod bearings). The available viscosities for LL-04 are 0W-30, 0W-40, 5W-30 and 5W-40.

[SCD-1983]

Originally Posted by SuperF10

I run Liqui Moly 5W-40 MolyGen only, which is BMW LL-01 approved. I run 5W-40 because I am in a very hot climate most of the year.

I believe we are supposed to run LL-01 in the US, you should be running LL-04 in Europe, due to the sulfur differences in our fuels. Just google LL-04 and pick an oil.

You should not be running 10w-60 (bad for your rod bearings). The available viscosities for LL-04 are 0W-30, 0W-40, 5W-30 and 5W-40.

Great post, thank you!
Im using Motul 8100X-max 0w40, it's approved and I haven't had any issues. My M5 is DME tuned and now at 95k miles, running strong since day 1.

[M5_Raz]

Originally Posted by SuperF10

I run Liqui Moly 5W-40 MolyGen only, which is BMW LL-01 approved. I run 5W-40 because I am in a very hot climate most of the year.

I believe we are supposed to run LL-01 in the US, you should be running LL-04 in Europe, due to the sulfur differences in our fuels. Just google LL-04 and pick an oil.

You should not be running 10w-60 (bad for your rod bearings). The available viscosities for LL-04 are 0W-30, 0W-40, 5W-30 and 5W-40.

Liqui Moly 5w-40 Molygen is recommended, but it is not approved. It's a big difference that they hope to fool customers and users with.

[M5Rick]

Mobil 1, 0-40 European formula was on the ok to use list then the approval mysteriously disappeared from the can labels.
Some owners with high mile (over 100k) M's have been using this oil with no reported problems.

[texsn95]

Castrol Edge 0-40 here, no issues.

[SuperF10]

Originally Posted by M5_Raz

Liqui Moly 5w-40 Molygen is recommended, but it is not approved. It's a big difference that they hope to fool customers and users with.

You're right, it's not approved. I see now that they are putting recommended, when I bought the oil originally I knew it wasn’t LL-01 approved but recently looked at their website and they tricked me.

For the record, Molygen is Leichtlauf (which is LL-01 approved) with the addition of friction modifiers (molybdenum and tungsten which are combined and become homogenous, but the mixture works similarly to MoS2 and WS2) for additional lubricity/friction reduction. Plus the addition of a dye that reacts to UV light. I believe it’s not able to pass LL-01 because of the friction modifiers. It’s kinda gimmicky to have green oil, but I like not having to worry about adding anything additional after an oil change.

[calicolorado]

The naked engine block is a seriously beautiful piece of engineering art. Thanks for posting these pics!

I'll second what others have said about oil-LL01 approval (in the states) or LL04 in Europe. Castrol 0w40 recently dropped the LL01 rating, but it is great oil and safe to use as it retains similarly stringent Porsche A40 and Mercedes 229.5. I have BMW Twin Power Turbo 5w30 (Shell/Pennzoil) in my car now, but 10 quarts of Castrol 0w40 wait on the shelf.

[M5_Raz]

Originally Posted by SuperF10

You're right, it's not approved. I see now that they are putting recommended, when I bought the oil originally I knew it wasn’t LL-01 approved but recently looked at their website and they tricked me.

For the record, Molygen is Leichtlauf (which is LL-01 approved) with the addition of friction modifiers (molybdenum and tungsten which are combined and become homogenous, but the mixture works similarly to MoS2 and WS2) for additional lubricity/friction reduction. Plus the addition of a dye that reacts to UV light. I believe it’s not able to pass LL-01 because of the friction modifiers. It’s kinda gimmicky to have green oil, but I like not having to worry about adding anything additional after an oil change.

Yes, that's correct. Unfortunately the climate here in northern California isn't as hot as needed for me to run 5w-40, so I have to stick to the recommended 0w-40. This makes it kind of hard since the only two I found that were LL-01 approved were the Motul 8100 x-max and the BMW 0w40 (discontinued?).

For now I've been happy with Mobil 1 0w40 European Car Formula. It does burn a bit though.

[AHall]

I do not understand the cause of the failure. Did the car have issues before this catastrophic failure? Had the engine been modified or car tuned? The car has rev limiter so protection is there in the case of a mistake such as what you described. Mistakenly driving the car in manual instead of automatic is a easy mistake to make. I would think one would notice the car not shifting prior to redline though. Has the car been properly maintained? Seems odd.

[M5Rick]

The oil comparison charts can leave new owners of M's here and over the pond confused of what to use.
As far as the Castrol Edge 0W40 oil goes I see that it's LL01 rated here so suitable for US,but the 0W30 Edge is LL04 which is the rating that BMW recommend over here and lately use in service garages in the form of BMW packaged oil,which could very well be Castrol based..! it's mind boggling, that's what it says on the engine oil cap.
Mobil 1 0W40 must be LL04 (though it doesn't say on the now removed BMW rating on label) as it's classed as 'European formula' Longlife, some have said the engine clicks using this oil when starting up from cold so I'm sticking with mine.

[M5Rick]

Originally Posted by AHall

I do not understand the cause of the failure. Did the car have issues before this catastrophic failure? Had the engine been modified or car tuned? The car has rev limiter so protection is there in the case of a mistake such as what you described. Mistakenly driving the car in manual instead of automatic is a easy mistake to make. I would think one would notice the car not shifting prior to redline though. Has the car been properly maintained? Seems odd.

He said he kept it on the red line for about 10 seconds, even with limiter no engine can take that torture for that amount of time stuck in low gear.

[AHall]

Originally Posted by M5theonlyone

He said he kept it on the red line for about 10 seconds, even with limiter no engine can take that torture for that amount of time stuck in low gear.

Oh okay, I misunderstood. I took his comment as from standstill to redline was 10 seconds. Holding a car at redline for 10 seconds? :
I still find it hard to believe 10 seconds at redline would cause this unless there were other contributing factors.

[M5Rick]

Originally Posted by AHall

Oh okay, I misunderstood. I took his comment as from standstill to redline was 10 seconds. Holding a car at redline for 10 seconds? :
I still find it hard to believe 10 seconds at redline would cause this unless there were other contributing factors.

With 32 valves,chain drive cams and twin turbos there's more to break.. the start to redline would take a second in first gear.

[santamonica00]

Okay but the most important question: did insurance pay for this?! And what's the cost?

I know you're in the U.K. so insurance may be different but I'd be interested to hear. 😁

[AHall]

Make sure they change all those hoses and any vacuum lines while the engine is out with high quality hoses and lines.

[Mjansari]

Originally Posted by santamonica00

Okay but the most important question: did insurance pay for this?! And what's the cost?

I know you're in the U.K. so insurance may be different but I'd be interested to hear. 😁

Cost me 10k (British pounds) / about. 14k in US dollars

[Mjansari]

Originally Posted by AHall

Make sure they change all those hoses and any vacuum lines while the engine is out with high quality hoses and lines.

Yes all the hoses are being replaced, pick the car up this Friday, can’t wait

[Mjansari]

What do you make of this article

[technician117]

Originally Posted by M5theonlyone

The oil comparison charts can leave new owners of M's here and over the pond confused of what to use.
As far as the Castrol Edge 0W40 oil goes I see that it's LL01 rated here so suitable for US,but the 0W30 Edge is LL04 which is the rating that BMW recommend over here and lately use in service garages in the form of BMW packaged oil,which could very well be Castrol based..! it's mind boggling, that's what it says on the engine oil cap.
Mobil 1 0W40 must be LL04 (though it doesn't say on the now removed BMW rating on label) as it's classed as 'European formula' Longlife, some have said the engine clicks using this oil when starting up from cold so I'm sticking with mine.

I've been running the M1 0w-40 Euro formula in my M5 for about 2 years/27k miles now. As another data point, I don't get any tick from my engine (at 78k now). It seems like after each oil change the engine uses less and less oil. I recently ticked over 3k miles into this interval and have only used 1/4 quart. I know it's too little data to make any conclusions, just saying I've had great luck with this oil so far. It might be a tad thick for my climate in winter, but the car is parked in a heated garage at night (I use my workshop almost everyday, keep it set at 50F overnight).

I am be no means an oil expert, but I have done some legitimate research over the years from multiple reputable sources. There's really no reason anyone should be running a "5w" oil unless your cold start temps are over like 90-100F in the morning. As we know, cold start is the worst time for the engine.

[M5Rick]

Originally Posted by technician117

I've been running the M1 0w-40 Euro formula in my M5 for about 2 years/27k miles now. As another data point, I don't get any tick from my engine (at 78k now). It seems like after each oil change the engine uses less and less oil. I recently ticked over 3k miles into this interval and have only used 1/4 quart. I know it's too little data to make any conclusions, just saying I've had great luck with this oil so far. It might be a tad thick for my climate in winter, but the car is parked in a heated garage at night (I use my workshop almost everyday, keep it set at 50F overnight).

I am be no means an oil expert, but I have done some legitimate research over the years from multiple reputable sources. There's really no reason anyone should be running a "5w" oil unless your cold start temps are over like 90-100F in the morning. As we know, cold start is the worst time for the engine.

Where you are it can be quite cold I think you wrote, certainly the heated garage helps and your motor is happy on start-up. I agree with you about not using a 5W oil and go for the 0W every time that's unless you live in a mostly warm climate area.
Looking through those pics the engine looks great all newish and gleaming,I did notice a large can of Magnatec 5W30 oil there, hope that's not for the M!