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      05-20-2018, 11:10 PM   #23
ddiimmaa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by khanyam4 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ddiimmaa View Post
Hi, thanks for the rep, it was a bitch to get this done I do have the LCI Xenons available if interested. I put them up here and on ebay. they are taking up space in my garage full set with 19k on the car. If you take on the adventure for LED.. I paid 2800 for mine and that was a steal, I think there is a member selling his allmotor2000? might work a deal with him for those.
Base on your experience do you think it would be easier to go from xenon to xenon? I really like the lci xenon too.
from what I read and found, it's a changing of pinout on the headlight plug, and coding. If you reach out to Marius, tagged in the thread he ca. pull the wiring diagram for your car, and I can give you my vin so you can compare them and see where the difference is. Based on what has been stated before its easier than running new wiring and taking dash trunk etc apart. but you still have to remove front bumper and wheel well covers to get new lights in and out..

"From hallogen headlight to LCI Xenon (not AHL)
2 - 2
3 - 3
6 - 6
9 - 5
10 - 8
11 - 7
12 - 1

then add extra GND to pin 4

After that take out 2 pins from FRM and join them together into one pin (Y connection)
(pin 4 - A58*2b) and (pin 6 - A58*1B) to FRM pin 41 (A58*2B)"

there's a few other threads on it, so doable and definitely simpler and close to half the cost of going to LED..
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      02-08-2019, 12:53 AM   #24
04blackcrewcab
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Looking at doing this exact upgrade. I’ve got a 2015 LCI with OEM HIDs. Basically the same setup you had. Can you elaborate on the necessary coding you had to do? I’m familiar with coding E series chassis but not so much the F series yet.

Thanks!
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      08-02-2019, 01:04 AM   #25
mikekilpatrick
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Very nice DIY! Now, can you do a 4 zone climate control as well as a M5 Merino Seat retrofit please.

FYI, to anyone thinking of doing a Comfort seat retrofit, F10 Seats from 07/2013 or later WILL NEVER FIT ANY F10 of earlier years even though they are shown as compatible. In 07/2013 BMW NARROWED the seats rails by 1.5 inches making them impossible to fit to Pre LCI.

I have a sweet set of Merino Leather seats with 15k miles on them if someone wants to fit to 07.2013 or later. Lol
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      08-12-2019, 07:22 AM   #26
marclind
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First of all.
Congratulations to a very detailed and helpfull guide.

Im going to do this upgrade and have bought a pair of OEM ledīs to my car.

Iīve been working with cars my whole life but electrical systems is not my cup of tea.

What is the difference between a LCI to led and a pre-LCI (with xenons) to led?

My e-mail is my username + @hotmail.com
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      11-26-2019, 04:44 PM   #27
german80
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Bmw F46 halogen to led

Hello,

Can anyone help me with electric schemes on F46!

I am on swap halogen headlight to LED headlights.

I can't understand how to connect pins 9 and 10.

With all other pins seams everything clear, just swap location in terminals.

P.S.

This is info from another forum on retrofit halogen headlight to LED on F45 almost same way:

For the LED headlights themself you don't need to run wires (except one ground), you can use the wires already there, just swap the locations on connector and BDC. Remove the wires from the connector that you don't need and tape them to the cable bundle. (I have cut them in different lengths and taped them to the cable bundle so they'll never touch).

Here is the full pinout:

LED Headlights ---------------------------
Lamp Right:
- Pin 1: Indicator (already correct)
- Pin 2: Ground (already correct)
- Pin 3: TO FUSEBOX Z7 CON8 PIN 6 (20A) (use an existing 2,5mm2 for this)
- Pin 4: Run a wire to a nearest ground collection point. There is on near the headlight where all ground (brown) come together.
- Pin 8: BDC CON4 PIN 53
- Pin 9: BDC CON8 PIN 44 (CAN H)
- Pin 10: BDC CON8 PIN 43 (CAN L)

Lamp Left
- Pin 1: Indicator (already correct)
- Pin 2: Ground (already correct)
- Pin 3: TO FUSEBOX Z7 CON8 PIN 5 (20A) (use an existing 2,5mm2 for this)
- Pin 4: Run wire to a nearest ground collection point. There is on near the headlight where all ground (brown) come together.
- Pin 8: BDC CON4 PIN 54
- Pin 9: BDC CON8 PIN 44 (CAN H)
- Pin 10: BDC CON8 PIN 43 (CAN L)
Attached Images
   
Attached Images
File Type: pdf Halogen headlights.pdf (63.5 KB, 13 views)
File Type: pdf K-CAN3 bus connection.pdf (46.0 KB, 12 views)
File Type: pdf LED headlight.pdf (55.9 KB, 16 views)
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      02-13-2020, 10:02 PM   #28
F10Jefe
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HID-to-LED Light Conversion

Quote:
Originally Posted by ddiimmaa View Post
I did a ton of reading and wasn't able to find a complete write up anywhere. So after a bunch of research and hitting dead ends, annnd multiple people that didn't know what they were talking about.. its done. It was actually not too bad but frustrating it took this long to get here.

Shout out to a few people that helped. us_matrix marius76

Obligatory before / after picture first.

Before:


After:




First step: Wiring - Not plug and play and for what its worth this was done for LCI only. Pre LCI was and is do-able with some module changes as well.

Unplug your battery! You will see why.

You will need to obtain wiring diagram for your car and one for one that has the LED's in the same year.

For me I would have needed 2 wiring changes PER headlight. Pin 5 and Pin 3 on the headlight socket.
Left
Right
My car however based on wiring diagram was already pre-wired for Pin5 ( we tested this by pulling out two fuses in the trunk (Fuse 127 10AMP and Fuse 108 10AMP - once each fuse was pulled power to R/L headlights went out respectively). However I was missing the "power" wire needed for Pin 3 on the headlight harness to work. In my case Pin 3 of the R/L headlight harness terminated at FRM A58*2B Pin 6 and FRM A58*3B Pin 38. Pin 3 was the thicker yellow wire with the green stripe.

If you never worked with Pins before ( I have not ) Jump to 3:40 of Brian's video
.


Essentially what was needed was a new power wire for the LED's and a 15AMP fuse on each.

What I had to do was run a new wire from the front fuse box and run an identical wire from the rear fuse box. Instead of running it all the way to the headlight itself and passing through firewall and replacing the existing pin 3 wire you are joining the newly run wires to the existing wire that terminated at the FRM and from there you are not touching the existing headlight socket.

So.. Here we go:
Remove all trunk trim, floor liner, side trim, trunk "sill" trim. This exposes the rear fuse panel and associated channel to guide wires through.

@Marius76 - made me the wires with the OEM clips.
You could go with tap a fuse system here, but I wanted to go as OEM as possible. He also performed the coding and was super helpful throughout the process! I owe you a beer and learned a lot through out so thank you.

-

Rear fuse box - Fuse 172 15 AMP Fuse.

In my case BMW already gave me a blank fuse too! Saved me 35 cents!


You have to take this clip out and remember the position and then attach the "fuse holder end" into the clip. It should snap right in.

Alternatively - you could use an add a fuse kit.
- I chose not to since I wanted a factory look. and Marius had made me a quality wire.

I then routed the cable using the factory wiring routes.
Through the trunk channel:


Removed the rear seat. The Passenger side rear seat trim.



I then guided the wiring along the passenger side following existing wiring and used zips to attach it too. There is a shroud between the rear and front seats that you can use an electricians guide to push the wire into. Do not try to remove the B pillar interior trim its not needed just follow the floor and you will see what I mean.

PS.. the door sills clips at least for me - were not meant to be removed and no matter how carefully I pried, I ended up breaking the clips from the door sill trim and had to buy replacement trim.




Moving on..





Which then brings you the front foot well.

At this point - Remove the trim above the glove box.
Remove the airbag / and foot well cover assembly underneath the glove box.
Remove the glove box and Right side foot well trim.

I'm not religious but at this point if you aren't used to seeing your vehicle interior in this condition pray to the car gods that you don't F up...

There are all sorts of small clips and wires along the way from lights, airbags DVD players etc that will need to be removed. I didn't take pictures of all of it but plenty of youtube videos on "remove or replace X that walk you through it"



You now leave the 1st cable you ran and tidy that up for a moment and start work on cable #2.

Cable #2 needs to connect to compartment fuse box F57 it is also 15A. Although removed BMW gave me that one already as well! Another .35 cents saved!



This is a bit of a pain. Essentially remove everything that is plugged into it from the wiring on the left and wiring on the right. There is a retainment screw at the bottom of this fuse box, unscrew it. Now there is a metal clip on the left top of this fuse box that hold the whole thing in place. The box has two knobs one on the top left and right side of it. The right side knob plugs into a socket on the side, while the left knob is held in by a clip. You have the pull the clip to the left in order to release ( Pull hard ) and at the same time pull down and to the right on the fuse box to pull it out. I forgot to take a picture of this in the back but its the same concept as before. Find the socket that corresponds to the pin and plug your wire in there and then re-assemble it.


You will now have two wires - hanging like so.. Mark the other end of the wire to identify which one is which you will need that for the following steps.

I again zip tied them to existing wiring and then guide them through using the small electricians guide into the drivers side foot well.




From here its playing with the FRM. - At this point my phone died

You have to release the FRM module wires. You need to disassemble the drivers side foot airbag and cover panel(torx screws), the trim that covers the hood release ( held in by clips and two Philips screws) and the drivers side door sill cover to release the FRM trim.

Once there you gain access to your "FRM" module.


From here its finding the correct and corresponding pins and connecting your newly made wires with the existing.



Tucking everything in and then buttoning it back up.

Now we turn to the outside..

I sourced a set of Adaptive LEDs locally from a 550 with all modules tabs intact and was complete set. Cost was 2800$. - I hope to recover some / most of that with the sale of my HIDS. ( at least I tell that to myself..)

Remove both wheel well shrouds. Remove the bumper. Its not that hard took about an hour to pull off. - YouTube if needed. Also you absolutely need a 90 degree socket adapter. There is no way you are doing any of this without one.

There is one wire on the passengers side for the sensors that you have to be careful of. I found it was easier to unclip it while bumper was still on and reach in through the wheel well.

The lights have 2 bolts up top and two bolts in back that hold them in.

The final bolt is hidden. and needed extensions and 90 degree to get to. Complete and major PITA!





Lights in - Using the same OEM connectors.
Use some painters tape while fitting not to scratch up the front quarters..







Coding:




Dry Fitting bumper - don't tighten down the bolts on lights until you have the bumper back in place. You will need to adjust.


Voila...




If you want High Beam assist and do not have drivers assist package - you will need KAFAS/KAFAS 2, and a new windshield. - I did not do this (yet).
Nice write up. Please check your pm.
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