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      05-17-2020, 10:30 PM   #1
x35250
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Drives: 2013 BMW M5, Monte Carlo Blue
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: NoVa

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DIY: DCT Oil Change (F10 M5)

I've only owned a BMW for about six months when I bought my used 2013 BMW M5, but I wanted to be a contributing member here to the best of my ability. Please let me know if I am missing anything here. Enjoy!

Disclaimer: Do this at your own risk. I did my best to get the right torque specs, but they could be wrong or outdated. Each member is responsible for their own safety and work quality.

PARTS NEEDED:

I highly recommend FCP Euro. They have a lifetime warranty for the purchaser, INCLUDING consumables and fluids. You DO have to keep all the original packaging/bottles and be prepared to ship it back when done. Some fluid may be burned off or consumed, but you will get refunded for at least any full containers of old/used fluid you send back.

- New oil pan (not necessary but good to replace)
- New oil drain plug (28107842383)
Caveat: Should be included if you buy a new pan.
- New oil fill plug (28107850241)
- 7 liters of the transmission fluid of your choice (for a full change with new pan and oil balancing via maintenance software)
Caveat: Only 5 liters needed if doing a partial fluid swap (not removing filters or oil pan)
- New side filter (filter, cap, C-clip)
- New suction filter (inside the oil pan)

TOOLS NEEDED:
- Torque wrench
- Socket wrench
- 8-mm socket (transmission cover / plastic under tray)
- 10-mm socket (heat shields)
- 8-mm hex bit (oil fill plug) (for torque wrench)
- 10-mm hex bit (oil drain plug) (for torque wrench)
- Snap ring pliers (90 degree turn) or needle nose pliers with a 90 degree turn)
- T30 screw bit (sump or oil pan, suction filter)(for torque wrench)
- Screw bit socket adapter (to use a screw bit and torque wrench)
- 6-mm hex key or Allen wrench (to remove/install oil pump intake - the white thing that blocks the suction filter inside the oil pan)
- ENET cable
- Maintenance software (to adjust oil level): https://store7439722.ecwid.com/2020-...sion-p83892009
- (Optional) Fluid transfer pump. I used a 2 gallong Motive Powerfill pump, which can be found here: 
Motive Products- PowerfillPro and Power Extractor- 2 Gallon (1745) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0119DHX7O..._XWFWEbVRDJQ5K
- (Optional) Air compressor with a bicycle valve port.


TIGHTENING TORQUE INFORMATION:  
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...ox-dkg/5X9XYyT


HELPFUL VIDEO:
 
- Shout out to THE MAN!
- I relied heavily on his video but wanted to provide the community with written guidance.


PROCEDURES:

1. Safely get vehicle up on jack stands, ramps, or a lift. Be sure the vehicle is as level as possible.

2. Remove transmission cover (10 x 8-mm screws).

3. Remove passenger side transmission shield (2 x 10-mm nuts). Remove the drivers side also if replacing the side filter.  Tightening torque will be 8 Nm, or 5.9 ft-lb. 

4. Loosen the upper fill plug (8-mm hex bit) on the DCT first. Why? If you drain the fluid first and have trouble removing the fill plug, you will be stuck without transmission fluid.  Fill plug tightening torque will 25 +/- 3 Nm, or 18.44 +/- 2.21 ft-lb.

5-A. Remove the lower drain plug (10-mm hex bit) and allow most of the transmission fluid to drain. Let drain until it only drips to a minimum. Take note, if possible, of how much fluid came out so you know how much needs to go on in.  I used a clear storage box and marked by gallons using an empty water jug. Two gallons are about 7.59 liters. Drain plug tightening torque will be 8 Nm, or 5.9 ft-lb.  It says it right on the OEM plug.

5-B. If you're not replacing the side filter, suction filter, or oil pan, skip to Step 13 but only use about 5 liters of fluid. Most fluid swap kits come with 5 liters.

6. Side filter removal. Use a pair of 90-degree snap ring or needle nose pliers to remove the C-clip that secures the filter in place. You may need to use a flat head screw driver to separate the filter. Take a note of how it should look.

7. Install the new side filter by pushing it in until it pops into place. Push in the new black filter cap. Reinstall the C-clip to secure the filter. Make sure the filter and cap are pushed in all the way in so the C-clip secures properly. There are grooves for the C-clip along the edge of the housing. If the C-clip is not in this groove, it can look correct but you WILL HAVE A MAJOR LEAK.

8. DCT oil pan removal. Undo the 14 bolts to remove the plastic oil pan. This step can be messy.

9. Remove the DCT suction filter from the DCT unit by removing 2 x T30 Torx screws. You will also need to remove the white plastic sump pump intake. Use the 6-mm hex or Allen wrench to remove the one black bolt that secures the intake.

10. With the suction filter removed, use a clean rag to clean off the reachable parts of the forks of the DCT and inspect. See the video.

11. Install a new suction filter and secure the 2 x T30 screws. Screw 1 should be tightened to 5 Nm, or 3.69 ft-lb. Screw 2 should be 8 Nm, or 5.9 ft-lb. Having the T30 bit and socket adapter will allow you to use a torque wrench. You can also tighten by feel, but I'm a bit OCD.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...parts/HQrqTEeo

12. Reinstall the DCT oil pan. Make sure the rubber gasket is aligned properly. The 14 x T30 bolts must be tightened in a specific order to prevent leaks.  Tightening torque for these bolts are 10 +/- 1 Nm, or 7.38 ft-lb. Sequence below.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...x-dkg/HdNFXKAG

13. Reinstall the oil drain plug (10-mm hex) to 8 Nm, or 5.9 ft-lb.  Seems very low, but remember the sump is plastic.

14. Pour 7 L of transmission fluid in the fluid transfer pump and set it up for the first filling.  Instructions for using a power filler are here: 
https://www.motiveproducts.com/pages...l-instructions

I recommend using a fluid transfer pump because you only have about 10 minutes to do the second part of the filling process. I did not use my compressor because the tank was leaking air at the gauge. Hand pumping the oil worked perfectly so a compressor is not necessary. You'll see in 15-B why time is a factor.

15-A. With the car off, fill the transmission until fluid starts to drip out of the oil fill hole.  You should get about 5 L in.  Most people will just stop at this point and do more frequent fluid changes.  BMW says lifetime, but most reputable independent shops recommend doing a complete oil, filter, and sump (oil pan) change every 50k-60k miles.  

If you stop at 15-A, I recommend replacing the transmission fluid at 25k-30k mile intervals instead because you will be diluting the DCT with about 1.5-1.9 L of old fluid.  15-B below will get you to about 6.5 to 6.9 L total.  Others have said it takes about 10 minutes to get to 40 degrees C, so you could probably get by without the program.

15-B. Close the oil fill plug to about 25 Nm, or 18.44 ft-lb.  You'll have to take the plug off again soon, so eyeballing it is fine.

Connect a laptop to the OBD port using the ENET cable and start the shop program.

With the ignition off, run the initial vehicle test to establish a connection. This may take about 5-10 minutes.

Then,

OPEN OPERATION

VEHICLE MANAGEMENT -> SERVICE FUNCTIONS -> POWER TRAIN -> DKG TRANMISSION CONTROL -> ADJUSTMENT -> OIL BALANCING -> CONTINUE

Follow the procedures given in the program, which are:
- Check "engine running" condition.
- Parking lockout pawl is automatically engaged.
- Transmission fluid temperature readout.
- Operator raises the engine speed.  The engine speed must remain above 2,000 rpm for 1 minute to ensure even distribution of the fluid within the transmission units.
- Check to determine whether accelerator pedal is depressed.  The accelerator pedal must not be depressed from this point onward.
- Automatic limitation of system pressure, activation of maximum cooling and engagement of first gear.
- Carry out fluid-balance compensation by following repair instructions.  Open fluid-balance screw (oil fill plug).  Overfill transmission, if no fluid emerges with balance conditions present.  Allow fluid to bleed from transmission.  Reclose fluid-balance screw at fluid temperature above 30 degrees C but never exceed 40 degrees C before the fluid-balance screw is closed. (Wait until at least 32 degrees C). Otherwise, the unit might not be filled adequately!
- Complete the service function by depressing the brake pedal lightly, then hold down the brake to end process.
- Shut off the vehicle.

16.  Tighten the oil fill plug to 25 +/- 3 Nm, or 18.44 +/- 2.21 ft-lb.

17.  Reinstall both transmission shields (2 x 10-mm bolts per side).  Tighten the bolts to 8 Nm, or 5.9 ft-lb.

18.  Reinstall the transmission cover (10 bolts). 

19.  Lower the car.  Warm it up and look for any leaks.  As a precaution, put a clean piece of cardboard, paper, or tarp to look for any leaks overnight for several days of use.  If you see fresh drippings, you'll have to identify where it is coming from and top off any lost fluid.

20.  Drink your adult beverage of choice for a job well done!
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